1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

What is the secret to removing the door hinge screws on a monkey face?

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  #16  
Old 11-12-2014, 09:44 PM
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Can't recall where I saw this DIY tool, but I recall that the fabricator said it was very good at removal of rusty, stubborn hinge screws. I guess the air hammer helps to vibrate things loose, while the handle is turned by the user to apply extra torque during removal process. Looks handy ... haven't had a chance to try it though.

 
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gearhead1952
The door hinge screws extend past the nut plate in the door post. Over the years the exposed threads build up with a coating of rust. Trying to force the screws out you are forcing the thicker threads through the nut plate probably damaging the threads in the nut plate. I have done a ton of these and do it this way... Take a 3/8 drill bit and drill the heads off the screws. Once the heads are off take a punch and hit one of the outer screw stubs forcing the nut plate inward till all the screw stubs clear the hinge and you can remove the door. Continue to tap one of the outer screw stubs until you can reach in behind and remove the nut plate from the door post. A strap of sheetmetal holds the nut plate in place and is easily bent to remove the nut plate and bend back later. The nut plate is a triangle shaped piece. Now that the nut plate is out grind the remaining screw heads flush with the plate and using vise grips remove the screw from the back. If rusted stuck heat just the screw red hot wait till cool and should easily twist out. Hope this makes sense but this method saves a lot of effort and prevents damage to the nut plate.
That's a great explanation, actually. You've described the experience I've found with the rust build up on the exposed end of the screw threads. Even if you get them to break loose, thinking you're home free, they come out a little bit then seize up and break, leaving an even bigger mess. The drill out method is the most reliable way to remove the doors with the least amount of wasted time. That, and the "let sleeping dogs lay" plan is good, too.
 
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Old 11-13-2014, 07:37 AM
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2014, 09:25 AM
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Heat until cherry red
Let them cool
Manual impact w/ Phillips bit - smack with mallet until they move
PB blast from behind and then slowly back back them out - I use battery impact

The screws are not available anywhere so if your going for original gotta usually re-use them
 
  #20  
Old 11-16-2014, 01:15 PM
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If you are going to use one of these




make sure you take your time and don't allow the web between your forefinger and thumb get between the tool and they hammer, man that hurts!!!
 
  #21  
Old 11-16-2014, 04:00 PM
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The screws are available, several places. They are oval-headed 5/16"-24.

Roy Nacewicz Enterprises Ltd - Ford Bolts

(I'd call to confirm, but he has several styles of this odd thread combination)
 
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Old 11-16-2014, 05:15 PM
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It seems like the bolts might be a little easier to find now than when I was looking for them about 10 years ago. Seems like most of the reproduction sellers have them for around $1 apiece. They all have them listed for Door Latch Striker Plate Bolt for '53-60 trucks and one listed them for an Edsel, part #353382-S. Only one site I found so far, C&G, describes them as 5/16"-24 x 1". Sounds like the door hinge bolts to me but maybe I'm wrong. I doubt you'll find the exact bolts with the slightly convex head like the originals.

 
  #23  
Old 11-16-2014, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ryans88gt
drill and tap ... or just leave them alone and take the hinge pin out
That's what I did. Not a bad job.
 
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Whirnot
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border:1px inset"> Originally Posted by ryans88gt
drill and tap ... or just leave them alone and take the hinge pin out
</td></tr></tbody></table>
That's what I did. Not a bad job.
Me too, even though I had to heat the door pins and use my air hammer to get them to move. Darn Michigan salting the roads . . .
 
  #25  
Old 02-07-2015, 05:08 PM
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I just came in from the garage and successfully removed my doors with no injuries! I blindly sprayed pb blaster on the back of the screws a couple times, used a manual impact driver and was able to loosen 3 of the screws. I used my cordless impact driver and removed 2 more. The other screws were not budging so i grabbed my harbor freight electric impact gun and got the rest out only snapping 2 screws. Hopefully im able to remove the bottom pins. The upper hinges have the bolts for the mirrors so it shouldnt be too bad.
 
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Old 02-07-2015, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnydevil55
I just came in from the garage and successfully removed my doors with no injuries! I blindly sprayed pb blaster on the back of the screws a couple times, used a manual impact driver and was able to loosen 3 of the screws. I used my cordless impact driver and removed 2 more. The other screws were not budging so i grabbed my harbor freight electric impact gun and got the rest out only snapping 2 screws. Hopefully im able to remove the bottom pins. The upper hinges have the bolts for the mirrors so it shouldnt be too bad.


I had to use my air hammer with a pointed tip ground flat to get the hinge pins out.


Scott in Texas
 
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