Thanks. You're the motivation for me to bother adding details. The best thing you can do for yourself though is buy the factory shop manual for your truck. It explains everything.

 

According to research, ford didn't make the phenolic gear prior to 77. Check the tops of your pistons to see if they are over-size, and check your rod and mail bearings on the back side. Also, are there marks, numbers or indentations on the main and rod caps? I would guess it's been rebuilt. Of course I could be wrong.

You might want to ck (what is the site?) Power Nation TV for their video on a 300 they rebuilt.

I would add that your t. gears appear to be the fine tooth ones that are nearly impossible to come by. Supposedly they are very quiet. I have the coarser type, and never noticed a sound. BTW, I would take it to a shop that specializes in performance work. The difference between a so so shop and a good one is about 10 psi oil pressure. Do you want 10 psi at hot idle or 20 psi?

 

I see no indication whatsoever that this engine has ever been rebuilt. The bores are within a thousandth of 4", the crank has never been turned, there are no marks on any parts, everything looks original, all parts including bearings are FoMoCo, the engine has only 75,000 miles on it...

It did however have a 240 head so someone, somewhere swapped one on.

It is a fine tooth gear set. My research indicated that the HD 300 got the fine tooth metal gear. My research also says the HD 300 was no longer produced mid-'70s. It seems we have conflicting research. Maybe we can resolve this?

And yes the gear was very quiet. If you'd have asked me pre-teardown what material the gear is, I'd have figured nylon fiber. No noise at all.

The shop I took it to to have it hot tanked was recommended by a friend who's had a few race engines built there. So far I like the vibe of the place but I want to check it out more before I trust the guy with all my parts.

 

Oh my goodness! AbandonedBronco, are you the moderator? Can I tell this guy to kiss my white Irish backside?

Good ... luck, Bud.

 

Did I miss something?

 

That's a good idea. I don't have a set yet, but a quick search says I can get a digital version and a fomoco master parts catalog for $55-60. I think I just found something for the holiday wish list

I did score a cherry picker for cheap off craigslist today. Its a HF special but should do the trick.

looking forward to more pics when you get your block back from the machine shop.

 

I personally prefer a physical manual as I do not have a computer in the garage, so walking in and out of the house to double check something on the manual is a pain.

The block is only in for a hot tanking right now, so at most all you're going to see is a clean block. I kind of used it as an ice breaker for this shop. I'd like to try and talk them into letting me take a peek at all their machinery. I used to do machining so I have a fascination with mills and lathes.

I'm not going to have any actual machine work done until I make a decision on what direction I want to go with this engine. It would be nice if FordSix.com wasn't 404'd.

I'm also right now working on cleaning up the garage, and by that I mean my dad's mess. The guy's a hoarder and can't part with things so I have to do it for him. I just bought a bunch of shelves and once everything is clean I'll buy a bunch of fluorescent lights because the lighting in my garage is TERRIBLE which makes it really hard to work on things like engines or, down the road, bodywork.

 

I use my Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 for this. You can also use the camera flash as a flashlight, very handy.

 

I recently was in the market for shop lights .. I came across a LED replacement for the traditional double tube 4' florescent light .. They put out way more light they use less electricity and last a very long time .. The price is about $55 .. They are worth every penny ..

Utilitech Pro LED Shop Light



LED Shop Light (Common: 4-ft; Actual: 4-ft)

• Energy saving LED uses 25% less electricity than a comparable 2-light T8 fluorescent light fixture
• LED lasts longer - rated to last 35,000 hours
• Produces 3,800 lumens of brightness using only 48 watts
• 48 watt integrated LED - no light bulbs will need to be replaced
• This product is easy to install
• Gives off bright white light that is perfect for detailed tasks (4,000k CCT)
• UL rated for damp locations
• 3 year limited warranty
• Silver metal housing with black endcaps

 

I was just going to get a bunch of quadruple tube fluorescents but those LED guys sound cool. Probably really expensive around where I live though. I'll check them out after work. I'm on lunch break.

 

I am going through a similar build on a 66 300. Also turns out I have the 240 head and looks as if it was milled .015. do you happen to know what the pin size was on the stock 300 rods? I have a new set of forged 351 pistons that are only .012 taller CR than stock 300 pistons and have a .912" pin. Hoping these will work since I have had them new in the box for 12 years and the intended engine is long gone. Thanks for the awesome build up thread of the 300.

 

65-67 300 rods were .912" pins.
68+ 300 rods .975" pins.

If you have later rods just install a thicker bushing to get them down to fit the 351's pins.

 

Beat me to it. If you have the C6TE rods you should be good. As mentioned, C8TE rods have a bigger pin diameter but that can be changed.

 

Stock rods from 1966! Just need to have the pistons cut .012" off the top and good to go with Forged slugs. I new I kept those for a reason Thanks to both of you for the responses

 

Don't cut the tops. You will still be below the deck surface and it will still run on pump gas.