53 F100 GETTING STARTED
#31
11-15-2014, 05:59 PM
Laughing Gas
5.0 High Output -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop
Those numbers E7TE-AA match yours, check the casting marks on the heads to see if they are GT40 or GT40P heads
Anything/Everything GT40P - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Those numbers E7TE-AA match yours, check the casting marks on the heads to see if they are GT40 or GT40P heads
Anything/Everything GT40P - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
#32
11-15-2014, 06:03 PM
Laughing Gas
What Cars Have 5.0 HO.And Swap Advice - Ford Mustang Forums
scroll down and you will see the list with which vehicles could have HO engines...
scroll down and you will see the list with which vehicles could have HO engines...
#33
11-15-2014, 08:31 PM
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5.0 High Output -- The Ford V-8 Engine Workshop
Those numbers E7TE-AA match yours, check the casting marks on the heads to see if they are GT40 or GT40P heads
Anything/Everything GT40P - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Those numbers E7TE-AA match yours, check the casting marks on the heads to see if they are GT40 or GT40P heads
Anything/Everything GT40P - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
#34
11-16-2014, 05:13 PM
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#35
11-16-2014, 05:26 PM
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#37
11-17-2014, 10:35 PM
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Don't know much about 302 internals, but the engine looks very clean inside (typical of EFI engines that were maintained. I wouldn't be in a hurry to rip it apart if it was mine. I'd be careful not to drop any junk into it, button it back up with some new garkets, check the compression and do a blow down test on it. You could save yourself a lot of time and money!
Like I said in another post, to me taking off the EFI and putting on a carb is like taking out your cell phone's touch screen and putting a rotary dial in it's place. How long did it take you to adapt to smart phone/computers? EFI is similar situation, a little different technology with a short learning curve, but much easier than setting up a smart phone! Carbs are a lot more complex to set up/tune properly, need regular maintenance/adjusting and waste gas and power.
There are a number of places that will clean down the wiring harness, reflash the ECU for less than the cost of a new intake and carb. After that it's just PnP.
Like I said in another post, to me taking off the EFI and putting on a carb is like taking out your cell phone's touch screen and putting a rotary dial in it's place. How long did it take you to adapt to smart phone/computers? EFI is similar situation, a little different technology with a short learning curve, but much easier than setting up a smart phone! Carbs are a lot more complex to set up/tune properly, need regular maintenance/adjusting and waste gas and power.
There are a number of places that will clean down the wiring harness, reflash the ECU for less than the cost of a new intake and carb. After that it's just PnP.
#38
11-17-2014, 10:49 PM
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You may try to PM Ryans88gt, who is a member on the board. I believe I remember him talking a bunch about the 5L mustang motors and I think he talked about reflashing the ECM's before. Here is a link to his thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1-project.html
#39
11-17-2014, 10:55 PM
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You may try to PM Ryans88gt, who is a member on the board. I believe I remember him talking a bunch about the 5L mustang motors and I think he talked about reflashing the ECM's before. Here is a link to his thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...1-project.html
#40
11-18-2014, 10:18 AM
Here's a quoted post from bjmayberry2:
Glad to hear you're on the down hill side of the wiring. I gave up and sent my stuff to a guy to lean it out for me. $250. Seemed like a deal. Haven't installed it yet but he even sent VERY detailed instructions.
If anyone's interested:
Chuck's Roadster Electronics
12438 Hillcrest Drive
Nevada City, CA 95959
530-447-7829
Great guy to work with and the harnesses 7 in total look Factory!
If anyone's interested:
Chuck's Roadster Electronics
12438 Hillcrest Drive
Nevada City, CA 95959
530-447-7829
Great guy to work with and the harnesses 7 in total look Factory!
#41
11-18-2014, 06:11 PM
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#42
11-18-2014, 06:17 PM
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Sending my engine out this week to ket hot tanked then start putting it back together.Moving on to my transmission witch is an AOD.Just got a quote from the local transmission shop to re-bearing reseal he recommended putting a shift kit in it.Total cost was $1400.00 does that seem reasonable? What do you guys think who has had their AOD's rebuilt.
Thanks
Thanks
#43
11-18-2014, 10:46 PM
Hey Cruiser,
Nice truck! That sounds like a reasonable price for your AOD re-work.
They charge $400 just to crack open a trans. here. Do you know what version of AOD Overdrive Belt you have? You want the heavy duty 2 inch variety - "A" Servo. Some of the earlier car AOD's came with a smaller 1.5 in. "C" servo. There are a lot of other upgrades you can make to your AOD - depending on how much HP you plan to run.
Baumann's site has a lot of useful info. on AOD options. We went with a Kevlar Overdrive A size belt. Be careful on the shift kits - we went with an aggressive "racing" version - ugggghhh... Very hard jarring shifts - not what you want in town. It takes a lot of patience to get the cable pressure set right - really small adjustments in the cable have a large impact in how smooth it changes gears. (Lot's of adjusting). You need to get the pressure set right or it will just crater - expensive.
Baumann Electronic Controls
Good luck over there in Oregon!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Nice truck! That sounds like a reasonable price for your AOD re-work.
They charge $400 just to crack open a trans. here. Do you know what version of AOD Overdrive Belt you have? You want the heavy duty 2 inch variety - "A" Servo. Some of the earlier car AOD's came with a smaller 1.5 in. "C" servo. There are a lot of other upgrades you can make to your AOD - depending on how much HP you plan to run.
Baumann's site has a lot of useful info. on AOD options. We went with a Kevlar Overdrive A size belt. Be careful on the shift kits - we went with an aggressive "racing" version - ugggghhh... Very hard jarring shifts - not what you want in town. It takes a lot of patience to get the cable pressure set right - really small adjustments in the cable have a large impact in how smooth it changes gears. (Lot's of adjusting). You need to get the pressure set right or it will just crater - expensive.
Baumann Electronic Controls
Good luck over there in Oregon!
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#44
11-20-2014, 06:11 PM
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Hilborn Fuel Injectors & AODE tranny controller
Hilborn Fuel Injectors
Regarding transmission:
I'm looking to couple a AODE/4R70w so that we can control the shift points. Feedback that I have received from several tran builders is that the Compushift II controller is a great way to go - plus for about $40 you can attach an A/B switch (also referred to as a "Valet Switch") so that you could have two separate shift profiles (daily driver + performance) COMPUSHIFT II ? HGM Automotive Electronics
I don't know if any of this fits into your build plan, or budget.
#45
12-09-2014, 06:48 PM
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While Im waiting to get my transmission and engine block back im going to start to run brakes lines i have a disc/drum set up my plans are to by the various straight length's from my local auto parts house and cut and flair them where needed.Have a few questions for anyone who have done this already or are in the processes of doing this.
1. When making your runs and attaching the steel lines to the frame are you using the existing holes in the frame or drilling new ones where needed to secure the line to the frame.?
2.As far as clamps goes i have been looking at the insulated but am open to suggestions? and as far as attaching the clamp to the frame are you using self tapping screws or bolts with self locking nuts?
Thanks
Brian
1. When making your runs and attaching the steel lines to the frame are you using the existing holes in the frame or drilling new ones where needed to secure the line to the frame.?
2.As far as clamps goes i have been looking at the insulated but am open to suggestions? and as far as attaching the clamp to the frame are you using self tapping screws or bolts with self locking nuts?
Thanks
Brian