Alright group I searched before asking couldn't find much (search skills are a bit rusty) if there is already a thread by all means post it up.

I'm looking into setting up a bronco for an all around rig hunting, trailing, sand, and obviously still want to keep it on asphalt where i don't have to load it on a trailer to get it to the destination. Year range of bronco I'm looking at is 92-96 with a 351 in it. What would anyone recommend on lift if any at all? I'd be planning on running either 33s or 35s. Some of the trails require some good flexing. I've got plenty of recovery gear from my current bronco so i don't need to worry about that.

 

buy mine its exactly what you want haha

actually I would recommend going with 4" suspension running cut/turned beams and deaver coils, exentended radius arms will be a must. trim fenders some or move front axle forward to get 35"s on there. This keeps COG low and clearance on the diffs. I slightly overgeared to 4.88's and love the setup. does everything I ever needed and out in the sand it really performs. also with the 4.88's it will allow for better creeping along the roads quietly when out hunting. I have an aussie locker up front and open in the back which I planned on going with an E locker being that it behaves like a LS when not engaged.

going SAS wouldn't be a bad idea either and would cost the same as a good lift in my opinion.

 

As soon as I get rid of mine I'll be in the market for one haha

I'd actually been looking into a 4" lift depending on the bronco I don't really want to trim fenders unless they are starting to rust. Gotta keep the body as natural as can be since there ain't much of them left... I do have a brand new set of 33s im keeping from my current bronco i'll run them for a long while. (Just getting ideas ahead of time to know how much i need to set aside haha) And i had thought about 4.10 gears with a detroit locker and running 35s.... Think the 4" with 33s do well for time being?

 

35's and 410's will be under geared. you have an OD trans in really every bronco from 90 - 96 so to much gear is better than not enough.

I get 10/14 city/hwy with my setup and bronco weights close to 6000lbs.

 

Yea thats very true i forget about that. Hhhmmm may run 4.56 or 4.88s then. I don't plan on ever going larger than 35s. Would moving the axle forward 1" be enough? I'd be planning on installing the cut/turned beams and lift at the same time and if i have enough probably install the gearing also...

 

Please explain the cut/turned beams, Iv'e not heard of this mod yet. I ran 33x12.50s on my '91 with a mild built 5.0 for alot of miles, on and off road. The stock 3.50 gears left me wanting at least some 4.10s. Especially when pulling a trailer or creeping around off road. 4" lift and 33's work good and required no trimming or clearancing on my rig. 33's fit fine on my '78 with no lift as well.

 

From my understanding the cut and turn beam help your alignment stay proper with a lift kit give better axle clearance. (could be totally wrong) not only that but from what i've read its also more of a high speed / desert setup... but like i said thats only stuff i've read I'm just entering the modified 4x4 world I've always had 4wd trucks and now i want to mildly modify one.... My 89 fits 33s no problem with a sagging stock suspension and only rub under extreme flex. We have a lot of washed out arroyos in this area after the rain and most vehicles cant get thru if your wheelbase isnt short.

 

Cut and turn is where you correct the suspension geometry so you can use lift springs without the lift brackets. You pull the tops of the tires in, or more specifically you move the bottoms out, and looking from the side of the truck you push the top ball joint rearward. You get great handling and long suspension travel, but it's a lot of work and not cheap.

1980-96 F150/Bronco 4WD Suspension
?80-?96 4WD F150 »
Ford Bronco Long Travel Basics ? Don?t Scrap That TTB

First, take care of any maintenance items that need to be done, including replacing shocks and bushings. It may not be glamorous but it makes a difference when you truck runs under it's own power and stops and turns.

Second, plan a budget. Tires are going to be a big part of it. 31's will work great on a stock height truck and 33's work great with some fender cutting. I'm not sure if there are cutout flairs and how much they clear, but it may be possible to get 35's without a suspension lift. Above 35's and you're pushing the 1/2 ton axles too far for something you're going to play with. Mall crawler? Fine, but actual off road truck no.

Gears. With a 351w 4.10 gears and 33's would work great. They'd also work with 35's and 31's. Sure 4.56's or 4.88's would be advantageous, but 4.10's are the most versatile IMO. So now we're talking gears, you'll want traction. Some form of selectable locker is the best for a DD, street going truck. Air lockers are one type.

This is a good start and you can add things like lift kits later.

 

That's typically the first thing i do when i pick up a used vehicle. Run a full maintenance spa threw it. Replacing anything from bushings, shocks, battery, cables, etc....

Like i stated this is more for a future reference to have knowledge and ideas of what can be done. I have a brand new set of 33s I am taking off my current bronco and keeping to install on the next one but would like to install 35s when they have expired. Would really like to know how much forward to set front axle on a 4" lift so 35s can clear without having to fender cut. Don't really want to do any fender cutting unless there is rust needed to be removed. Broncos aren't seen as much anymore so would like to keep its body as original as i can. Besides lift kits, gear kits, lockers, that takes a bit of money to work up to this isn't something thats going to be done with in a week of obtaining the bronco, more like a year to a couple of years span.... then you add your bumpers, new rubber, and misc mishaps and you have invested an arm, leg, kidney, and most of all your heart into it.

 

I don't think it's the axle that needs to be moved, but the front bumper. You need to space out or cut the front bumper 1-2" to fit larger tires. 33's on stock rims will fit but may rub and you'll want to space the bumper out at least 1 inch. 35x12.50's on 8" rims work with a 4" lift. Wider tires don't.

In the rear you'll want to do a shackle flip or add-a-leaf, no blocks. That and some lockers will work wonders. I'd think about aftermarket axles and maybe convert to the 9" ends. You can't swap a 9" in because it won't have the tone ring for the computer / speedometer. Pre-92 trucks can get away with it and you only loose rabs, but the later trucks need it for the electronic speedo.

With the stock truck on 33's I'd add a winch first. Then worry about the suspension, lockers, etc. You'll get further than you think with a stock truck if you learn how to wheel correctly and when you do get stuck you can pull yourself out. Then you can address the issues you're having. You mentioned sand, so maybe going with a wider 33 with a 4" lift vs a 35 would be better. For a wide 35 you'll want a 6" lift and you're really pushing the stock axles.

 

you should be airing down when playing in the sand so a 12.5 wide tire is sufficient. moving the axle forward helps keep the tire away from the rear corner of the front fender. this occurs anytime our broncos are lifted. on that year bronco you only need to space the front bumper out if your running stock suspension and 33" tires.

I do agree with what was said above about learning to wheel with it fairly stock, running open diffs and some good tires you will be amazed at what you can with well planned lines on the trail. less chance of breaking things also.

 

Yea I've been wheelin with my current bronco but we've started to get to some trails that REQUIRE extra body and frame clearance or else we're just going to tear stuff up if we try to go with stock height. And i also get rear tire rub on my current bronco (stock height 33'sx12.5 on a 15x9 rim) under certain flex situations. Other than the tougher trails I've been able to do everything running stock.....

 

You could say I'm taking my '91 to the next level. Started by replacing the 5.0 to the 5.8, for now. I have gone from the E4OD trans to the NP435 with a twin stick shifter.I got rid of the 8.8 rear and ran a 9". Now I've installed a 10.25 Sterling, 4.56 gears and a Yukon zip locker. I am currently upgrading the front axle to the TTB Dana 50. Would like to have an air locker up front as well but still short the cash for that. Other additions to make wheeling more fun for me include on board air, custom front and rear bumpers with recievers for a Warn winch that is mounted on a cradle. Power for the winch is through 2 gauge welding lead and connects with a Bulldog coupler. To prevent a fire caused by a short I installed a winch isolator solenoid which kills power to all the winch connectors front and rear. When winching Chevys out of the ditches I needed to drag more then just the rear axle so I installed a Micon brake lock on the front axle and built a set of folding wheel chocks in case that isn't enough. Tires started at 31x 10.50 to 33x12.50s and with the new axles I will be running 315x65 r16s. Future mods include a 7.5L engine and swithching to a 6" lift. I'm trying to do these mods while keeping the body fairly stock and will be driving it 50 miles daily to work. I am doing the mechanicals myself. I'll let someone else restoer the seats for me.