53 F100 GETTING STARTED
#61
cam and convertor
if you are running a better cam that will come in around 1500- 1800, you will want to loosen up the convertor. a stock convertor locks up around 900-1000 rpm that wont let the engine get up to where the cam starts making hp, if you loosen up your convertor you wont get more than 2000-2200 out of it, most better cams will tell you a 4 barrel carb headers and loosen up the convertor, in my race cars we run a convertor that locks up around 400rpm higher than are launch rpm, im running 6000stall convertors in them. and launching at 5500, also if you have a set of p heads use them they are a copy of the gt40 head, and make decent power for a factory head.
#62
Thanks for the replies everyone.Where would you draw the line on replacing a camshaft or using the old one? I had the guy that honed my block look where i dropped it and he cleaned it up for me and said he would run it and told me to clean all of the lobes with a scotch brite pad.So i got the light rust off of everything and some spots feel real smooth but if you take a ball point pin it feels a little rough.I will be lucky to put 500 miles a year on this truck should i run it or replace it? Having a hard time making up my mind and looking for some other opinions.Thanks
#63
#66
Camshafts are extremely hard,they usually break if dropped.that pimple is on the bearing journal,and wont hurt a thing,a damaged lobe though and i would huck it.cams are cheap in the big scheme.if it was mine,i would decide if the upfront cost of a cam and lifters was worth my labor to do it if it fails later.i would run it
#67
cam
that cam has seen better days, I would not run it, check craigslist, for a good used one, I have found some real good cams on there, but do your self a favor and get a new set of lifters, 90.00 on ebay brand new, I have run several sets and they work good for a street car, your best bet would be a new cam and lifters if you can swing it. ps a roller cam is a billet cam and they will bend, a flat tappet cam is cast and they will break if dropped , george
#68
#69
Is your original broken or lost?
try using a a smaller diameter "spacer".install the needed length into the camshaft first.then the factory pin.maybe a 1/8th set screw?
Or a piece of a roll pin?how mich longer you need?
#70
Original motor was EFI going to carb so the cam pin i have now just holds the timing set and does not go through the gear far enough to hold the eccentric in place.
#72
Thanks for the offer George! I called the guy that honed my block and he had a few so i got one from him.Thanks again.
#74
So just about done with the engine rebuild but ran into a small problem.Im converting my 302 HO to carb and i have the stock timing set and a new timing cover.I installed the 1 piece fuel pump eccentric and went to put the timing cover on and there is not enough clearance to mate up to the block.Im thinking i need to get a different timing set? Can anyone verify? Thank You?
#75
I cant figure why the timing cover wouldn't fit , ill check on some of my stuff and see if the newer covers are narrower than the old ones, but I use double roller sets and never have a issue, but I run electric pumps on all my stuff, you can get small rail mounted units for $50,00 and don't need a regulator
make sure the pump eccentric is installed right, the tab on it goes in the hole for the cam pin, so make sure the eccentric is flat against the timing gear, check those things out and I will check on the thickness of the timing covers, George.
make sure the pump eccentric is installed right, the tab on it goes in the hole for the cam pin, so make sure the eccentric is flat against the timing gear, check those things out and I will check on the thickness of the timing covers, George.