Engine tick. Goes away when warm
#1
Engine tick. Goes away when warm
I have a "tick" somewhere around the #1 cylinder. The colder it is the louder is is. Once the EOT gets up around 100deg, you can hardly hear it from the cab. The other morning the EOT was about 28 and it sounded about like a loose injector, it was pretty loud. Unfortunately I was so worried about trying to figure out where it was coming from I forgot to record it.
It has had this tick since I got the truck back in April or May, but since the injectors were worn enough that it wouldn't start under 70EOT, it wasn't that loud, and I thought it was an injector since it went away as the truck warmed up. Also my EGT's are about 100deg higher on that side until it gets up to operating temp, then it's only about 50deg difference.
I was going to pop the VC's this week to see what I could see, but I havn't had time. Any Ideas? Only thing i can think is a bad lifter. A bent rod would be a constant tick I would think. I have a couple videos I'll get uploaded as soon as they are done.
It has had this tick since I got the truck back in April or May, but since the injectors were worn enough that it wouldn't start under 70EOT, it wasn't that loud, and I thought it was an injector since it went away as the truck warmed up. Also my EGT's are about 100deg higher on that side until it gets up to operating temp, then it's only about 50deg difference.
I was going to pop the VC's this week to see what I could see, but I havn't had time. Any Ideas? Only thing i can think is a bad lifter. A bent rod would be a constant tick I would think. I have a couple videos I'll get uploaded as soon as they are done.
#2
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#3
I would think a bad lifter or rod would be more of a slap or knocking sound. It could also be a small exhaust leak at the head. Gasket expands as it warms up and closes it off.
A loose or worn injector could also do a "tick" sound as well so you may be on the right track. Also, when you have the valve cover off, run the motor a bit to see if oil is being pushed through the ports and flow as they should. Cold oil takes longer to get moving so that as well could be it. And don't forget to check your oil level.
A loose or worn injector could also do a "tick" sound as well so you may be on the right track. Also, when you have the valve cover off, run the motor a bit to see if oil is being pushed through the ports and flow as they should. Cold oil takes longer to get moving so that as well could be it. And don't forget to check your oil level.
#4
I would think a bad lifter or rod would be more of a slap or knocking sound. It could also be a small exhaust leak at the head. Gasket expands as it warms up and closes it off.
A loose or worn injector could also do a "tick" sound as well so you may be on the right track. Also, when you have the valve cover off, run the motor a bit to see if oil is being pushed through the ports and flow as they should. Cold oil takes longer to get moving so that as well could be it. And don't forget to check your oil level.
A loose or worn injector could also do a "tick" sound as well so you may be on the right track. Also, when you have the valve cover off, run the motor a bit to see if oil is being pushed through the ports and flow as they should. Cold oil takes longer to get moving so that as well could be it. And don't forget to check your oil level.
#6
Oh... I so hear that "tink". That noise is like a cheese grater on my spine (after my cross-country adventure with loose injectors). I'd be surprised if it's not a loose injector, but usually it doesn't go away when warm, you get a ton of smoke at cold start-up, and you get bucking at light acceleration with a loose injector. Something else could cause the same tink, but I don't know what it is.
#7
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#8
#9
I did compression test before I replaced the Injectors and they were all right around 375 with a cold engine. EOT was probably 80deg.
It will probably be a couple weeks before I can get the VC's off. I don't like working in the drive when its this cold, and I have some things to get done around the house. But I'll report back when I do. Thank you guys for the help.
#10
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Also should I change the o-rings if I swap injectors? no longer that they have been in there?
Also should I change the o-rings if I swap injectors? no longer that they have been in there?
#12
#13
Can't get the audio to work, prolly just my cranky laptop. I see two trucks in your sig, but the problem child is the AT with PIS 160/30s, right?
The #1 injector solenoid is light color, and the #8 looks dark like the other 7. I realize color does not necessarily mean anything, but it looks like you put the long lead #8 injector in the #1 hole.
The #1 injector solenoid is light color, and the #8 looks dark like the other 7. I realize color does not necessarily mean anything, but it looks like you put the long lead #8 injector in the #1 hole.
#14
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