I also took Ax's advice and used pure tung oil (9 coats) on my Santos Mahogany bed wood. Two years and counting and it still looks brand new!! Great stuff. Steve

 

has any one tried using clear coat will it peal it sure would shine

 

I'd start with 80 to cut it down and then finish sand with 100 to 150.

 

I've used automotive urethane clear on bed wood before. I have no idea how it held up over time, but it sure looked smokin' when it was new.

 

that is what I was thinking of using was auto clear but wasn't sure how well it would bond to the wood and life span of it this truck won't see a lot of use

 

Since the original poster asked if anyone had used Thompsens I will chime in. Over the years I have used it on various projects. About 2 years ago I bought some and it had become a water based product. I was shocked, and it was awful. The bottom of the can was thick white chunks. This past spring I was looking for something that would protect my new old wood bed, and I read a can of Thompsens and it was back to 'clean up with mineral spirits'. I decided to give it another chance. It was far thicker than the old standby, almost looked like the water based, but was better. The salvaged wood I used was very dry and it soaked in really well though. I was looking for the unrestored look, but wanted some protection for occasionally being caught out in the rain. I am happy with the results. I wanted no shine and no gloss. When I go to the dump, the cans don't slide around with this product.

 

I have written a couple dozen posts that included just about all that can be said about the best way to finish bed wood. Do an advanced search here on my user name, wood finishing, tung oil for about a day's worth of reading on the subject. For those new here, my information is not based on hearsay, advertising hype, or anecdotes, but on real science and intensive advanced study. I have an MS in Design, with minor in wood design, was once a college chemistry major, taught chemistry and biology in the US Army Chemical center and school, worked as a nuclear chemist in a nuclear fuel reprocessing plant, am an avid fine woodworker, taught fine cabinetmaking and wood turning. so I have an extensive and unique knowledge of the biology, physics, chemistry of wood and wood finishes.

AFA clear film finishes: unless cared for like a piece of fine furniture (kept in a constant climate controlled environment, protected from UV exposure, cleaned and waxed frequently, never exposed to moisture, clear film finishes will fail. (If you wouldn't put a piece of fine wood furniture in the bed of your truck and ride it around for a few months and expect it to live, then why would you expect the same type finish to live on your bed wood under the same conditions?) How quickly it fails depends on the wood species and the type of finish. Oak is one of the most commonly used bed wood, and the worst for finish deterioration due to the reaction with it's natural high acid content.

Using a product on a species, material, or purpose it was not intended for is a sure recipe for disaster. I haven't seen real wood used on the exterior of a vehicle in quite some time, so no automotive clear is formulated to be used on wood. Deck finishing products are formulated for use on pressure treated low grade softwood, to reduce mold and dry rot, to be absorbed and wear away, to not be slippery when wet and be reapplied frequently. They are not formulated to produce an esthetically attractive finish!

 

Aesthetically attractive finish would ruin this truck. I do agree with Ax, that if you want your bed to look really nice and stay that way as long as possible, bust out the tung oil. It's far better than any varnish or polyurethane. Also white oak is way better than red oak if you insist on using oak. If I were building the ultimate bed floor it would be locust with tung oil. I have 43 years building boats, furniture, doors and millwork. Never done anything else. The reason I chose Thompsens was because I wanted some protection, but the look of 'nothing' on the wood.......

 

GB, I understand completely the use of an outdoor deck product on your rough cut planks. As a woodworker, you understand the ramifications and maintenance requirements of your choice. Problems arrise when someone uses a deck water"proofing" product on hardwood and expects to end up with the bed looking like a bowling alley. Ain't gonna happen.

 

Right on AX, and a bowling alley bed ain't gonna happen on Mt. Pickett. I went so far as to burn the cad plating off the carriage bolts with a torch so they wouldn't be blinging at me.

 

Point taken....does the tung oil produce a shiny, glossy finish?

 

Not like a bowling alley shine, more of a very attractive soft glow/sheen/luster depending on wood species, wood prep and application/coats. Like a piece of high end Scandinavian furniture, a strand of fine pearls or a pearlescent paint job. A higher shine can be achieved with the application of a good paste wax/buffing like Simonize in the yellow can or Butchers Wax, once enough coats of tung oil have been applied. The finish is easy to maintain, should the wood get lightly scratched/scuffed, a spot application of additional tung oil applied with a green or white Scotch Brite pad to the damaged area and rubbed off is all that is needed. no need to sand or refinish more than damaged area unless the wood itself is damaged, then a sanding, smoothing and feathering of the damaged wood can be done before applying more tung oil to the sanded area.

 

Ok, cool. Thanks for the info. I have read that there is a store version which isn't 100% oil and then the real stuff. Any idea where to get it? I live near Denver, CO.

Thanks again...

 

See post #10 in this thread.

http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

 

See if you have a branch of Woodcraft, Rockler's, Klingspor, Woodworkers Supply or other stores that cater to fine wood craftsmen near you, if not you can get it online at any of the websites of the companies above or at Joe's link. Just make sure it says: 100% Tung oil really large on the label. It should run about 20-25.00 /qt, a quart goes a long ways if the wood has been well sanded to 400 grit.
I just looked out of curiosity: Woodcraft and Rockler's both have a store in Denver. I know Woodcraft stocks 100% Tung oil in their stores. DON'T let a well meaning (or commissioned?) clerk talk you into something else.