How to get hot defrost faster?
#1
How to get hot defrost faster?
Hey guys, like a lot of the U.S. my temps have been down below freezing lately and I know it will be for most of my winter. Every winter I need to let my 97 run for at least 10-15 minutes before I can get any warm air out of the defroster. And the colder it is the longer I have to let it run, or I'm freezing my @$$ off all the way to town with a steamed up windshield.
Is there anything I can do that can make my defroster produce warm air quicker? I've been told maybe I can get a different thermostat that will help?
Is there anything I can do that can make my defroster produce warm air quicker? I've been told maybe I can get a different thermostat that will help?
#5
#6
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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A 460 should heat up a lot faster than that. I think you should start by making sure the heater core isn't blocked.. pull the hoses off and force some water through it with a garden hose, and then open up the heater box and make sure there isn't any debris in there preventing the diverter door from fully closing. If all that checks out make sure the motor has a 192 or 195 deg thermostat in it and if you still get no heat sell the POS and buy a 302 truck. LOL
#7
I know what you are going through. I had a freezing cold heater and a iced over windshield for years till I got rid of the manual clutch fan and did an electric fan conversion. Now the radiator gets warm in the winter times and the heater blows at a decent temperature. It still not does get super hot. I would have to put cardboard over the grill most likely to get it blowing hot.
I use a 200 degree temperature thermostat it had very little effect on the heater. All it did was make the motor run a little warmer. I think the water bypasses the motor and uses the warm water in the radiator on my 302. Maybe some one else can chime in to confirm that.
I use a 200 degree temperature thermostat it had very little effect on the heater. All it did was make the motor run a little warmer. I think the water bypasses the motor and uses the warm water in the radiator on my 302. Maybe some one else can chime in to confirm that.
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#8
A 460 should heat up a lot faster than that. I think you should start by making sure the heater core isn't blocked.. pull the hoses off and force some water through it with a garden hose, and then open up the heater box and make sure there isn't any debris in there preventing the diverter door from fully closing. If all that checks out make sure the motor has a 192 or 195 deg thermostat in it and if you still get no heat sell the POS and buy a 302 truck. LOL
Anyone know where I could get some inserts to use on my current grill?
LOL, on the last comment, I plan on having this truck for a long time. Since it's a lot further from a POS now then it was when I bought it.
#10
The heater core in 460's bypasses the thermostat entirely.
The thermostat won't open until 195* anyhow.
Look at the plumbing and you will see the rad is not even in the heater loop.
He is trying to heat up 700# of cast iron.
It doesn't happen instantly.
The best way to warm it up quickly is to drive it as soon as the oil is circulating.
#11
Won't do ANYTHING to get heat faster.
The heater core in 460's bypasses the thermostat entirely.
The thermostat won't open until 195* anyhow.
Look at the plumbing and you will see the rad is not even in the heater loop.
He is trying to heat up 700# of cast iron.
It doesn't happen instantly.
The best way to warm it up quickly is to drive it as soon as the oil is circulating.
The heater core in 460's bypasses the thermostat entirely.
The thermostat won't open until 195* anyhow.
Look at the plumbing and you will see the rad is not even in the heater loop.
He is trying to heat up 700# of cast iron.
It doesn't happen instantly.
The best way to warm it up quickly is to drive it as soon as the oil is circulating.
I still think trying a piece of cardboard along with driving the truck right after starting is worth a shot. If nothing else, the OP can drop off the cardboard at the recycling center on the way home if it does not help any.
#12
I appreciate the input. I have not had a 460 equipped truck since 1988. That truck was a 1978 F250!
I still think trying a piece of cardboard along with driving the truck right after starting is worth a shot. If nothing else, the OP can drop off the cardboard at the recycling center on the way home if it does not help any.
I still think trying a piece of cardboard along with driving the truck right after starting is worth a shot. If nothing else, the OP can drop off the cardboard at the recycling center on the way home if it does not help any.
#13
I'm not sure this will help, but use the MAX AC setting when just started. All other selections pull from the outside and just makes it longer as your pulling cold air in, and over the heater core.
I started this last year and helped with the cab heat way better. It may also help with getting the windshield to warm up as the cab will be warmer and then you can select defrost to finish up your morning commute. Usually I can about 4 cans of spray deiecer on hand, 2 in each vehicle and give them a light spray for heavy frost and for the occasional ice and snow storms. Well worth there the $$, especially if the truck door and handles are completely frozen over. Note, that won't help if the cans are in the vehicle..lol. I forgot to add that I keep a can under the kitchen sink for the frozen door and door handles.
I started this last year and helped with the cab heat way better. It may also help with getting the windshield to warm up as the cab will be warmer and then you can select defrost to finish up your morning commute. Usually I can about 4 cans of spray deiecer on hand, 2 in each vehicle and give them a light spray for heavy frost and for the occasional ice and snow storms. Well worth there the $$, especially if the truck door and handles are completely frozen over. Note, that won't help if the cans are in the vehicle..lol. I forgot to add that I keep a can under the kitchen sink for the frozen door and door handles.
#14
I'm with timbersteel on this. The defrost setting runs the A/C (provided you have that option and it's working), but also pulls in the outside air, so it's 2 on 1 against your coolant that isn't warm yet. MAX A/C is "max" because it closes the outside vent door, recirculating the air inside the cab, so you're adding heat to air that's already been slightly warmed, as long as you have the temperature **** set all the way hot.
Another option is to leave everything off for a few minutes, so that the heater core isn't acting like a second radiator, pulling heat from the engine while it's warming up. It will still radiate some heat, but less than if you have the blower fan running.
Jason
Another option is to leave everything off for a few minutes, so that the heater core isn't acting like a second radiator, pulling heat from the engine while it's warming up. It will still radiate some heat, but less than if you have the blower fan running.
Jason
#15
X3
I don't have ac but I put my controls to "off"
This moves the blend door so there is no outside air coming in and cab air is recirculated.
Same as Max AC.
Cardboard may save you if the thermostat has failed.
Undercooling may push the system temp up past 195* the thermostat is set for.
But it will do nothing to get 195* coolant to the heater core faster than having no cardboard.
Just look at a 460 water pump.
Both the heater hoses connect there.
I don't have ac but I put my controls to "off"
This moves the blend door so there is no outside air coming in and cab air is recirculated.
Same as Max AC.
Cardboard may save you if the thermostat has failed.
Undercooling may push the system temp up past 195* the thermostat is set for.
But it will do nothing to get 195* coolant to the heater core faster than having no cardboard.
Just look at a 460 water pump.
Both the heater hoses connect there.