Need 2 barrel Help! Videos included...
#1
Need 2 barrel Help! Videos included...
I have a 302/AT, it starts great and idles fine, but in first gear it stumbles and "chugs" when starting from a stop. Once it gets going it runs great. I have been trying to adjust the carb idle adjustment screws but they seem to make little to no change in the idle. I screwed the right one completely closed and no change.
#2
There is a ton of information on this site for the carbs. Go into advanced search and search for 2100 or 2150. Your carb is one of those. I think you are adjusting one thing and looking for it to affect another.. You might also find that your carb is getting worn out and causing vacuum leaks. Best to search, read and get to work diagnosing it.
#4
#5
Sounds like it's time for a rebuild kit , idle screw it all the way and black plug is what i am going by. Those carbs are pretty simple made and easy to rebuild if a kit will take care of it. If it's been beat on with a hammer like i have found them after somebody thought that would fix it , then it's time for a new carb.__JIM__
#7
A rebuilt carb is a good thing but don't expect it to run like a top out of the box. They are rebuilt and adjusted to run on multiple applications like a 289 Mustang all the way to a 390 in an F250.
Gonna need a manual and go step by step through the tuning/adjustment procedures.
The typical starting point is 2.5 turns out on the mixture screws, 1/8-inch space btwn the choke plate at full cold. Float level is application-specific.
..... blackened plugs looks like it's waaay too rich and bogging at take-off....turning the mixture screws in leans out the mixture... both have to be turned in and out exactly the same... always.
Gonna need a manual and go step by step through the tuning/adjustment procedures.
The typical starting point is 2.5 turns out on the mixture screws, 1/8-inch space btwn the choke plate at full cold. Float level is application-specific.
..... blackened plugs looks like it's waaay too rich and bogging at take-off....turning the mixture screws in leans out the mixture... both have to be turned in and out exactly the same... always.
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#9
to clarify a few things, the 2 adjustment screws on the front of the carb down at the bottom are mixture screws. They adjust the amount of fuel delivered to the jets. They are not idle adjustment screws. Idle adjustments are made on the linkage are of the carb. Curb idle on the drivers side, fast idle on passenger side. I will see if I can find a diagram.
#11
I am by far no expert on this subject, but my understanding is when you adjust them all the way in, this should stop fuel completely, there for killing the engine. If it is not doing that, I would return it.
Some more info and parts pages for you
Ford 2100/2150 - The Carburetor Doctor
Motorcraft 2150 2V Carburetor
one of those places sells service manuals. There is a link on here for a service manual for a 2100.
What carb do you have?
Some more info and parts pages for you
Ford 2100/2150 - The Carburetor Doctor
Motorcraft 2150 2V Carburetor
one of those places sells service manuals. There is a link on here for a service manual for a 2100.
What carb do you have?
#13
I pulled a spark plug, and its completely fouled (my third set in two months).
Right now from your video sounds like it's missing on one cylinder ..
What is the condition of plug wires ?
What is the condition of distributor cap and rotor ?
What is the condition of the plugs ?
#14
Carbs been in about 2 months but I have been working on other issues (fuel, electrical, gauges, etc) it's only run for a few hours.
The plug wires look.
I recently replaced cap, rotor, points, condenser.
Plugs are carbon fouled I think because of choke issues I have been dealing with (missing choke tubes). I currently have the choke disconnected.
The plug wires look.
I recently replaced cap, rotor, points, condenser.
Plugs are carbon fouled I think because of choke issues I have been dealing with (missing choke tubes). I currently have the choke disconnected.