The motor pull IMO is easiest with the rad support out. As for the trans pull the shifters out and slide it back 6-8". You don't have to drop it completely. If you have a leak from the front cover or oil pan pull it and do it all at once. Before you go to far do a compression test on it.

 

You can get the test strips at a local kemworth or semi-dealer

 

 

Thanks Rick!

 

I guess the only reason I'm considering pulling is the ease of installing downpupe, oil pan, dipstick tube oil cooler, replacing fuel lines and any other gaskets. But if I pull it I might as well have the heads decked andvalves checked etc. Or I'm going to takeninner fenders off front of truck and pressure wash the craps out of it and hope to see better where everything is leaking and just replace what is needed. Oil pan does have huge dent in it and dipstick leaks rarely bad. And the fact front crossmember by fan is covered in oil has me concerned that it's a front main. At that point I would pull it just to replace those thinga.

 

If you plan on boring up, is a compression test really necessary?

 

I don't think a full rebuild is in his plans

 

If in pull in engine I might as well do head gaskets.

 

I'm scared to see what the head gaskets look like after what came out of my radiator on the coolant change.

 

A compression test is a must then. Or if you are feeling like getting more information, do a leak down test. The leak down can be done with the engine already out if you got it that far.

 

I got my test strips at NAPA. I can post the part number when I get home.

 

I guess my my question is is it worth it to pull the truck engine out and do the things that I want to do or just replace the leaks thatI know of and do them in the truck.my question is for the guys that have pulled them out if I'm doingextra work just replace valve cover gaskets and rebuild all fuel bowl housing and fuel lines its just a plus that I would rebuild the oil cooler even though its not leaking as well as replacing the dented oil pan, dipstick gasket.and even do the front main seal the engine runs great the way it is it just has a few oil leaks that I would like to fix it just seems that if I have time to pull the engine I will replace every gasket in the engine and just not rebuild it

 

It's personal preference I imagine, everyone has a different way of doing things.

Personally, I would tear the engine down, might as well have brand new internals, and replacing the water pump, LPOP, and harmonic damper will be a synch. Also replace the engine mounts too(I would imagine yours are rusted out considering where the truck is from). At almost 300k, even if nothing is wrong with my engine mechanically, I know that I will have to do it eventually. In the Army its called PMCS(Preventative maintenance checks and services) so why not sooner that later, before I start building HP mods on top of it, especially when I'll be rebuilding with stage 2 injectors and E-fuel? That's my line of thinking anyway. In the end, rebuilding the engine will be cheaper than buying a new block. But do what you think it needs, in the end, it's your truck.

IF I had the time, and my own garage to work in, I would tear the cab and bed off the frame too, and sand down the surface rust, and seal the frame with a rubber coating. Luckily it was a kansas farm truck for a long time, so minimal rust since there was no on-road driving/salt exposure.

 

That is a tough call. Oem gasket sets are pricey and I don't think the aftermarket ones are of great quality. As for head gasket I would stick with oem. I think riff raff sells them for 80 bucks a side. Head gaskets are not known to go very often, in fact I think you would be hard pressed to find someone with a blown gasket on a stock motor. If you want to do the pan the only way is to pull the Motor. All of the leak point except the pan gasket and front rear cover(I don't think many people have had much problem with these either) are doable in the truck. But again, I emphasize do a compression test or leak down test before putting a lot of parts and money into this motor. Once you know that you have a healthy motor you have a base point to start with. If a full rebuild is in the cards a rebuild kit from riff raff is not all that much more than buying all the seals/ gaskets. Or you get a used motor and run with it.

 

Tonight I'm ordering o rings and gaskets. Is there any specific parts or numbers I should get. I want to replace any common fuel leak on top of engine and valve cover gasket.