sam here are some photos of how i did mine... i have the belt off right now because i had to install a heater core and had to take out the underdash A/C unit so figured why turn the compressor until spring when i re-instal thew a/c

 

The name should not make any different with the torque specs, goes by bolt sizes.

The three 3/8" 30-35

The center large bolt is also listed in the manual
a long with all the rest time to but one.. Most 6 cyl.(85-100lbs)

Orich

 

UPDATE Last nite could not see well enough to follow across the book column and gave you the wrong specs on the pulley torque for the 1966-71 300cu I-6 130-145lbs

Sorry, for the wrong info first..
Orich

 

I have installed the 3 sheave pulley. The last sheave is 1/2 inch and I be leave I will be able to get it to line up to the compressor. I should be able to run a belt right to the 3rd sheave from the compressor, right? I can pivot the compressor with the bracket that I installed on the original bracket. I can get away without using an idler pulley or tensioner. Right? Or, am I missing something?

 

I'm not using an idler pulley either as, I'm running off the water pump outter belt pulley lines up good with the Sanden Compressor.

I fab up the York mounting base with the Sanden with a slide adjustment plate.
But mine is on a FE
Orich

 

Here are a few pictures of the condenser documenting how the condenser was mounted. I was able to locate some brackets off of a mid to late 70's truck and used them to mount the condenser (driver's side) and used the radiator mounting points to mount the condenser on the passenger side.

 

I scrapped the idea of using the York to Sanden pivot bracket that I found on Ebay -- it didn't go out far enough--couldn't get the compressor to line up with the crank pulley. However, I found a a/c compressor bracket off of a 77 truck and I am just using the upper part of the mounting bracket/mounts a sanden compressor. This will sit on the original ac bracket that is correct for the 1967 model years that I found. I will be able to make the Sanden compressor pivot while using some other brackets that I found. I will post some more pictures in a few days.

 

My base of Sanden bracket only move about 1.5 in the York mounting bracket.
I'm using a pretty small belt for a tight fit.

As, I did not like the adjustable tiling Sanden brackets that was offered almost 10 yrs ago so make my own.
Orich
The pix not that clear tho.

 

that looks a lot like the condenser i used in mine...

71f100installingAC001.jpg Photo by rcplumley | Photobucket

 

Well, I have been reading a lot of different installation instructions from different aftermarket vendors and I was wondering, do I need a binary switch? What does the binary switch do? Anyone have a good set of instructions (to address the hoses/lines that I am going to be running) that may apply for my set up.

 

A binary switch is essentially a low-pressure switch. When pressure on the low side drops enough it will close the circuit and send power to the compressor clutch for it to engage. Whether you need it or not is entirely dependent on what system you have.

 

I have the components mapped out and I have a pretty good feel on how to run the hoses/lines now. At this point, I am more concerned about using an old evaporator with flare fittings and the new stuff (compressor, drier, condenser) that uses O-ring. I talked to the guys at Vintage Air and they indicated that the flare type fittings are not good for R134. I checked with a local ac guy that is going to crimp my hoses and he indicated that he uses R134 with flare fittings all of the time and even showed me a Gremlin that he installed both flare and O-ring type fittings. Anyone try to use R134 with flare fittings at the evaporator? I guess the concern, if I understood the Vintage Air guy correctly, is that R134 is a lighter gas than R12 and as a result, it is more susceptible of escaping.

I guess I can drain out the oil on the compressor and use R12 but I would rather not.

Anyone want to weigh in on this?

 

I think O-ring connections on A/C systems came about because they're quicker to put together on an assembly line --slide the connections together and slap the clip over the two joints, done.

From a durbility stand point though, I think the screwed flared connections are better.

Brake systems deal with high pressure (much higher than an A/C). Ever see any O-rings in a brake system? Under normal circumstances, a brake system would see pressures of several hundred pounds (pounds per square inch) to over 1,500 PSI in a panic stop situation.

Their flared connections are subjected to a lot of pressure yet, they rarely ever leak.

 

This. All of this. Flared connections are the only thing that can handle extreme pressures. For example: the diesel engines I work on peak at roughly 26,000 PSI in the common rail. That type of connections do they use? Flare. There is not an o-ring in the world that can contain that kind of pressure. Also a bonus, no o-rings to replace when you disconnect an A/C line for servicing.

 

Okay, things are progressing with the ac install. Need some wiring to be done and charging the system. Here are some photos: