I got brave and thought I would change out a noisy and leaky water pump in my 1988 ford E 350 RV,it has the 460 motor in it
long story short I broke off the top bolt in the water pump which wasn't
so bad as I just drilled the broken stud out using the water pump still in place as a drill bit guide so all I have to do with that one is just thread it.
but then I went on to some of the lower bolt and I have found a few others that will not budge.as you can see in the pics I am soaking them cotton ***** with penetrating oil over night in a desperate attempt to loosen the bolts but from what I have found on the net so far suggest the 460 motor is known for this nightmare.
so my question is
is there any thing I can do to get these bolts to let go with out braking other then soaking them ? as I really really don't want to have to take of the timing chain cover and deal with that whole thing if I don't have to.
my name is Blaine by the way and I am new to this board ,I hope the pics work
thanks for any ideas and helps you may want to share

 

Been there.

You'll get a lot of replies on what others do.

On my end, I snap them off, and mig weld a 3/8" nut to the remainder of the stud, the heat from the welding helps brake the bond, and using a 9/16" wrench, the broken stud spins right out.

You can also, without a welder, snap them off, and use a torch to loosen the bond, any (hot) heat will help.

That's why the parts stores sell the "water pump stud kit"

Also, apply some high temp thread sealer to the new bolts, coating the entire bolt, as you re-install, the part of the stud that goes threw the casting has an corrosion effect on the steel bolt.

 

thats a pretty common problem with the 460s and the 302/351 windsors. They corrode into the timing case covers. I usually just brake them off, pull the t-case cover and do a timing chain job at the same time.

 

I've only tried it once, but it did work. air chisel with flat bit either against the socket size you are using , or in my case I used a small tip that I ground flat and hit directly on the end of the bolt. here in Ontario we get way more than our share of road salt and I've even used this method on stubborn exhaust manifold bolts and its worked w/o heat.


the oxidized aluminum will usually break up around the bolt with this method and allow movement.


good luck whichever path you take

 

thanks for the ideas and help guys
I just found an old air chisel in the barn this morning and I am going to try that first .its funny,I thought this would be a quick little project .but man O man was I wrong .
but at least I have very nice weather and no chance of rain so it ant all bad
thanks again

 

It's a common problem due to lack of routine maintenance (i.e., owner's not properly maintaining the cooling system). Nothing lasts forever ... not even engine coolant.

Be careful about "just break[ing] them off, believe me. On the 5.0/5.8, in particular, it is possible to break the cast iron "ear" off the front of the block on the driver's side where coolant flows into the engine block.

Tapping the fasteners with a hammer is a good idea. Additionally, if the cooling system has not been properly maintained, finding someone turning the wrenches who knows when to say when, is recommended.

 

first off I want to say thanks for all the ideas and help
the air chisel did the trick but it was tricky
after disfiguring the head of the bolt a bit with the air chisel I filed it back in shape and then found an old cheep 1/2 socket and 3/8 driver I could do without and put the chisel in the back of the driver and let her rip for about 2 full Min.
then I saw that I could turn the bolt less then a 1/16 of an IN. back and forth.I elected to soak it over night with the cotton ***** soaked with transmission fluid and Diesel Fuel mixed 50/50
this morning I worked it back and forth and in no time at all I had a full turn on it and by then it started getting easy .
I should have the pump off in a few Min.but I stopped to rest a bit.
thanks again Guys

 

Well, there you go.......welcome to the famiglia....brotherhood.....

 

a few more pics

the culprit




big old pump right there


some cleaning to do


the hole I had to drill out from the broken bold I still have to do something for


how I kept up with what bolt goes where


the same


and this ant all of them it took me to do this job,lol


the crime scene


now I can
only one broken bolt.now just to clean every thing up and Tap out that hole I made ,I have some nickle ease and brass ease,do you guys think using them on the bolts would keep this from happening again ?,I would hate to have to do that on the road with minimal tools

 

After you re-install everthing to Specs ( Torque according to Factory Manual ) and use the correct RTV ...I do not see another Water Pump Failure in your Lifetime...460 waterpumps are solid.....I have only changed 2 and I am 54....and they were on different engines....

 

I am a little confused,a pawn inspection it looks like I may be missing something .
I am guessing this hole is where a mechanical fuel pump would go,but I have an electric fuel pump.
shouldn't there be a cover of some kind on this thing ????
and if so did not having the cover on it do damage to my engine ?
and wouldn't the no cover condition affect the vacuum pressure on the engine ?
I ask cause the motor ran pretty good

 

OK,
I had to dog off the project for a week or so for opening hunting season
but now I am back at it
I got my new pump
and cleaned up my bolts
got me some high temp (black) gasket sealer
and I think I am ready to start back with the pump
but I can't find the ford bolt torque specs for my 1988 E350 van with a 460/5.7 VIN # 1FDKE30G5JHB48278
anyone have a link or know them off hand ??

 

in your timing cover pic the fuel pump hole looks like it already has some kind of cover on it but if it isn't leaking any oil you don't need to worry about it the cam accentric that drives the fuel pump is right there and if the hole wasn't closed off the whole side of the engine and your crossmember would be cover in oil.


as for that broken bolt you got real lucky on that one, if you butcher the hole you can go oversize and use a slightly longer bolt w/a locknut on the backside. it was good to keep that horseshoe right where it was needed


sorry can't help with torque specs but somebody should chime in, might even find them in the forums on here.