+1
this is where id head.repack or replace as needed.the thread title popped wheel bearings into my thinker instantly.
timkin bearings.synthetic grease.get 'er done.

 

Throw the auto hub in the trash while you're in there, and install just about any brand of manual lockouts for any semblance of reliability. Auto's are a joke.

 

The only thing that makes me think it's not a wheel bearing is the lack if change with the test I did. I did the old steering wheel jerk to the side to shift the weight off one side of the truck to diagnose which wheel it was. But the sound didn't change at all. Does this kill the bearing theory or could it still be a bearing?

 

I absolutely plan to go with manual hubs while I'm in there.

 

If I can spin both tires by hand very easily, why wouldn't they both spin when I spin the driveshaft? I can see both u-joints turning and trying to engage the hubs, but only the right one engages enough to spin the wheel. Any idea why this is? I would think if it was due to a dragging brake, then I wouldn't be able to spin it by hand.

 

Ok so as I'm reversing directions, the hubs are engaging and disengaging, but is it normal to spin it and hit a wall? I spun it both directions as far as I could until it stopped. Then it was almost impossible to break it loose to turn it further that direction or back in the opposite direction.

 

when was the last time you inspected and re-packed them? if never or 100k then its due or over and your out nothing but maintenance if they're ok.
yeah lol.toss those auto/no lockers in the scrap pile while there.


because you don't have a limited slip/locker front diff.

tear into it and tell us whats wrong lol.there's no avoiding the work.get 'er done before you need new spindles too,if it's not too late.

 

I just picked up the truck with 80k miles so I can only assume they have not been replaced or repacked. When you say repacked, you mean with grease correct? Any preferred brand or type of grease?

 

I've always just used regular disk brake compatible wheel bearing grease, and replaced the oil seal while in there. Yes repack means force fresh grease into the bearing rollers, you can do this in the palm of your hand or use a bearing packer. These wheel bearings typically last a long time if you occasionally repack them. My originals had 210k or so and probably would have gone longer but I replaced them for peace of mind at the last service. If you do decide to replace the bearings, you'll need to drive the races out/in of the hub with either a brass punch & hammer or a press.

The rear diff can make some funky noises if it's in rough shape, and can make it feel like you have front end issues when in fact its a rear end problem. At a minimum, make sure it has enough fluid in it.

 

Thanks a bunch man

 

Fellas, I'm goin to get inner bearing, outer bearing, and races...is that correct? Is that the full list of parts to change front wheel bearings? Also, any need to change spindle bearings while I'm at it?

 

As was already said, that's exactly what open diffs do. They send the same torque to both sides. If that's enough to spin both tires, then both will spin. If not, one will spin twice as fast and the other will just sit there. (Actually I'm over simplifying, if there's more friction in the diff than in the "hard" tire it will spin both. But that's not very much, so often it will only spin one).

And it's not that the left hub isn't engaging enough to spin the tire. It's engaged, it's just that the open diff isn't sending enough torque to spin the tire.

I'm not sure I'm understanding you here. You are turning the driveshaft by hand but you can only turn it back and forth a little bit and when you hit the limit it's really hard to turn it back? Is that with at least one front tire in the air and the t.case in 2WD? You should be able to turn the driveshaft as long as you want like that (with the tire that's in the air spinning). If you can't then it sounds like something isn't right. Either something in the axle or something in the t.case isn't letting it move. But from what you've said in other posts (like the one above) it sounds like you can turn the driveshaft far enough to spin a tire. So I'm confused.


And on another note, auto hubs aren't the worst thing in the world. I've only had them on one truck, and I replaced them with manuals too, so I'm not saying they're the best thing either. They definitely add convenience. There are times backing into my driveway when I'd really like auto hubs because I don't need 4WD for more than about 20 feet once a day. The minus is that they are less reliable than manual hubs, but that's not saying that they are necessarily unreliable. Heck, you've got a 20 year old truck and they still seem to be working. Again, if you want to replace them, that's fine. I did too. But don't let anyone tell you you have to for typical use.

 

Also the inner grease seal.

Generally the spindle bearing is fine (it only spins when you're in 4WD so it doesn't get used much). As long as it's not dried out or rusty or anything I probably wouldn't.

And if you choose to replace the auto hubs with manual ones you'll need to use different spindle nuts. They show up as a conversion kit that is usually offered with the manual hubs, or you can buy them from any auto parts store, just making sure you get spindle nuts that are intended to go with manual hubs.

 

I can spin it enough to spin the wheel. But then, I can only turn it so far until it stops...maybe one or two revolutions of the wheels. Once it stops, I really have to give it a good hard turn to break it loose enough for it to turn again...whether it's turning it further in the same direction or back in the opposite direction. Once I spin the driveshaft enough to get the wheel turning, are you saying I shouldn't hit these "stopping points" and the driveshaft should spin freely all day long?

 

i have to disagree.if i had to pick a single item that defined the worst part to have ever been placed on the 9th generation f-series,the auto locking hub would be the first thing to come to mind.no other part placed on these trucks off the assembly line compare to they're weakness.
i bought my first 9th gen in '99 ( a 3 yr old '96) and in '99 those things hit the scrap heap after getting stuck for the first time.

that's right.that's your noise and that's your issue.you've got to tear into it and resolve this issue.when fixed,you'll have no resistance.be it the issue the junk hubs come apart in there and or cleaned out some bearings etc.it's got to get cleaned up.do yourself a favor and replace the junk hubs with manual lockers to avoid these issues in the future.