That is a nice clean looking paint job, especially for having to mask and rattle can it in place.

If I ever get to the point where I have removed enough stuff of of my 7.3L to paint the valley, I'm painting mine BRIGHT WHITE, so I can really see if/when there is dark oil or fuel down there, and at the same time be able to see where the bolts and sockets have landed, to pick them up with a magnet on a stick.

 

So what your saying is use molasses alone or mix it with water for like a 70/30 ratio? The 30% would be molasses.

 

No, that isn't quite what I said. I said I use vinegar. I said I bought the smallest container of Evaporust because I strongly suspected, based on Evaporust's description of "chelation", "non toxic", bla bla bla, that it was merely molasses in solution. From what I knew about the properties of molasses interacting with iron oxidation, I was fairly confident that is all it was. So I let the Evaporust evaporate, and found the remaining base to be consistent with molasses by every human sense except taste. I didn't taste it. I also didn't bother to send a sample to a lab, because it looked and felt so obviously like molasses.

For those interested in Evaporust, I suggested googling "chelation" and "molasses", in order to see how paying less than $10 for a five gallon pail of feed store molasses can save major bucks over buying Evaporust, which appears to be molasses and water mixed in a non see through container.

Just now, I googled what I suggested, and the very first hit was this excellent and succinct description of using molasses to make rust disappear off of parts: Takes less than 60 seconds to read, and explains all that is needed to know, including the dilution formula you asked about. I don't want to take credit for the experience that other folks have found and shared, so here is the link to read for yourself:

Untitled Document

 

Thanks for the link. I will have to give that a try.

 

Well I'm on hold again. I ordered the turbo rebuild kit from Diesel O rings on Wed just because I could get it in 2 days. Well it came in today and I open it up and its the turbo pedestal rebuild kit and not the turbo rebuild kit. So I call them up and leave a message. Bob calls me back and says yeah I screwed up on that order and is sending the correct kit out. Unfortunately I wont be getting it till Wed now. So after opening Xmas gifts Thur morning I'll be out there putting it all back together. Were only human and people make mistakes. No big deal.

 

Bob from Diesel O Rings is a heck of a nice guy. Maybe the three extra days will give your paint a chance to cure and harden better.

 

Yes he is a hell of a nice guy. I thought about putting the turbo back in the oven to bake that paint on somemore. We'll see what mama has to say about that.

 

Bob is usually spot on with parts and I have always been impressed with his service. So OOpppsss
Do you really think you can get away with stinking up the house again? I was laughing as I read this and my wife asked what I was laughing at and I told her. She read me the riot act about how I better never put parts in the oven again. I was like Yes Dear. Actually I'll just do it when she isn't around. So if the wife says it is a no go on the oven. When you get the EX together you could start the truck up let it warm up, turn it off cool down and so on. I do believe that baking that paint correctly is part of the key to getting it to work. I believe when I did my turbo I did not bake mine correctly.

So you are going to rebuild the turbo? I am sure it doesn't need a rebuild but that is a good idea since you already have turbo in hand. My only advice if you are rebuilding it is make sure you get the groove in the turbine housing for the oil seal ring clean and the groove on the turbine wheel. I used a pick tool and a plumbing steel brush for doing copper pipe or you could try a gun barrel cleaning brush. Then use a little oil on oil seal and groove when you go to install the turbine wheel. I have heard of a few guys not doing this and damaging the oil seal/ turbine wheel or not getting it seated correctly when installing it.

W2KW57 Thanks The prep work was a really painful but I do believe it was the key.

 

I'm replacing all the parts except for the C seal on the exhaust side of the shaft because I never took the shaft out. All the other bearings and seals will get replaced since I have it all apart. I really didnt have to replace all those but I do have to replace the 4 leaf clover seal for sure.

Mama is gone for a few hours so i'm baking the turbo again...muahhhhh

 

Well since I'm waiting for my turbo rebuild kit to come in I decided to order the 4/4 compressor wheel from riffraff. I don't think ill get it by Wed but I should get it by Fri. I didn't want to regret not putting it in while I have the turbo apart. Just makes sense to do it.

 

So how did the turbo baking go? Did you stink up the house? Well you better be careful with the snowball effect or you might end up with a snowman. In the long run you'll be glad you went the extra mile.

 

The baking session went great. No smell at all. I think I will do it one more time just so I can get the 4 bolts loose that hold the exhaust housing on to do a complete rebuild.

Yeah that snowball needs to stop. Mama don't know about the wheel purchase yet.

 

ITS ALIVE...finished rebuilding the turbo last Sat and I put it in Sun morning. Didn't do anything else until today because of 12 hr shifts at work. So today I was able to get the intake, intercooler pipes, batts and what started this whole project the degaus bottle. The only leak I had was the small hose that connects to the degaus bottle. I had the old Ford clamp on there and it didn't seal it up so a I put a worm clamp on it and that did the trick.

Took it for a 4 mile run and Clays new wheel is awesome. I love the sound it has and the kick in the pants to get the X moving is awesome. I believe I wood feel a lot more if I get rid of the Banks 6 gun tuner and put a real tuner in it. It spools fast and and really gets you moving. I put the 6 gun tuner on level 5 and all I could get is 19 lbs of boost. Yep that tuner is really holding me back.

I do have a small air leak where the red and green air lines connect into that black rubber vacuum piece. I will have to find one on line, hopefully I can. Otherwise here is some **** pics.

 

Nice Job Rob !! Everything turned out beautiful. Hopefully taking the extra steps baking the turbo will pay off and the paint will hold up. IC pipes look great too ! Hard to believe this all came about just because of a leakie coolant reservoir. Now on mine I used a wire tie to hold the wiring harness to the A/C line to keep the IC pipe from rubbing on the RT side. Also I routed the MAP line under the IC pipe and between the heater core hoses to keep it from rubbing. Only problem with that is the factory vacuum line is too short to do so although the heater hose on the line should help.. I would just hate to see that nice paint job get ruined.

 

Thanks Ed. Yeah I am moving the line so it goes under the IC pipe but I didnt have any hose small enough to use. Thats why for now I had a big piece of hose to go around the MAP line and used that till I go buy some smaller hose.

I went to Ford this morning to see if I could get just the black rubber vacuum connectors for the red and green lines because mine are in bad shape and leaking and they just dont sell the rubber connections, I had to buy the lines with it. They were $25 for everything so I got 2 of them because my F350 is in the same condition. I looked for about 4 hours last night just for the rubber connectors and couldnt find them anywhere. When these come in I think I will cover the rubber with a oil resistant gasket maker or RTV. If anybody knows where you can buy just the connectors let me know.