Aluminum ignition switch link thingy?
#16
12-07-2014, 04:01 PM
For example, the youtube was a hack, that procedure list was good but incomplete.
They are 8/32, and a little tip, to get the broken part out the bottom can be pushed up by sticking something long in "under" the shift lever and prying up.
Mines going back together now.
#17
12-07-2014, 04:13 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#18
12-07-2014, 10:54 PM
Ok so here is my final take, I didn't take the time to take pics, maybe later or I'll find some online, but for now this is the best write-up I can manage.
This quote from another thread, is the best I came across when searching, though much of it is incomplete, or unnecessary. Red is my notes.
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91 BruteFord version
1)Disconnect battery, you'll be activating the ignition, better it doesn't start.
2) Remove steering wheel.
A) Remove center pad/cruise buttons. 2 screws in back of steering wheel, (some are phillips head, some torx and hex head) then pull carefully exposing wires, unplug and set aside.
B) Remove large center nut, 15/16 socket.
C) Remove steering wheel with puller, steering wheel hub is IIRC 5/16-18.
3) Remove screws securing turn signal switch, and key in chime wire.
A) Key in chime wire is on the right just under the ignition lock cylinder secured with single phillips head screw.
B) Turn signal switch secured with 2 phillips head screws, you'll find them easier to remove by activating the turn signal to move the mechanism over the screw head.(this is why this is done before removing lever)
4)Remove the turn signal lever, simply unscrews, helpful to put tilt adjustment in full down position prior to removing lever.
5) Pull turn signal switch out over the steering shaft, and push aside. There should be enough slack in the harness without unplugging it.
6) Remove the outer aluminum housing that houses the ignition lock cylinder.
A) Remove the three phillips head screws under the turn signal switch
B) Next simply lift off but while doing so turn the key all the way forward(toward start) this will push out the part that connects the ignition lock cylinder the broken actuator. This is also the part with the pin that comes up to lock the steering wheel, you'll see it move up and down as you turn the key. You're simply turning it all the way down so it comes out of the part your taking off and stays with the rest of the column.
C) Depending on how broken yours is this part may simply fall on the floor, no worries if it does, just don't lose it. If it stays connected you'll now see how it connects to the actuator. If so, pushing it all the way into the column will create enough room to disconnect and remove it.
7) You can now see the actuator clearly, at this point, might as well get as much of it out as you can depending on how broken it is.
A) Likely it is still connected to the ignition rod at the top under the roll pin. No reason to bother removing the pin, the part is junk, just grab some pliers and break one or both of the ears off.
B) Most often the it breaks off flush with the column where it slides in and out leaving nothing to grab to pull it out. IDK about manuals, but on an automatic you can get to the base of the actuator to push it up by sticking a small screwdriver or something in beside the shifter. If you look in next to the shifter you can actually see it. Make sure the shifter is in park or it won't come out then stick it in behind the shifter in the corner of the slot closest to the gauges in at a 45 and pry it out.
8) Next is the hardest part, of disassembly anyway. In order to have enough room to get the new one in you have to remove the top portion of the tilt column.
A) Start by removing the snap ring on the steering shaft.
B) Next remove the tilt locking mechanism. Start by looking at it, under the steering shaft you'll see a lever arm thing with notches in it, this is what has to be removed.
i) Start by tilting it all the way up, this has the least spring pressure and most room to work. I found the easiest way is to push up the top of the notched arm with my thumb.
ii) On the left is a curved bar thing, this is what the turn signal lever pushes on to release the column tilt lock. It comes out easy, has two clips, just pry them off with a screwdriver, then pull the bar out. Under the par is a pin and spring pull them out so they don't disappear.
iii) Underneath is a pin the notched arm pivots on, tap it out with a punch. Let the punch hold it in place as the arm is under spring pressure, the about 1" long spring at the top with the plastic base. Then you can set the pin aside and carefully pull your punch out and not let the spring pop out and disappear.
iv) Now the notched arm will come out.
C)Next remove the column pivot pins, these are on the side and threaded in the center.
i) Start with the right side, screw in an 8/32 screw and pull it out, there is a spring pushing the column tilt up, the long one on the right(this is why right first) so be careful and pushing down will help the pin come out.
ii)Next the left pin, left pin last so your left hand can pull the pin while the right pushes on the column and retains the spring.
iii) Now it will lift off over the shaft, don't lose the spring.
Congratulations it's as apart as it has to be.
Putting it back together.
1) Grease LIBERALLY and slide in the new actuator.
2) Connect the ignition switch rod and install roll pin, pliers work best, just squeeze it in.
3) At this point I test, connect the battery and turn on (maybe start) by pushing down on the actuator.
4) Put the top part of the tilt back on.
A) Spring back in place, helpful to use a punch in place of one of the right pivot pin, then push and install left, then install right.
5) Put the notched tilt lock back in, again helpful to use a punch in place of the pin, get it all together with the spring then tap in the pin.
6) Put the bent rod tilt thing back in with the two clips, easy.
7) Put back snap ring on steering shaft.
8) (battery disconnected) connect the geared part to the actuator, do this by pushing the actuator all the way down to make enough room to hook it on.
9) Install upper portion with ignition lock cylinder.
A) Turn key all the way forward, put geared part into slot and rotate the key back to suck in the geared portion.
B)Secure with the 3 screws.
10) Test, start with the key.
11) Install turn signal switch, lever, steering wheel etc. should be easy enough to finish, don't need me telling you how.
This quote from another thread, is the best I came across when searching, though much of it is incomplete, or unnecessary. Red is my notes.
This is my personal write-up from the last time I did mine:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash. Not needed unless you need to start it before the repair.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts. Not needed.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder. Not needed.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of. Not needed.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash. Not needed unless you need to start it before the repair.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts. Not needed.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder. Not needed.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of. Not needed.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91 BruteFord version
1)Disconnect battery, you'll be activating the ignition, better it doesn't start.
2) Remove steering wheel.
A) Remove center pad/cruise buttons. 2 screws in back of steering wheel, (some are phillips head, some torx and hex head) then pull carefully exposing wires, unplug and set aside.
B) Remove large center nut, 15/16 socket.
C) Remove steering wheel with puller, steering wheel hub is IIRC 5/16-18.
3) Remove screws securing turn signal switch, and key in chime wire.
A) Key in chime wire is on the right just under the ignition lock cylinder secured with single phillips head screw.
B) Turn signal switch secured with 2 phillips head screws, you'll find them easier to remove by activating the turn signal to move the mechanism over the screw head.(this is why this is done before removing lever)
4)Remove the turn signal lever, simply unscrews, helpful to put tilt adjustment in full down position prior to removing lever.
5) Pull turn signal switch out over the steering shaft, and push aside. There should be enough slack in the harness without unplugging it.
6) Remove the outer aluminum housing that houses the ignition lock cylinder.
A) Remove the three phillips head screws under the turn signal switch
B) Next simply lift off but while doing so turn the key all the way forward(toward start) this will push out the part that connects the ignition lock cylinder the broken actuator. This is also the part with the pin that comes up to lock the steering wheel, you'll see it move up and down as you turn the key. You're simply turning it all the way down so it comes out of the part your taking off and stays with the rest of the column.
C) Depending on how broken yours is this part may simply fall on the floor, no worries if it does, just don't lose it. If it stays connected you'll now see how it connects to the actuator. If so, pushing it all the way into the column will create enough room to disconnect and remove it.
7) You can now see the actuator clearly, at this point, might as well get as much of it out as you can depending on how broken it is.
A) Likely it is still connected to the ignition rod at the top under the roll pin. No reason to bother removing the pin, the part is junk, just grab some pliers and break one or both of the ears off.
B) Most often the it breaks off flush with the column where it slides in and out leaving nothing to grab to pull it out. IDK about manuals, but on an automatic you can get to the base of the actuator to push it up by sticking a small screwdriver or something in beside the shifter. If you look in next to the shifter you can actually see it. Make sure the shifter is in park or it won't come out then stick it in behind the shifter in the corner of the slot closest to the gauges in at a 45 and pry it out.
8) Next is the hardest part, of disassembly anyway. In order to have enough room to get the new one in you have to remove the top portion of the tilt column.
A) Start by removing the snap ring on the steering shaft.
B) Next remove the tilt locking mechanism. Start by looking at it, under the steering shaft you'll see a lever arm thing with notches in it, this is what has to be removed.
i) Start by tilting it all the way up, this has the least spring pressure and most room to work. I found the easiest way is to push up the top of the notched arm with my thumb.
ii) On the left is a curved bar thing, this is what the turn signal lever pushes on to release the column tilt lock. It comes out easy, has two clips, just pry them off with a screwdriver, then pull the bar out. Under the par is a pin and spring pull them out so they don't disappear.
iii) Underneath is a pin the notched arm pivots on, tap it out with a punch. Let the punch hold it in place as the arm is under spring pressure, the about 1" long spring at the top with the plastic base. Then you can set the pin aside and carefully pull your punch out and not let the spring pop out and disappear.
iv) Now the notched arm will come out.
C)Next remove the column pivot pins, these are on the side and threaded in the center.
i) Start with the right side, screw in an 8/32 screw and pull it out, there is a spring pushing the column tilt up, the long one on the right(this is why right first) so be careful and pushing down will help the pin come out.
ii)Next the left pin, left pin last so your left hand can pull the pin while the right pushes on the column and retains the spring.
iii) Now it will lift off over the shaft, don't lose the spring.
Congratulations it's as apart as it has to be.
Putting it back together.
1) Grease LIBERALLY and slide in the new actuator.
2) Connect the ignition switch rod and install roll pin, pliers work best, just squeeze it in.
3) At this point I test, connect the battery and turn on (maybe start) by pushing down on the actuator.
4) Put the top part of the tilt back on.
A) Spring back in place, helpful to use a punch in place of one of the right pivot pin, then push and install left, then install right.
5) Put the notched tilt lock back in, again helpful to use a punch in place of the pin, get it all together with the spring then tap in the pin.
6) Put the bent rod tilt thing back in with the two clips, easy.
7) Put back snap ring on steering shaft.
8) (battery disconnected) connect the geared part to the actuator, do this by pushing the actuator all the way down to make enough room to hook it on.
9) Install upper portion with ignition lock cylinder.
A) Turn key all the way forward, put geared part into slot and rotate the key back to suck in the geared portion.
B)Secure with the 3 screws.
10) Test, start with the key.
11) Install turn signal switch, lever, steering wheel etc. should be easy enough to finish, don't need me telling you how.
#19
12-08-2014, 10:06 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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#20
12-08-2014, 02:49 PM
i never understood why everyone claims you have to drop the column, or remove the key cylinder and ignition switch either.
My way is predicated on taking the rod/actuator out of the column and working on it on the bench using a vise. This way is easier for someone who has never done this before, IMO, as opposed to asking them to break the old actuator apart in the column, a move that may work, or may break more parts.
Again, my opinion here, but just assuming that everyone is capable of doing this job the very fastest, shortest way assumes a lot of knowledge and also confidence that may not be in place.
#21
12-08-2014, 03:50 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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there is no need to break anything though. if you look at it, it all falls apart and falls back together.
i did it once with a guy watching me just to show him how to do it. 2 years later we had one come in the shop when i was not there, and he did it in truck in 3 hours, simply by watching me do it 2 years earlier.
i had guys tell me it took 6-7 hours because the column had to come out of the truck and be completely taken apart like all the directions say.
and they would charge $300 to do it. this was 15 years ago.
i would do it in 2 hours for $75 with parts.
i did it once with a guy watching me just to show him how to do it. 2 years later we had one come in the shop when i was not there, and he did it in truck in 3 hours, simply by watching me do it 2 years earlier.
i had guys tell me it took 6-7 hours because the column had to come out of the truck and be completely taken apart like all the directions say.
and they would charge $300 to do it. this was 15 years ago.
i would do it in 2 hours for $75 with parts.
#22
12-08-2014, 09:07 PM
My way is predicated on taking the rod/actuator out of the column and working on it on the bench using a vise. This way is easier for someone who has never done this before, IMO, as opposed to asking them to break the old actuator apart in the column, a move that may work, or may break more parts.
Again, why pull the ignition lock cylinder?
Still though, I took a good actuator out of the column of a parts truck. Of course I didn't break it to take it out. There is a bar at the top of the upper tilt portion that is positioned perfectly when tilted right to function as an anvil for punching out the roll pin.
#24
12-10-2014, 05:12 PM
I'm sorry I hurt your ego by posting correct info to help the next guy and prevent them from having the issues I did from false incorrect info. Of course I did it for totally selfish reasons, I made a fortune from it and it made my heart warm to disagree with you.
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