I recently bought a 64 f100 short bed that is in great shape. It is a numbers matching truck with the original 292 y block that supposedly was rebuilt 20 years ago and driven a few times before the original owner died. I'm waiting to get the gas tank back in the truck see if starts / runs.

I'm new to y blocks and I want something to go out and play with on the weekends, maybe hit a car show or two, not too concerned with daily driving.

Not looking for a full blown strip truck, just want something with some punch. I just don't want to be disappointed with a 292 build. Would I be better served with a 351w or big block?

I'm ready to get started on this project. The body is in great shape with no rust spots, only surface rust.

Any advice / tips would be helpful.

Pics to follow.

Thanks.

 

Pics of new project:

 

292 is pretty low compression and has a restrictive exhaust. But it runs fine on pump gas too. With some headers or dual exhaust they sound really sweet. If it were me I'd be inclined to keep it. With the right cam and a curved dizzy it should be just what you're looking for.

 

There isn't a low cost way to increase the 292's compression.


Since the lifters install from the bottom of the block, a cam change isn't easy.


Your best bet and best bank for the buck is a good tuneup, a set of ramhorn exhaust manifolds and dual exhaust, and a good 2v or 4v carb.


The 292 isn't going to make any decent power unless you invest a good chunk of change.


You will get a lot of advice on finding better heads and manifolds, but good luck finding them. Y block parts are getting harder and harder to come by.


My 64 292 runs good, Ive decided to concentrate on appearance and function instead of performance. I don't want to make the investment into the 292 trying to make a brick fast.

 

First off, welcome to FTE. Second no such thing as numbers matching on these trucks. That's a GM thing.
I know you'll say it's all original and rightly so, but it's still not a numbers matching thing.
Check out the y-block forum tips and secrets to building a better performing y-block.
My 292 does great, Dual exhaust headers going through three inch pipe and flowmasters exiting out the back.
Plenty of power but I have a cruiser. I don't care how long it takes me to go from point A to point B, I just care how I look getting there.

 

Are headers "better" than rams horns? Both would (I think) extend to a crossover (H pipe?) and glasspacks anyway right? Been thinking about that for my truck. Want to get that one potato two potato thing goin'.

If your engine has been rebuilt - and a vacuum gauge and compression test would bear that out or not, you're mostly there, plus no motor mount fabrication necessary.

 

The Y-Block is probably my favorite motor. Once it's set up, it seem to run pretty much forever. Early t-birds had these, so they could be built to make power, but as Shadowrider said, turning a truck motor into a performer will cost some money. (That said, so will dropping in a replacement engine.)

For performance and other hard-to-find Y parts, try Mummert's site:

FORD Y

I've gotten a few things from them--good quality but not cheap. They have also been great over the phone with advice and help.

~Steve

 

Welcome to the Forum, nice original looking truck you have there. Perhaps if you enlighten on what you mean by "some punch" that you are looking for it might help (you can get punch by changing the rear gear ratio). However, if you have an original truck, you may want to re-think the restoration strategy. An original restoration will be worth more 5 or 10 or 15 years down the road than a truck thats been hacked and swapped with late model parts, etc. If you just want a truck to drive part time like to car shows, etc, and you had a budget of 5K for example, that 5K would go a long way toward cleaning up the body and paint details and you would have a sweet original ride. Ive been watching a guy trying to sell a 65 or 66 "from Arizona" with a 302 and auto trans swap over. He's dropped the price by over a thousand dollars and still no takers...just 2 cents worth, good luck.

 

Thank you everyone for your responses.

My budget is around $7-8K. when I say I want some "Punch," I just want something more than a cruiser. I don't think I would ever take it to the strip, but would like to have the option. I have my eye on ecz-g heads and a 2x4 intake and carbs, but I heard the 2x4 is a pain. I would also like to do a t5 swap behind that combo.

I was kicking around the idea of cleaning up the existing paint since it only has surface rust and would be all original. But I don't know what that would entail and it would look good with a fresh paint job. This is my first full project, so I have just been looking around on the ford forums and trying to pick up some ideas and tips.

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks again everyone.

 

These truck engines are low compression and low rpm because they are in work trucks. That's why many of them are still running 50 years later.


It will cost less to drop a 5.0/T5 in than it will to make hp out of a 292. I see decent running 5.0 Mustangs all the time for 2-4k.

 

Headers are better. Exhaust test to end all tests?

A stock '64 292 is going to need some work but it's not hard at all. You will need a better cam, which means an almost complete tear-down is needed and that will be a good time to verify the rebuild claim. Since you will have it so far down, it is a great time to take care of compression and have the deck 0'd. From that point, it is up to you if you want to go farther. With the deck 0'd, a good cam and the rebuild verified, you have a solid start for a good performing street engine. Big valve, higher compression heads can be added now or down the road.
Keep in mind that a bigger cam will require higher compression and on a 292 with flat top pistons, you are not likely to get much over 9:1, even with the high compression heads. It will run on lower compression but you'll be leaving a good bit on the table if you over cam it.
The 2x4s will perform better than the factory single 4 manifold but an aftermarket single 4 will probably perform better than the 2x4s and be cheaper and less hassle.

 

Some day I see a 347 stroker with an AOD in my 64.


As the years roll by, Im less interested in getting under the hood and tinkering.


My wifes car just hit 50k, I have done 10 oil changes and 3 air filter changes. That's it, no other maintenance needed. Mileage has always been within 1/2mpg +/-.


I like the y block, the look, the sound. but Im lazy and like ease of technology.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...storation.html


Here ya go, Headers from Redd's headers. Cam, 60 over Hi comp pistons, gaskets and a few other motor parts from Mummert. Intake is a Blue Thunder valve covers from ebay. Finned valley cover from an outfit in Canada don't remember name. Mummert was out of his intake and valley cover or they would have come from him also. Motor is balanced. Idles at 45 psi and up to 80 psi depending on speed. Melling oil pump. Holley carb vacumn secondaries don't plan on using them much. Has plenty of go on 2. Exhaust is 2.5 inch with Flow Master welded mufflers, could look right through them. pipes out the back. Sounds good and throaty. When box is on I am sure it will be a little quieter in the cab,

 

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</td><td width="100%">Skidoorulz that truck is gorgeous, nice job on your restore.














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As others have said, you need to decide where you want to go with the build. Staying close to stock will give the best resale value. Your dream can be someone else nightmare. If it is just a toy and a good way to soak up some of your extra cash, then there are no rules or logic.

Punch is relative and can be expensive. Dropping a good used big block and C-6 will likely be the best punch value. I would not swap for a small block as the power difference would not be worth the effort.

I am a Y-block lover and the 64 is the last year for the Y in the US. It makes the 64 an old truck. 8K would build a nice Y-block with plenty of power (not big block power) but you will still be limited to pre-64 transmission choices. More money will give you more trans choices but nothing new will bolt up.

If you stay with the Y here is my plan (less the gear swap).

If you truly just want a little more power start by adjusting the valves, and replacing the ignition parts. This can make a big difference. I replaced the points with Petronic unit. No more power, but no less power from burnt or miss adjusted points, and you no longer have to fear the rain. Next check The slack in you timing chain. It should be fine if it has a fresh rebuild but a stretched change can kill a lot low end power where the Y lives. Start with a timing light and if the readings bounce around a lot,go to the Y-block forum for instructions to see how loose the chain is.

Next, check your axle ratio, I have a 3.00. 4.10s are readily available and would really add power. Second gear with 4.10's is close to 1st gear ratios with a 3.00, big difference.

Next I would add some ram horns and 2.5 duels. Mainly because they look and sound good. You should pick up 10% or so on power and sound a lot faster. Next, pick up a Ford 4bbl manifold and carb. These are dual plane manifolds so they add power at low end and top end power. The new aluminum cast manifolds are for top end only. This is my power plan and it should should cost you less than $1k.

If you still want it to "feel" faster get some hard tires, an old steering box, and get some air in your brake lines. Then even 45 mph will seem fast.