I think 5 speed of the era was avail on the Lincoln motor only. Confirm your belhousing will fit, heck make sure the whole thing will fit. It's got to be physically bigger.
They were also avail direct and overdrive but overdrives aren't too common

 

For an E brake, look into a mechanical disc brake caliper from Wilwood brakes. Some hot rod guys and four wheelers mount a brake rotor on their rear pinion or trans output and these mechanical calipers are rod or cable operated. I just bought an older case skidsteer for a forklift and after I bought it I found the entire drum brake assembly had been removed from both shafts. Last owner just stabbed the bucket into the dirt, but that doesn't work with lumber on forks. I bought 2 honda civic rear rotors and a pair of keyed hubs that matched the rotor pattern and the 1 1/4" shafts. Pretty easy linkage setup and solved a big problem since Case no longer listed the stock parts. The calipers are available for different thickness rotors and cost 94.00. Any old rotor will work, but new ones at napa were 26.00 each. One thing for you and myself and others to consider when using ANY kind of parking brake including factory installed type with a vacuum operated 2 speed axle is to follow the directions on the plate and always shut the truck down with the control **** pushed in. Leaving in the out position it is held that way by vacuum, which bleeds off. A spring is always pulling it into the low position. As vacuum bleeds off and the spring is moving the lever to the other position, there is that period when it's between the 2 speeds in the diff and at that point she's a freewheeler. No driveline ebrake or having the tranny in low or reverse will keep it from taking off like a giant roller skate into who knows what...... An 86 year old farmer told me that last year when I told him my new '47 had a vacuum operated 2 speed. His younger brother Dick had been killed by a runaway dump truck in a quarry back in the 50's.

 

If the 5-speed is for a 330-361-391 Ford truck engine, it could have overdrive as 5th gear or 5th being straight thru and 1st double low or "great grannie".
Mark

 

Maybe late to this discussion, but we talked about this on another thread where I had pointed out a motorhome in Seattle on CL (which vanished three days later). Can those axles and drums be had and installed in any other Dana 70 housing? Again, thanks for the info Stu!

 

I haven't had a chance to drive up to Seattle for it yet, I had to fire the boilers at work and look at a trailer for my boss.

The info I have is it came out of an older Ford bus (I don't know how old) and it was behind a 390. I'm taking my 390 bellhousing up with me to make sure it will work.

Being it is a bus, I would think it is not a double low. Is there any way to tell them apart?

 

That's a great idea! I am heading out to Seattle now, I'll post back when I have picked up the 5sp.

 

The transmission came out of a '59 Ford bus and it turns out that it won't fit the bellhousing I have. The bellhousing I have came with the 390 when I bought it, I suspect it is a car bellhousing after looking it over. I still don't know for sure what tranny it is, it looks a lot like a NP435. Also, I am used to how heavy these trannies are but this was a bit more than I expected. I barely got it into the trunk of the CV, and the carpet in the trunk will never be the same. Now I have to figure out how to get it out of there!

 

Don't know. But do know that the Dana Bill of Materials (BOM) code for the axle I had is 603652. You'll find the parts list for it at the Dana web site (page 34 below), but the brakes, hubs, and other wheel end components are spec'd separately from the differential itself. They would take having the RM400/500 parts manual. They are on eBay but I never took the idea that far. Stu

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._1967-1978.pdf

 

Well I think I have at least the motor and tranny worked out.
I went out and looked at a UD TD42 diesel with a 6speed tranny out of a '93 UD 1300. It has a little under 200K miles on it and it also includes the crossmember the motor was mounted to the frame of the UD with. I gave the guy 50% of the money and will pay it off and pick it up in two weeks. By then I will have the cab off and be prepping the frame. I still don't have wheels on it, but that will happen after the motor is paid off. Maybe this 6speed will be able to overcome my 2speed rear. I am getting the specs on the engine and transmission from Nissan Diesel (currently owned by Volvo) on Monday. I'll be posting picks next week when I get the cab off, and again the following week when I pick up the diesel.

 

Have you picked up your diesel yet? Sounds like an interesting swap. Do you have any specs on the engine?
Mark

 

Hey Mark,

I picked up the diesel three weeks ago, and then I went out of town. As soon as I saw your post, I went out to the barn and took a few dozen pics with my phone and when I can get them on the computer I will post them. Probably tomorrow.

The motor is a 1993 UD TD42t turbo diesel straight six 4.2l (254 CID) with a 5sp overdrive transmission and parking brake on the transmission output. It looks like if I change the air deflector in the hood to one for a six and move the radiator forward to the six cyl. position, it will fit in like it was made for it. Shifting will be interesting, although the local UD guys think this is such a great project they gave me a new shifter and cables and have offered any technical support that they can provide. The shifter will need to be mounted on a tower between the seats, as if it is a ratchet shifter for an automatic. I will need to mate the output flange yoke to my driveshaft. Carrier bearing is shot so I will replace that too. It gets interesting when it comes to the rear axle because I want to swap it out for a Dana 70 from a Dodge motorhome but I haven't found one yet, and I don't know if I will need to change the length of the second shaft and/or the yoke for the u-joint to fit the different axle. I have the crossmember for the UD motor, it is 24" wide outside to outside and my frame rails are 26" wide inside so even fabbing the brackets to mount it doesn't look like it will present a problem. This motor has two spin-on oil filters and an external filter tank as well as a wet sump, and the two spin-ons are on the passenger side upper block to the rear spinning on downward and it looks like changing them may be difficult, so I will probably set them up remotely. The air intake is 2 1/4 "ID so I am planning on plumbing it along the top of the passenger side fender skirt to the top of the passenger side radiator mount where I will cut out a hole and put an air filter in front of the radiator behind the grill. I definitely don't want to notch the fender for an air canister. The guy I bought the motor off of said that since it is a turbo, it isn't that loud and if I run a stack then I won't need a muffler. I am not really a fan of stacks and the routing may get in the way of how I arrange the bed so I haven't made up my mind yet but I will probably just run a flowmaster and run a single pipe to in front of the duallies. The exhaust is a 3"ID. The original exhaust tube has a vacuum operated baffle in it about three feet down from the exhaust header and I am not sure what that is for. I have two 130 gallon fuel tanks off of a diesel F800 (not sure of the year, I am guessing mid-'70s).

 

Thanks for the update on your project, Mark. I would SWAG the baffle is an exhaust brake?
Sure anxious to see that thing at TS15. Only 6 1/2 months away.
Edit: Your UD guys are right, this is a very interesting project.

 

Mark, Thanks for the reply and the update. That sounds like that will make a dandy engine for your truck. Probably a little more power than my Mercedes engine.
You might be able to route your air intake similar to what I did on my Mercedes swap. I used 3" mandrel bent exhaust tube pieces from Summit and some silicone connectors and elbows from HPS to connect it all together. You can see photos on my build thread. I used a 30 degree bend out of the turbo with a 90 degree silicone ell connecting it to a 180 degree bend going out through the inner fender and back through the inner fender in front of the radiator. I have a 15 degree bend welded to the 180 so the air cleaner will clear the radiator mount. All I have to do to access the air cleaner is remove the hood latch plate. I had to move the radiator to the six cylinder position and use a six air deflector in the hood. I also had to use a six cylinder battery box to get the battery away from the exhaust. I am going to run my exhaust out behind the wheels. My brother had the exhaust out in front of the wheel on his VW diesel pickup for a while and it made the whole side of the truck black. I am looking forward to photos of your build and will be following this thread.
Thanks again, Mark

 

Hey Ray, I believe that the baffle is an exhaust brake too, but I do not know for certain. It is a vacuum operated butterfly valve in the exhaust pipe and I see no other use for it.

Believe me, I have been eyeing the calender because I really want to get this truck out to ST15! Lately my time has been taken up with dealing with a lawyer and no less than five bureaucracies about taxes from twenty-three years ago that I don't owe but they have levied my bank account over and are generally making my life far more difficult than it already has been. Getting the front end sheet metal apart is really a challenge; every bolt and stud is severely rusted and even liberal doses of kano and judicious use of my MAPP torch have not been that much help in the process. For instance, the radiator is in excellent shape but of the bolts holding the fan shroud on that I still haven't gotten the bottom two off nor the middle one in the driver's side, and pretty much the same goes for the radiator mounting bolts. The screws holding on the hood latch plate don't move no matter what I try and if I drill them out I am not sure if I can save the threads so I may need to tack on some nuts to the underside, but the metal is thin and I don't have a TIG handy here so I haven't started that yet. I'll get all of this done soon enough but my attention keeps getting drawn away by desk jockeys.

I haven't uploaded the pics yet, I will do that this evening when it gets too cold to work in the barn. At least bureaucrats don't work on weekends!

 

We wish you luck both with the truck and in dealing with the bureaucrats. Might find it easier to use six point sockets and twist the nut bolt arrangements off rather than removing them the conventional way.