I had a real good look under there and the pass-through mount lock is surrounded by rubber. If it's loose, it's doing a good job of hiding. I tried to pry the engine up, but I couldn't see movement. I'm guessing all that weight would need very little movement to shake the truck up. None of this is confirmed until they get in there and pull the parts out - this is one of those jobs (and time of the year) where I reach for the ol' Buck$Zooka.

 

Do you have a cherry picker? (If not, it's another tool!) There are a couple of lift points on top of the motor you can use to hold it up, if you don't want to jack from the bottom.

Mark

 

Nope - no cherry picker. My rafters aren't all that strong either.

 

They can be rented. Just an FYI, I'm not saying you need to.

 

Unfortunately, I have a deadline for getting this done - and my time is used up. I am now at the mercy of the shop, hoping this gets resolved before the deadline.

 

Interested in that Swamps report. Been curious for years. Will be nice to hear it from someone who will really test it.

 

Rich!!!!


You still think you have mount problems? Power brake the hell out of it in forward and reverse in 4 Lo. If u have a problem with the mounts, you'll see your hood make a scoop that wasn't there.




Denny

 

Doing that in 4 low is just asking to pretzel a driveshaft.

 

It's been powerbraked (up to 2000 RPM with zero shake) while the mechanic watched the mounts. That is the only time I can get up to that RPM in gear without the shake.

That's already been done in the race tune at WOT with 2WD. Traction bars should prevent a repeat - and staying the hell away from the race tune.

 

I have a separate thread for that - [LINK]

 

Subscribed...

 

I hadn't seen it thx

 

Ditto......oops supposed to be on diff thread don't know how that happened

 

New intel!

OK... there had been intermittent small dips in the the driver-side EGT gauge, and it coincided with one of the different vibrations/shakes going on in the truck. With all the miles Stinky has accumulated lately, the intermittent dip was finally consistent any time the truck warmed up to full temp. Somewhere in all the advice I had been receiving, somebody knew about the dip in the EGTs and suggested checking the manifold temps for each cylinder. The IR thermometer wouldn't go that high, so it was preventing taking that step.

With the recent discovery of a laser thermometer for about a third of the price of other units, the Buck$Zooka was in quick-draw mode. Cylinder #2 (the suspected cylinder) showed 40 degrees lower than all the other cylinders. #9 injector to the rescue. The test drive won't occur until tomorrow.

 

Rich, before you swap, ohm out that stick from the 42 pin and see if it's any different than the others. In my quest to cure my intermittent rough running I used the Ir thermometer and found #2 cooler than the rest. Even though I had ohmed them before, I did it again and found 2 sticks on the drivers bank at 6 and 9 ohms. I pulled the VC and the sticks ohmed good. I ohmed from the 42 pin to the inj connector and all checked out. Put everything back together and had good ohm readings again. Now my idle is smooth more often than it's rough. Time for some new UVCHs.