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The gear ratio for the third member is stamped into the ring of the larger gear, called the ring gear.
If you cannot find it, which would be unusual, you can get close by turning the yoke (on the pinion) and counting the number of turns it takes to make the ring gear rotate once.
OK, I looked at the gears however I failed to find the marking. It could be covered by the grease and dirt in there, it will definitely need a once over as the bearings are sticking in a spot as I rotate it. It was a little over 2.5 turns for it to rotate once though. I could a pic of the stamp on the large gear.
I am so sorry for all the questions, I just want to make sure I do things right and I know everyone here has done alot of the stuff I hope to do. Thank you for the help.
Looks to me like a ford 9" rear. So that's good. If you hear or feel anything abnormal when driving take it to rear end shop and have it gone through and freshened up. Any leaks? If so they will replace all seals when rebuild is being done. Check axle seals behind backing plates.. you are checking for fluid or moist gunk build up.
In layman terms, the higher number gear you have (3.73, 3.55, 3.27, 2.73) the more revolutions to turn the tires. 3.73 on highway at 70mph will be at 3k rpm on tach and same speed with 2.73 tach will be at 2k rpms.. just as an example. Those numbers aren't accurate I was just illustrating the difference. I like the 3.27 to 3.73 for these trucks to cruise around town. Just my opinion.
How many bolts hold pan of trans on? If it has 11 bolts, I think, it's a C4. Pan will be square. C6 has 15 or more bolts... and that pan is square with a little jut out in one of the corners.
That is good to hear about the 9 inch rear, looking at pics online it seemed to match pretty well. I will see about getting the rear end and transmission looked at here as soon as I can get some money together. I will put the lower gearing in as well for the better highway driving. Hopefully I will have enough money to get the shifter fixed back to "normal" as well. Does anybody have recommendations for a floor shifter kit from maybe B&M or Hurst? Maybe another company that makes them?
I'm in Yelm, close to Olympia and have a bunch of odds and ends. I have 2 66 rear ends 3.5 ratio. I currently have a 66 in the shop getting ready for a repaint. I also have a 66 F250 Ranger and complete body parts for another 66.
Glad to help with anything I can.
Thank you very much; being so close I will have to hit you up and check out some of your stuff lol. I am working through the mechanical pieces right now I want to get a good base then work my way up.
The nice thing about the 65-65 pickups is the frame architecture from the back of the cab to the front is the same as the 73-79 so swapping in power steering and disc brakes is a bolt in affair. The later model rear ends are 4" wider than the 66 (frame too). I also have a 460 mounted on stock ford motor mounts;Power windows using a kit from A1 electric (very easy conversion);headliner from Stockinteriors.com; seat from a 89 ford F150 (reupholstered).
My good friend Roger Carter in Corbett, Oregon did the original conversion work on my current 66 over 6 years ago and has been helped me with advice over the past few years
I've a quick question: are you positive it's a 302? This looks a LOT like the 66 I was interested in, but the seller flaked. Same color and side boards, but that truck had a 390. It was in Lacey, or Oly.
I got the truck in Scott Lake in Tumwater, the guy I got it from said that it had a 460 in it previously and he swapped the engines between the truck and his ranchero resulting in the 302 being in the truck it is definitely not a bigger engine like the 390 by far I can take pics of under the hood and post them for further verification.
Thank you very much and welcome to you too. I am learning alot be reading all the threads here and getting alot of ideas. Now just to be a little patient and get drive train, exhaust and transmission squared away first. With the 9 inch rear under it it looks like the 3/4 ton leafs were moved over too, wondering if I should go back to the 1/2 ton for a little more forgiving ride.
My 66 was originally a 3/4 ton but the axles were changed out to 1/2 ton and leaves were removed for a better ride (which is quite nice, Heavier shocks and a roll bar help a lot too. It does sag quite a bit under a load but that's better than a kidney punch ever pothole.
Well I want kind of a combo of the weekend cruiser and utility of hauling stuff to the dump or general moving furniture lol. I am looking more restomod than anything else but definitely want creature comforts. The current 302 and c4 do work fine but the transmission is upside down in shifting(park is all the way at the bottom). I want to put it back to normal usage. The rear end right now has very high gearing in it i think 4.65:1. I want to put that back to a manageable ratio 3.55 or maybe a little lower for when on highway. I want it to look stockish on the outside but have decent power and the comforts inside.
I have a 9" 3:00 rear from a 1975 F-150. you'll just have to have to move the spring perches. PM me. I'm Steilacoom, not too far from you.
The 75 rear axle is 4" wider than a 66 so you would have to run skinny tires. I have a 66 axle with a 3.5 ratio you can have which will work fine for a 302. The 66 axles are usually 28 spline and most 75 axles are 31 spline so the pumpkins don't interchange. The code on the rear axle tag will tell you what the ratio and spline count is (if it's still there)
The 75 rear axle is 4" wider than a 66 so you would have to run skinny tires. I have a 66 axle with a 3.5 ratio you can have which will work fine for a 302. The 66 axles are usually 28 spline and most 75 axles are 31 spline so the pumpkins don't interchange. The code on the rear axle tag will tell you what the ratio and spline count is (if it's still there)
Not sure it's quite 4" but correct offset on the wheels will enable a wider axle, been there done that
11-03-2014, 05:33 PM
