Body panel welding
#1
Body panel welding
I am a beginning welder and would like to teach myself how to weld auto body panels, so obviously I have some questions.
What type of welder is best for a beginner to use?
What is the average price of this welder?
What type of cutter and grinder should I get?
Do I need and air compressor for the cutter and grinder? If so how big?
What type of welder is best for a beginner to use?
What is the average price of this welder?
What type of cutter and grinder should I get?
Do I need and air compressor for the cutter and grinder? If so how big?
#3
I would look at MIG welders. They're by far the easiest welder to use, and you can use flux core wires if you're welding out in the environment (Not recomended, but useful if you're in the woods.) MIG welders are the most forgiving for a dirtier sheet. The only problem is they're no good for alloy's or stainless. But you shouldn't be touching them if until you get some experience under your belt.
I'm not too sure on the grinder, I guess I never really thought about it. I just used what was available.
Air compressors - This will depend on the grinder. An air compressor will have a max unit/minute rating. If this is lower than what your grinder uses, then you will have to stop grinding and wait for the compressor to refill the tank. This can also cause overheating.
A starter kit for welding will probably be about $300. Gas and tank will be sold separately. A lot of what you're looking for will greatly depend on budget.
Although there is a lot of product placement in this guys videos, this was the best, in my opinion, tutorial to understand. The internet is full of great videos, and every time you search, you are guaranteed to find something new.
Good luck, and having a welder can save a few pennies once you know how to use it. Never start off with a difficult workpeice, and make sure you set the machine before welding on the vehicle.
I'm not too sure on the grinder, I guess I never really thought about it. I just used what was available.
Air compressors - This will depend on the grinder. An air compressor will have a max unit/minute rating. If this is lower than what your grinder uses, then you will have to stop grinding and wait for the compressor to refill the tank. This can also cause overheating.
A starter kit for welding will probably be about $300. Gas and tank will be sold separately. A lot of what you're looking for will greatly depend on budget.
Although there is a lot of product placement in this guys videos, this was the best, in my opinion, tutorial to understand. The internet is full of great videos, and every time you search, you are guaranteed to find something new.
Good luck, and having a welder can save a few pennies once you know how to use it. Never start off with a difficult workpeice, and make sure you set the machine before welding on the vehicle.
#4
I am a beginning welder and would like to teach myself how to weld auto body panels, so obviously I have some questions.
What type of welder is best for a beginner to use?
What is the average price of this welder?
What type of cutter and grinder should I get?
Do I need and air compressor for the cutter and grinder? If so how big?
What type of welder is best for a beginner to use?
What is the average price of this welder?
What type of cutter and grinder should I get?
Do I need and air compressor for the cutter and grinder? If so how big?
Grinders: get a 4-1/2" angle grinder (electric) for big areas. This will let you get a small air die grinder.
I like ESAB for my plasma cutter. You will need an air compressor.
I also recommend at least a 125psi/10 gallon air compressor. Bigger is better.
Also, safety gear. Don't skimp on that. Good auto darkening helmet, cutting glasses/goggles, leathers, gloves. The more you pay for these, the longer they will protect you.
That's what I can tell you. -US Army Allied Trades Specialist (machinist/welder).
#5
Not that I discourage learning to weld or buying tools but you could buy half a dozen replacement panels for the cost of all you will need to do this job or pay someone to do it 3 times. If you won't be using the equipment for other jobs, it just isn't worth it.
Flux wire (.030) will work for sheet but you'd be better off using gas and .023 wire. Either way, it will take practice to weld sheet without warping it.
Flux wire (.030) will work for sheet but you'd be better off using gas and .023 wire. Either way, it will take practice to weld sheet without warping it.
#6
Not that I discourage learning to weld or buying tools but you could buy half a dozen replacement panels for the cost of all you will need to do this job or pay someone to do it 3 times. If you won't be using the equipment for other jobs, it just isn't worth it.
Flux wire (.030) will work for sheet but you'd be better off using gas and .023 wire. Either way, it will take practice to weld sheet without warping it.
Flux wire (.030) will work for sheet but you'd be better off using gas and .023 wire. Either way, it will take practice to weld sheet without warping it.
#7
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#8
I just bought my first welding setup. I don't weld. Have never welded, but wanted to get into it. I bought one of those 90 amp flux core welders from harbor Freight. More or less just to tinker with to see if I could do it. I also went ahead and bought the cart, auto darkening hood, and a few other things. All in all, I've got about $200 - $225 in it. Including some good Lincoln NR-211 wire, chipping hammer, wire brushes, gloves, etc.
Some say I'm an idiot for buying a Flux core welder, or that it's a Harbor Freight POS. Some say that's better than what they had when they started welding. Regardless, I got it because of the videos I saw, and the reviews I read online.. Including on the popular welding forums. If you go the route I did, just keep in mind that a Flux Core welder needs to be DCEN (DC Electrode Negative). The Harbor Freight 90 AMP Flux Core welder is not. It's AC, meaning it alternates DC Negative and DC Positive. It will cause more splatter than actual DCEN Flux Core Welders. One option you have with that welder is there is a way to convert it to a true DCEN Flux Core welder. There are some videos online, and multiple websites showing the parts needed and how to do it using a bridge rectifier and a capacitor, and optionally create an induction coil. I've already ordered the parts and will modify mine once they arrive.
For me, I chose this route cause it was the cheapest way to get into welding. Once I get better at it, I plan on getting a MIG, but until then, this little cheap guy works perfectly fine. Don't let people say that Flux Core welding is bad either. It's all in how you use it, prep your material, the wire you use, etc..
I am no welder by any means, but all I can recommend is that you start watching video after video on welding. Also hit some of the welding forums out there. There is a wealth of information on the net. This is what I did, and now I feel I really understand so much more about welding and what is required for each project. Just like most real welders will tell you... It's not the welder that makes good welds. It's the person using it.
Some say I'm an idiot for buying a Flux core welder, or that it's a Harbor Freight POS. Some say that's better than what they had when they started welding. Regardless, I got it because of the videos I saw, and the reviews I read online.. Including on the popular welding forums. If you go the route I did, just keep in mind that a Flux Core welder needs to be DCEN (DC Electrode Negative). The Harbor Freight 90 AMP Flux Core welder is not. It's AC, meaning it alternates DC Negative and DC Positive. It will cause more splatter than actual DCEN Flux Core Welders. One option you have with that welder is there is a way to convert it to a true DCEN Flux Core welder. There are some videos online, and multiple websites showing the parts needed and how to do it using a bridge rectifier and a capacitor, and optionally create an induction coil. I've already ordered the parts and will modify mine once they arrive.
For me, I chose this route cause it was the cheapest way to get into welding. Once I get better at it, I plan on getting a MIG, but until then, this little cheap guy works perfectly fine. Don't let people say that Flux Core welding is bad either. It's all in how you use it, prep your material, the wire you use, etc..
I am no welder by any means, but all I can recommend is that you start watching video after video on welding. Also hit some of the welding forums out there. There is a wealth of information on the net. This is what I did, and now I feel I really understand so much more about welding and what is required for each project. Just like most real welders will tell you... It's not the welder that makes good welds. It's the person using it.
#9
Don't go cheap on a Mig
I am by no means an expert but I do have an old buzz box and a Airco ( Esab ) mig/tig/stick DC welder.
In it's time, the Esab I own was a very expensive unit ( I got it for nothing because the factory I worked for was told it was not worth repair since the 1 year warranty had just run up ... I figured out is was a $5 power resistor).
It is great at MIG welding carbon steel ( actually has a computer on board that sets itself up for the thickness of wire, material to be welded and type of gas) .... and does a good job as a DC stick welder.
Even though I have TIG torch for it, it is not easy to use. First the foot control either raises or lowers the amperage ( you rock your foot on it ). When you hit the correct amperage, you have to lift you foot .... very odd feeling. A "good" TIG welder has a pedal like an accelerator ... wherever you stop pushing that is where it holds the amperage. I am probably not explaining this well but after using my friends Miller Syncrowave ( very, very expensive) you realize the difference right away.
Also, my unit has no "quick start" feature ( basically high voltage that jumps the gap to start the arc ). Instead you need to drag the tungsten rod on the metal. This is very hard for a beginner ( and even the average welder) to do since touching the tungsten to the metal while welding contaminates the rod.
Anyway, in my opinion, unless you are willing to spend a lot of money on a good TIG welder, just stick to a MIG. They are much more forgiving so even a moderately priced on will do a decent job.
If you can afford it, stay away from flux wire ( although it is a considerably cheaper setup ) ... go with a gas set-up. You will be much more pleased with the results.
Finally, I completely agree when it comes to compressors, bigger is better.
For years I used a single stage Sears compressor ... 125 psi, 25 gal, 5 hp ( well really if you look at the amperage 3 hp ) ... did a fair job on tools but many times I had to stop and wait for pressure to build back up. This is especially true when doing things like sand blasting.
Mike
In it's time, the Esab I own was a very expensive unit ( I got it for nothing because the factory I worked for was told it was not worth repair since the 1 year warranty had just run up ... I figured out is was a $5 power resistor).
It is great at MIG welding carbon steel ( actually has a computer on board that sets itself up for the thickness of wire, material to be welded and type of gas) .... and does a good job as a DC stick welder.
Even though I have TIG torch for it, it is not easy to use. First the foot control either raises or lowers the amperage ( you rock your foot on it ). When you hit the correct amperage, you have to lift you foot .... very odd feeling. A "good" TIG welder has a pedal like an accelerator ... wherever you stop pushing that is where it holds the amperage. I am probably not explaining this well but after using my friends Miller Syncrowave ( very, very expensive) you realize the difference right away.
Also, my unit has no "quick start" feature ( basically high voltage that jumps the gap to start the arc ). Instead you need to drag the tungsten rod on the metal. This is very hard for a beginner ( and even the average welder) to do since touching the tungsten to the metal while welding contaminates the rod.
Anyway, in my opinion, unless you are willing to spend a lot of money on a good TIG welder, just stick to a MIG. They are much more forgiving so even a moderately priced on will do a decent job.
If you can afford it, stay away from flux wire ( although it is a considerably cheaper setup ) ... go with a gas set-up. You will be much more pleased with the results.
Finally, I completely agree when it comes to compressors, bigger is better.
For years I used a single stage Sears compressor ... 125 psi, 25 gal, 5 hp ( well really if you look at the amperage 3 hp ) ... did a fair job on tools but many times I had to stop and wait for pressure to build back up. This is especially true when doing things like sand blasting.
Mike
#11
I am a beginning welder and would like to teach myself how to weld auto body panels, so obviously I have some questions.
What type of welder is best for a beginner to use?
What is the average price of this welder?
What type of cutter and grinder should I get?
Do I need and air compressor for the cutter and grinder? If so how big?
What type of welder is best for a beginner to use?
What is the average price of this welder?
What type of cutter and grinder should I get?
Do I need and air compressor for the cutter and grinder? If so how big?
#12
cut off saw for most stock ...
OK ... I love a plasma cutter and I can't tell you the number of times I have used my torches but honestly if you are mainly building projects from stock steel ( angle, flat bar, square tubing, ..... ) an abrasive cut off saw is wonderful!
I have build various projects ( for example 70 ft of railing ) with only my MIG, an electric 4 1/2" grinder ( actually a couple .. one with a grinding disk and on with a flapper wheel ), a die grinder ( to get into tight places ) and a cheap 15 year old Harbor Freight cut off saw.
I am in the middle of converting a forklift into an elevator. My MIG is in storage and I am getting by with a 28 year old buzz box, my grinders and the same old cut off saw.
I have used the 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel to take off body panels and had no real problems. The best ( in my opinion ) was a hand held shear ( scissor type I guess they are called ) I borrowed from a friend to try. I liked them because they created no heat and thus didn't warp the metal. Could not not get in every spot but for long cuts it was great.
Mike
I have build various projects ( for example 70 ft of railing ) with only my MIG, an electric 4 1/2" grinder ( actually a couple .. one with a grinding disk and on with a flapper wheel ), a die grinder ( to get into tight places ) and a cheap 15 year old Harbor Freight cut off saw.
I am in the middle of converting a forklift into an elevator. My MIG is in storage and I am getting by with a 28 year old buzz box, my grinders and the same old cut off saw.
I have used the 4 1/2" grinder with a cut off wheel to take off body panels and had no real problems. The best ( in my opinion ) was a hand held shear ( scissor type I guess they are called ) I borrowed from a friend to try. I liked them because they created no heat and thus didn't warp the metal. Could not not get in every spot but for long cuts it was great.
Mike
#13
To jake_c_19: go ahead and invest in a beginner guide to welding with a project list. It will give you lots of stuff to practice on before you jump to body panels. As someone else said: take a body worker course too. And if you are feeling really determined, set up a home paint booth so you can paint your home decor projects and vehicles. I assure you the SO in your life will want painted shelves.
#14
When I started, I found a used Hobart 140 Mig and taught myself using that. For body panels, I used .024 wire. 75/25 gas mix (argon/co2). If you can afford it, a MillerMatic welder will last you a lifetime and hold it's value. It takes the guess work out of voltage / wire feed settings and lets you concentrate on learning to weld. If you have the wrong settings, you'll be chasing ghosts.
For body panels, get some scrap pieces of similar gauge and practice. Don't try to run a continuous bead. Use a series of tack welds, spacing each one as far from the last as possible, take your time and let it cool every couple of welds. If it gets too hot, it will warp and cause issues.
The key with welding body panels is patience. You need the right settings and technique so you don't burn through and / or warp the part.
The other thing I'd suggest is a good auto-darkening helmet. I started with a cheap HF one and I couldn't get it set right to allow me to see the weld puddle. I use a Jackson now. Also a Millermatic 211 MVP.
Eastwood has some decent welders; I have a plasma cutter and TIG welder from them.
The key is good equipment and practice. You want to be able to practice and not have poor equipment clouding things.
For body panels, get some scrap pieces of similar gauge and practice. Don't try to run a continuous bead. Use a series of tack welds, spacing each one as far from the last as possible, take your time and let it cool every couple of welds. If it gets too hot, it will warp and cause issues.
The key with welding body panels is patience. You need the right settings and technique so you don't burn through and / or warp the part.
The other thing I'd suggest is a good auto-darkening helmet. I started with a cheap HF one and I couldn't get it set right to allow me to see the weld puddle. I use a Jackson now. Also a Millermatic 211 MVP.
Eastwood has some decent welders; I have a plasma cutter and TIG welder from them.
The key is good equipment and practice. You want to be able to practice and not have poor equipment clouding things.
#15
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FcE7Mgod6isAFw
Is this a good welder? And is LMC truck a good place to order panels from?
Is this a good welder? And is LMC truck a good place to order panels from?