Was working on deleting the EGR today when I noticed a small problem. On the fuel injector there is a blue nipple which tees off and connects all the other fuel injectors together. It appears that one of the blue nipples is cracked and one of the Ts has broken off in the connecting line. Does this require me to replace the entire injector? Also, reading through the coffee table booklet it seems that each injector is coded? Is this something I can't do DIY?


Line is completely separated


Broken T. You can see a hint of the blue nipple the line connects to.


A black T connects to this

 

Dude goodluck! I ran into the same issue, but I could see clearly where my injector was cracked and leaking fuel. I ended up having to replace the injector and the high pressure fuel return line(The thing your gonna have to replace). NO you can NOT do the repair yourself unless you have an IDS system. ALSO, this is VERY important. When you get your truck to the dealer, TAKE YOUR TUNER OFF. If he programs the IQA code for the new injector it can brick your tuner. Also that high pressure fuel return line, your going to have to buy it's all one piece and is a mother****er to get snaked in there. We did it in my driveway and it take both of us the better part of 2 hours. Use White Bear Lake Ford and order the parts. I can't tell which side that is, but look at the coffee table and see which cylinder it is, but I the high pressure fuel return line is
PN:BC3Z-9A564-B

Your injector part number will be dependent on what cylinder it is, they are NOT all the same. Call White Bear Lake Ford Parts, ask for Pat, tell him Matt sent you.

 

Thanks man! I ordered a rebuilt fuel injector for $400, I asked them about coding the IDS system and they said I should be able to drop it in. Can anybody confirm this? If I need to recode, I'll return the truck to stock. The truck should go into limp mode without the EGR and DPF, but will it still run?

Thanks for the PN for the fuel return, sucks you have to buy the whole thing :/ How does the fuel return T attach to the injector nipple? I didn't see anything to press to release, and I don't want to buy any more injectors Is the high pressure return line the same on each bank? I'm replacing fuel injector for cyl #5, passenger side.

Thanks in advance.

 

Just adding some more info here.

Spoke to H&S regarding my tune with the DPF+EGR delete. If I flash back to stock, the truck will run for a few seconds and then shut off. Not very useful. I told the tech that I needed to recode a fuel injector and he said to just have whoever is coding to proceed as normal. If anything goes wrong, I can just reflash the H&S tune. No worries about bricking.

 

#5 is the first one on the driver side. The 6.7 cylinders are numbered like FORD engines.

 

Whoops, #6 is what I meant, thanks for the correction. Do you know anything about the coding?

 

Yep! Each injector has an "IQA" number on the top. Whichever cylinder you put that injector in, you have to use the IDS to program that number into the pcm memory. There should be a decal on the crankcase vent assembly that has all of the IQA numbers of the injectors currently installed. The IQA numbers represent the "Flow rate" of each injector. The pcm can adjust on/off time appropriately.

 

 

 

That's what I've read too, I was just curious if what the shop I spoke to (who rebuilds injectors) held any weight that you can just drop any injector in. Kind of disappointing they would just say something like that, I'm sure lots of people would just take what they said as fact without followup. My local indy has the IDS system and can recode. Thanks for the info!

 

Write that number down on more than one piece of paper before you drop it in the hole.

 

Undo the tuner before you program the injector. Trust me, I know what H & S is saying, but I am just giving you my recommendations from a SMT. Yes that part number is for the whole thing. YOU CAN NOT just drop the injector in, it requires like vloney said to program it into the PCM. The truck will idle fine without the tuner hooked to it, it just won't move.

So I would attack it like this.

1. Untune your truck.
2. Put injector in, reflash the PCM with the correct IQA code.
3. Take off the old high pressure return line, and replace, Take LOTS of pictures so you know where everything goes, if you don't get it exactly right you will be ok, but you want it as close as possible.
4. Tune truck.
5. Purge all the air from the fuel system by turning the fuel system on and off atleast 8-10 times. It took more for me. When you try to start the truck it will just try to fire over and over again and finally start.
6. Once you purge all the air, start the truck and let it idle and check for any leaks.

What happened to you happened exactly to me, so don't feel bad. If you help do anybody else's I recommend removing the top intake, it will let you remove the EGR a lot easier, without banging everything else.