T-18 Transmission Fluid
#2
From Novak:
When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment.
When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment.
#3
From Novak:
When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment.
When filling your T18 / T19 with gear oil, we recommend that you select a conventional mineral oil or a para-synthetic in lieu of a full synthetic oil. Properly assembled manual gearboxes do not have the thermal strains seen by combustion engines or hypoid gears. Synthetic fluid in these gearboxes, while not harmful, is probably an economic waste.
Hypoid gear oil is sulphurized higher than transmission oil and can be mildly corrosive to the non-ferrous alloys used for synchros, bushings and thrust washers in these transmissions.
An 80W-90, API-GL5 or MT-1 rated fluid is very good. Some claim faster shifts from using a 50W engine oil in their transmission and we do not consider this to be contraindicated unless you operate your vehicle in a very warm environment.
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#8
That's apparently what the last owner did in mine...I've had it less then a year...you can find gear oil all day long at Napa, Autozone, Oreilly, etc...its just EXPENSIVE for the name brand stuff...but, like I said though...I went w/the Napa Brand Gear Oil for less then $15 per gallon. Can't beat that!
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With a large screwdriver (or with the shifter, if it's still in place) flick the three selector forks in the lid into the neutral position.....so they all line up centrally in a row, when you look at them down through the shifter tower.
Then, in the trans, position the gears (including reverse) into their neutral positions & carefully slip the cover back on, guiding the forks into the correct grooves. This might work on the first try, or it might take a few attempts........just take your time.
Put a couple of bolts into the lid & try selecting each gear (again including reverse) before you bolt it up fully.
Be careful not to let the 1/4" pin that engages into the shifter (through the side of the shifter tower, under the cap) drop down into the trans as you re-assemble it.
Then, in the trans, position the gears (including reverse) into their neutral positions & carefully slip the cover back on, guiding the forks into the correct grooves. This might work on the first try, or it might take a few attempts........just take your time.
Put a couple of bolts into the lid & try selecting each gear (again including reverse) before you bolt it up fully.
Be careful not to let the 1/4" pin that engages into the shifter (through the side of the shifter tower, under the cap) drop down into the trans as you re-assemble it.