I just bought a 1975 f250 supercab. I'm not sure what the motor size is.....these are the things I need help on because I'm new to the ford truck restoration and I'm not very mechanically inclined...but here goes.
1. Where do I find the motor size?
2. I have a 4 barrel carb on it....everyone tells me that's a problem. Is it really?
3. It was running until yesterday but i was driving it in the morning, when it started to sputter and couldn't get passed 10 miles an hour......took it to a local mechanic and he's having trouble getting the truck to run normal again ...

if anyone can help please chime in.....it's my o lyrics driver and I have no other transportation.
Taking the bus sucks cause I have to get up 2 1/2 hours early just to get to work on time....

Thank you all in advance.

 

Start with pics. Why are they saying the four barrel is the problem? Are they saying they are a problem in general, or is it just this particular carb? I could see where too big of a carb on a bone stock motor could be an issue. Really need more info. Pics of the truck and engine is a good start.

 

Thanks bud. I sure will....yes the motor I believe is stock. They are saying it's too much air for the truck. But I will post pics asap. Thank you.

 

Welcome to the forum.
You can decode the vin# to see what engine is supposed to be in it, but it may have been changed. If you could post some pics of under the hood, we can get a better idea of of at least which engine family it is.
Has he got it running again? There are many issues that it could be.
Carb needs adjusted or rebuilt?
ignition issues such as pick-up coil in the distributor, bad coil, bad ignition box, cap, rotor, plugs or wires.
Fuel issues such as a weak fuel pump, dry rotted rubber hose from the tank to the frame, clogged sock in the gas tank pick-up.

 

1. Engine Identification:

351C/M/400 335 series: 8 bolts in rectangular valve covers. Timing chain housing is part of block. Thermostat housing on block. Exhaust bolt holes diagonal.

351M/400 335 series: intake is 12.7" wide the 351C is narrow. The 351M and 400 are identical externally, only internal parts examination can tell them apart.

351W/302/5.0L 6 bolts on trapezoidal valve covers. Thermostat housing on intake. Exhaust bolt holes horizontal.

429/460 385 series: 7 bolts in rectangular valve cover
352/360/390/427/428 FE series: Intake goes under valve covers.

2. 4 bbl is not a problem, Ford put them lots of vehicles, sound like your's might need a rebuild or some adjustment done.

3. Sounds like a clogged fuel filter, at least that is what I would ck first. I'd get another mechanic.

A bus beats walking, can you catch a carpool ride/split gas with a co worker?

 

I am visualizing the dollar signs in that mechanics eyes over a cheap part and a 5 minute fix. These things are so dang simple that anyone with the will can figure out.

 

Welcome to FTE!

You bought a 40 year old F250 as your only transportation but "aren't very mechanically inclined"? Not beating up on you but that's asking for it.

 

Side thought...have you joined your state FTE chapter to get a hand? You might have a FTE member local and we are all good guys to help new folks.

Also go buy a cheap Chilton or Hayes manual to help get you started learning.

California, Northern Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

California, Southern Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

No better way to get 'mechanically inclined'. Buy a hayes and or a chilton manual and read everything that applies to you twice. Use the phrase "how do I fix my" when you google something and buy another dentside to keep the first on jealous/running. Enjoy the truck, todays lawnmowers are more complicated motor wise than your truck is.

ps. Buy bandaids

 

No doubt, I'm jus' Sayin'... It's going to take a while before it is ready for prime time.

 

. I assume it's a V8, not a 6-banger... prolly a '335-series' 351"M or 400"... try the forum here for your particular engine... where are you located?


. These trucks usually only came with a 2 bbl., so the 4 bbl. may be the problem, but not likely because it's a 4 bbl... unless overly small or huge... but it may be out of adjustment... as the other guys said, a real 'mechanic' should find it child's play to fix... the 4 bbl.s usually give better MPG with easy driving...


. If you have cold winter weather, it may freeze up if the carb. heater provisions weren't retained with the carb. swap...


. Actually, with a good tuneup, and anything else that needs fixing, your 40 year old truck should be as reliable as a stone...

 

"After a good tuneup, and anything else is fixed, it will be reliable."

Yeah, and if my Aunt had *****, she'd be my Uncle. The point being, it isn't reliable now it's his only ride and sounds like it may well leave him stranded and late for work.

 

. Actually, the point is they're rather basic and simple with cheap parts and are usually still very reliable after being touched by a good mechanic...

 

No, I can make my own points thanks. Let's welcome the guy to FTE, help him out as best we can recognizing a fixer upper may not be a good choice for sole transportation to work for the non-mechanically inclined.

 

First, welcome to FTE, lots of good knowledgeable people here.
IF your engine is original or a replacement that was same as the original it will be either a 300 cu in 6 cylinder, a 302 2bbl., a 360 2bbl., a 390 2 or 4 bbl., or a 460 4bbl.
Look at your VIN, the fourth digit is the engine code: B=300 6 cyl., G=302 2 bbl V8, Y=360 2bbl V8, H=390 2bbl, M=390 4bbl. and J=460 4bbl.
These trucks can be dependable but sometimes it takes work. When I used my '73 for my primary (only) transportation I drove it all over the country from Fla to Cali to Washington state and everywhere in between. I put an additional 235,000 miles on top of the 160,000 that was on it when I bought it. It only let me down twice, both wheel bearing related and both gave ample warning that I chose to ignore.
The first thing I would do is go through the obvious stuff, fluid and filter changes, tune up, carb rebuild (maybe), fuel pump (again, maybe), pull the wheels and check the brakes (including the flex. hoses), the u-joints, wheel bearings, hoses and belts.
These trucks can be a lot of fun to own and a great learning experience. Mechanically they are "dirt simple" and, if anything goes wrong, it will be much, much cheaper to fix than a late model "electronic" vehicle.
Also, check your distributor, '75 was the last year that Ford used a points style distributor. The electronic distributor was optional. If yours is electronic (Duraspark I) the control module is unique to '75 only and doesn't interchange with any other year.
Again, welcome to FTE, have fun with your truck, no better platform to learn mechanics than one of these.
P.S., a 4bbl carb on a stock motor is a bit much, but if you keep your foot out of it, it shouldn't cause any problems. I'm not too sure about your "mechanics" though.