ok how would i do that?

 

Another tip for headers. Put an H-pipe (or x-pipe) in the exhaust. It stabilizes everything. Any wobble is hard on the header gaskets.

 

1st maybe remove the starter to make sure somehow it's bendix drive didn't bind up on the flywheel.
If you take the spark plugs out temporarilly there will no longer be compression in the engine. So it should spin easilly. You might even be able to to grab the v-belt(s) and spin the engine be moving it(them). If not locate the big o' bolt in the middle of the crank pulley and turn that. If you still can't turn the engine then it's tied up so the starter can't turn it either.

 

if the weather allows i'll crawl under and pop out the starter and see.

 

Good job, but save yourself a little work there. Before removing the starter, check the easy stuff like battery cables, posts and grounds. Also clean any oil off the block-ground and the starter posts (you know its there, lol). Leaking oil is your enemy here, it will short an otherwise good ground. It takes time and dough to keep these old trucks on the road, but keep at it, you'll reap the benefits soon enough.

 

I back tracked your thread and was wondering since it over heated as you saying it needed the air to be bled out of the block.

Here's a tip is by drilling a small hole like 1/16" just in from the gasket an into the flow of coolant and then clocking the hole at 12 o:clock will let the air out and fill the block with coolant..

An ez mistake to make is putting in the "Thermostat in backwards" and as you know will cause it to over heat.

Most thermostat will open when the block reaches about 200*-210 with an air lock and should not over heat to be that noticeable other then needing more coolant in the top tank.

The correct way the thermostat fits into the little housing is with the temp coil spring facing the block Right!

Just a though to recheck your memory banks as the way you installed it.

You could put a socket& breaker bar on your crank pulley bolt and try turning the crankshaft. And if starter is jammed it may release and free it up.

Just some food for thought!
Orich

 

Have you bypassed or jumper wired your starter solenoid relay? The one where your positive battery cable hooks to one side and on the other side it runs down to your starter. They can go out and all you will hear is a click from it. Also you could try acouple taps on the starter with a hammer to see if it starts working again. Easy things to do before you start removing parts.

 

Where did you get that instrument cluster? Mine has the woodgrain, but is so bad you can't read the guages and the chrome is mostly gone. In Az, we have no rust, but plastic dies from the heat.

 

If I remember another one of our members here had it laying around so he sent it off to where it would be put to good use. These gauge cluster bezels are reproduced and can be bought from numerous of this sites sponsors. Check them out.

 

Thanks for the info

 

Yep. That was me. I had bought it off ebay years ago. Before I became a member here and found out about www.dennis-carpenter.com. It was a DC part the seller had bought from DC and flipped it on EBAY. DC carries them with and without the woodgrain.

 

Yup I remember her gauge cluster refreshening thread where you's made a deal with the bezel. I wonder how many FTE'rs were spotted in the nail polish isle's after haha

 

Yep. I gave it to her in thanks for her Service. When I read the above the mental picture hit. A bunch of 'em down the same isle. I busted up!

 

Thanks for the info

 

Ok i need your help I've made one of the two sets of turn signal and shift *****. but now i'm having trouble deciding lol

this set is a walnut set
Chess Queen for the shifter
and the Rook for the turn signal.



Currently i'm working on the more classic design
as you can see here for the shifter. I need to take and drill the hole a little bigger to accept the screw chuck so I can start on the hollowing the sides to get the concave shape of the original