I have a 2002 F-150 extended cab and the rear door(drivers side) quit opening a few days ago. No warning--worked one day and just stopped opening the next. Are there any tricks to getting the panel off to ck. for trouble spots?
Mike

 

I have a 1999 F250 light duty and both of my rear doors stopped working. I hope someone can answer you soon. I have no idea how to fix mine. I've looked all over them back doors and I'm stumped.

 

I had a 99 F250 with the exact same problem....I think YouTube had some videos:

 

You may want to see if the plastic ends on the cables that operate the latches are still in one piece. They usually break after about 8 year or so depending on weather conditions. There is a fix that you can try here, that's a LOT cheaper that replacing the cables or the assembly.


Vehicle Parts & Accessories


I hope it helps bud.

 

I just replaced the rear door latch assemblies on my truck because the plastic ends that keep the cable housing in palace broke. I've replaced many of these in the last 8-10 years. Commonly its the housing that releases the door latch that brakes first but the one from the internal door handle isn't far behind

These are really easy to change. Something to make sure of is not getting the tension too tight on the end piece that connects to the mechanism in the center of the door. It needs to be just enough to unlatch the door and 1/4 turn more. Too much tension causes the cable to stress the cable housing and putting it in a bind and braking the plastic ends of the new cable. Ive replaced these after other people have and found every one of them to be far to tight. I believe this may be one reason many of them broke before the warranty ran out due to being slightly too tight. My brother had both of them replaced on the truck I got from him when the truck was only 3 years old.

If one of these trucks come to me for either a rear door that wont open, front doors that have sticky lock actuators or latch switches I offer a package deal. That includes replacing both cable assemblies in both rear doors, replacing the lock actuators in the front doors and reworking the latch switches in the front doors. Takes me about an hour. Almost every single one of the F150's from around 98 to the late 2000's have the same issues with the doors.

And if memory servers me correctly I believe up to 02 there's a safety recall on the cruise control that I highly recommend checking on. I believe it was the F150's made in Kansas mostly.

KW

 

Do you think using a metal end would be more forgiving on the adjustment? So if it was in a slight bind, it wouldn't break.

 

There needs to be a designed weak point or the arms on the center assembly will bend. If adjusted properly they will least for many years until the plastic becoms brittle. The dealership replaced cables in my truck lasted about 14 years.

 

I wished they would have lasted that long in my truck. One thing about metal. They won't become brittle.

 

This is what i used had some lieying around
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-x-pcs-Bike-Brake-Cable-Adjuster-Screws-7mm-/321310447455?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4acf98575f

 

Interesting. Are they Aluminum or pot metal?

 

Aluminum. You can get them at aney bike shop.

 

'happened on my '99. After some digging around, I removed the plastic upper inner trim panel, then cut a hole in the steel inner door just below where it 'gets flat' below the window.

This allowed me to access the cable, so I could tug it with my finger, which releases the lower latch. My plan was to replace the cable, but this works so well, I've just kept it for months. I have to open the rear door latch handle while reaching to that hole (about 3x3" and tugging then cable with my other hand.

I may never fix it for good, as its an old work truck, and I am not concerned with resale (176,000 miles). I did put Gorilla Tape on the edges of the cutout (carbide disc in hand grinder) to keep from cutting my fingers. The plastic trim panel will stay off until I should ever do the "proper " cable fix.

Quick and easy!

can post some pics if anyone cares

 

Please do post some picks. I love seeing other fixes.

 

Sorry for the delay in responding.
My fix was/is a driveway quickie on my '99 work truck (seldom has a passenger). I care not about aesthetics on this job...when this truck goes it'll be to scrap...so resale is no concern. With the 4.2 and standard shift 2WD, its one smooth running guy!
The pop=off plastic inner window trim covers all this ..literally "in a snap", but I leave it off now to snag the black cable with my finder while pulling on the release handle with my other hand (simpler than it sounds. I stuck black Gorilla tape around the hole I cut with my angle grinder with Abrasive Disc. the tape is keep from cutting my finger while tugging the cable.
Pictures how the hole and a close up kinda shows the cable, if your monitor is good enough to pick it up.