Slight Stumbling and 1-time hard to start
#1
Slight Stumbling and 1-time hard to start
The forum logged me off the first time I posted this....try again.
Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug.
Thoughts/suggestions as I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug.
Thoughts/suggestions as I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
#2
I hope you will forgive me for getting on your case right away.
First, what year and motor are we working on?
Second, your not going about this in a very good manner.
The 1207 code is for injector 7 open or shorted not the CHT. That will sure cause a miss.
If using a Scanner with a trap feature you should be able to get a lead on the issues instead of working on just thought and suspicions.
BTW, 97 to 03 does not use a fuel pump module. If you have one, the truck is a later year.
Withdraw the troops and get ready to attack again.
Good luck.
First, what year and motor are we working on?
Second, your not going about this in a very good manner.
The 1207 code is for injector 7 open or shorted not the CHT. That will sure cause a miss.
If using a Scanner with a trap feature you should be able to get a lead on the issues instead of working on just thought and suspicions.
BTW, 97 to 03 does not use a fuel pump module. If you have one, the truck is a later year.
Withdraw the troops and get ready to attack again.
Good luck.
#3
My apologies....wrong number right wording code 1288 cylinder head temp sensor out of self test range. This error occurred on a cold motor with cold air temp BTW
2002 f150 4.6 5 speed 4x4 80,000
Yes looking back on it it looks silly but the other two times I had a Ford fuel pump quit on other vehicles it felt through the seat-of-pants meter just like this so I went with it 1st. Never had a problem with a Ford that didnt involve a CEL so that threw me off too. I am a 5.0 old guy trying to come up to speed on these 4.6Liters (my second one).
2002 f150 4.6 5 speed 4x4 80,000
Yes looking back on it it looks silly but the other two times I had a Ford fuel pump quit on other vehicles it felt through the seat-of-pants meter just like this so I went with it 1st. Never had a problem with a Ford that didnt involve a CEL so that threw me off too. I am a 5.0 old guy trying to come up to speed on these 4.6Liters (my second one).
#5
#6
Cleared codes. Have driven a couple times since.....no CEL but still stumbling especially in higher gears going uphill. Starting and idling just fine. WOT it pulls good also like it always has. Can this be a clutch slipping? As a fan of manuals I've had many over the years so I would say no as it feels like motor but I don't know.
On a related note what's the best solution for replacing bed bolts as two had to be cut off? Aftermarket or is there a good substitute of another type of bolt?
Bluegrass if that means KY I live down by the Lakes BTW.
Thanks for the help everyone
On a related note what's the best solution for replacing bed bolts as two had to be cut off? Aftermarket or is there a good substitute of another type of bolt?
Bluegrass if that means KY I live down by the Lakes BTW.
Thanks for the help everyone
#7
Still no CEL's
Nothing in Continuous
KOEO P1288 & P1709
KOER Nothing
I have watched the live data while driving but don't see anything obvious. Something I should be looking for?
FIL and BIL swear COL or plug but they are total Chevy guys who hate Fords so their credibility is in question there.
Can you have a problem with coil or plugs without CEL or Code? Or does P1288 make sense - has it is pulling fuel while driving if it thinks it out of range? Still wonder about clutch also.
Help. If unreliability it starting to cause problems with being able to get other things done.
Nothing in Continuous
KOEO P1288 & P1709
KOER Nothing
I have watched the live data while driving but don't see anything obvious. Something I should be looking for?
FIL and BIL swear COL or plug but they are total Chevy guys who hate Fords so their credibility is in question there.
Can you have a problem with coil or plugs without CEL or Code? Or does P1288 make sense - has it is pulling fuel while driving if it thinks it out of range? Still wonder about clutch also.
Help. If unreliability it starting to cause problems with being able to get other things done.
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#8
Yes,you can have a misfire without getting a cel or pending code.
Sounds like a coil to me
If your scanner,or you have access to one, has
mode$6 test $53 capability you can check the misfire count
and find the culprit.
PS,
I have had a few of these
I have pushed the misfire by using light throttle,made it work a bit, in OD and had made it
set a pending code to find out what cylinder is misfiring
The worse the misfire, especially a flashing CEL,the more danger of
ruining the cats with raw gas.
Good luck
Sounds like a coil to me
If your scanner,or you have access to one, has
mode$6 test $53 capability you can check the misfire count
and find the culprit.
PS,
I have had a few of these
I have pushed the misfire by using light throttle,made it work a bit, in OD and had made it
set a pending code to find out what cylinder is misfiring
The worse the misfire, especially a flashing CEL,the more danger of
ruining the cats with raw gas.
Good luck
#10
Finally got something.....misfire on cyl 8 according to my scanner. I'm out of time with the holidays to work on it myself so I'll try and get it in to the local recommended mechanic.
On another note, how long does P1000 take to clear? I thought it was like 3 starts/drives. It's on like 9 times if start it up and drive a few miles till its warmed up to count.
On another note, how long does P1000 take to clear? I thought it was like 3 starts/drives. It's on like 9 times if start it up and drive a few miles till its warmed up to count.
#12
#13
Rockauto.com seems to have good prices. Beware of the prices seen on ebay and amazon. High price does not equal high quality. I ordered these, and have had zero issues. If you have the means, go motorcraft. If money is tight, I have been running these since March with no issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good luck.
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