Seems I couldn't get a spark out of my 1950 8BA 6 volt F1 flathead Crap-O-Matic distributor. Everything I checked (coil, points, capacitor, cap, rotor) seemed fine. When I reached under the distributor, I could feel that the wire insulation is frayed bare where it comes out of the distributor housing. Probably from rubbing when the vacuum advance moved the wire around.

There really should be a rubber grommet in there or something to protect the wire. I know the part number for the wire (Ford 7RA-14302), and I know where to get it, but it looks simple enought for me to make one up with ring terminals crimped on each end.

My question is: Do I need to take the distributor out to get to it ? (I really don't want to do that, as I am not sure I won't screw up the timing in the process). Can I just take the points, capacitor, and points plate out and pull it out from the top, and then fish the new wire back in and connect both ends? If I do that I will figure out a grommet or something to protect the wire in the future.

I am going to be installing the Pertronix 1283P6 electronic ignition unit and Flame Thrower HV coil, so the points and condenser are going away anyway (but I will keep spare set in the glove box for insurance against the Pertronix taking a dump.

Can anyone help?

 

Unfortunately, the points plate can only be removed by driving the distributor drive gear off first.

Are you sure the part of the wire inside is bad? Most of these don't have the rubber grommet, they have a feedthru post, with fiber washers on each side to insulate it. No matter what, you need to pull the distributor. Once you do, you can likely undo the nut on the post underneath, and push the feedthru up underneath the plate and work it out of there. I believe there is a hole in the plate right above the feedthru for that purpose. Not as hard as you'd think, but not a job to try while leaning over the fenders.

 

If it is a temporary fix, I'd cut the terminal end off, slide a section of heat shrink tube over it and shrink it on, put a new terminal end on and good to go.

 

Thanks Ross,

Looking at it again, I am pretty sure that the previous owner may have removed that "thru post" and just ran the wire through the remaining hole without anything to protect it, or maybe the 1949 8BA dizzy didn't have that annoying through post at all. It is definitely bare wire right where it goes through the hole, and I think the wire is shorting against the distributor grounded metal housing. When I turn ignition on and push the points open I get a weak spark as long as the bare section of the wire isn't touching grounded metal parts.

Looking at the Pertronix instructions they are saying to remove the existing wire that runs from the distributor to the coil, to make a passageway for the Pertronix wires. In Pertronix step #10, it says to "Insert both wires through the hole in the distributor housing. Pull the (supplied) grommet into place. Make sure that the wires do not interfere with any moving parts".

I should have read the Pertronix instructions before I posted. I won't be needing to replace the old wire at all because the Pertronix has that wire going to the coil on it.

I may use the original wire to pull the new wires through after I disconnect it from its terminal near the capacitor, just to make it easier to fish it through.

After I get into it I will post some pictures if I can get a couple of the hole in the distributor.

Thanks,
Joe W

 

Hi Skalywag

I thought of that heat shrink option too. If I wasn't replacing the wire with the Pertronix module wire, that's exactly what I would have done. Probbly would have lasted longer than I would have too.

JW

 

Some distributors have a post through the housing and some have a grommet molded into the wire. A dab of RTV will serve to insulate the wire from the distributor case. I would guess that someone replaced the original wire with a common stiff light gauge wire and that is why it is fraying on the case. The wire you mention is very fine strand and needs to be installed so it flexes in a long arc when the breaker plate moves.

 

Well I think I really got it wrong, so just ignore my previous rantings. I am going to get under the truck tomorrow to look, but I think there is a stud, not a hole under the distributor housing as Ross said there would be. The connection is for the breaker plate ground wire. It is flexible braided copper inside the distributor, then a wire with ring tongue terminals on each end connects from that through stud to the + side of the coil (ground). So the wire grounding out cannot be the problem, since it is already ground.

I will check this out tomorrow, and report back what I find. I will take out the points and capacitor and see if there is a place to run the wires from the Pertronix module out of the distributor. I hope I have bought the right Pertronix kit.

Joe W

 

Joe, you're not considering changing to 12V?

 

I think you must have misunderstood my earlier post. What I call a "feedthru post" you're calling a stud. See the pic below. The T-headed post or stud goes thru the body of the distributor via insulating bushings and washers.

 

Ross,

That drawing really helps. If I understand the Pertronix instructions, they want me to remove the wire and the parts labeled 12233 and the nuts / lockwashers shown, which will leave a hole where those parts were. Then feed the two wires from the pertronix down that same path, using the rubber grommet they supplied with the kit. I am assuming that the parrt 12233 etc. are removable from the outside of the distributor.

Is the hole where the wire exits the one just above and to the right of the oil cup in the picture? If I do install the Pertronix, my one concern is being able to reinstall new mechanical points and condenser if the Pertronix fails. Not sure that will be doable if the distributor is modified in this way.

Also, do you know what oil and how much / how often the distributor needs to be oiled. I guess that's oil for the gear in the distributor shaft.

I might just install the new Pertronix coil first, and see how it runs with the points / capacitor, then think about putting in the Pertronix electronics later. They market this as "simple". I guess it is on most other distributors.

Thanks for your help

 

Have you pulled the distributor yet? I think it will be very clear what needs to be done if you have it in hand. No, the hole near the oil cup is not where the wires come out, it is where 12234 is sitting in the bottom of the body.

The oil is for the distributor shaft, there are bushings in the body it runs in. Should add a few drops of plain motor oil every 5,000 miles.

Pertronix installation is completely reversible, although on the side of the road you'd want to pull the dizzy out, for the same reasons: It's fast, and far easier to work on.

 

Joe, I understand your reluctance to remove the distrubutor, I had the same fear in the beginning and struggled to install my first pertronix. Then when my buddy came over, pulled the dist. after the first Pertronix burned out and replace the points and re installed the dist. in about 5 mins, I decided that I had to learn to do it.
When you pull the Dist cap, just make sure you mark where the rotor is pointing and maker sure it points the exact same place when you put the distr, back in.

 

Thanks to everyone that jimped in. I am not an experienced mechanic, but this truck and the forum are my education, and I really like working on it and learning. I think I understand now that I have to take out the distributor.

Today I replaced the points, capacitor and rotor with new ones. I gapped the points at .015 when up on the high point of the dizzy cam, and I greased the cam with the grease that came in the points pkg. I had already put a few drops of engine oil in the oil cup. The old points looked pretty nasty (toasty / burned and worn), but the cap and rotor didn't look too bad. I checked the old capacitor and it seemed OK, but I figured replace everything first, then troubleshoot if it won't start.

I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on how to take out a distributor and put it back in without screwing the timing. I get the concept, just need the cojones to do it. I do have an old time mechanic close to home that I am sure can fix anything I screw up (for a modest fee). He recently replaced my starter bendix for me when it sheared a bolt that holds that big spring. He must be pretty good cause he has a big boat and a nice airplane. : - )

One other question about taking out the distributor. The timing mark on the harmonic balancer is I believe TDC on cylinder number 1. So if I bump the engine around until the mark is exactly under the pointer, I should be able to assume that's TDC on #1, and then I can mark the rotor position where it is pointing to wire #1 on the cap. I realize because of the way the gear teeth are cut on a bias, that the distributor will turn when I pull it and put it back in, so I have to account for that happening. As long as it ends up with the rotor pointing the same place when I put it back and #1 is still on TDC, it should be OK.

I think once I get it out and look at it, everything will be clear. I will post again when I get that far with it.

As far as converting to 12 volt, I really don't want to go there. Same with the vacuum wipers. Big pain, but it's more fun that way. Every little trip in the truck is an adventure.

Thanks again.

 

With the pointer aligned with the bump, either #1 or #6 is at TDC. It will be obvious when you look at the rotor which it is. It doesn't matter, either, as long as you put it back in pointing to the same place.

 

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