I have a 2001 7.3 crewcab cab and chassis dually..... I replaced the front bench seat with lariat chairs with the console, and I was searching for 12v+ for power and grabbed 12v+ switched from part#F2DC-3F770-AC (shift lock solenoid) and when I went to scotch lock it , my pliers made contact with metal and grounded out, took out the radio (had the key forward) I turned the truck off, then went to start it and no crank. was able to start it from the starter solenoid. replaced starter solenoid, still no key start. checked all fuses with both continuity and test light, fuses are all good. don't have 12v+ on the orange black wire (the little wire on the starter solenoid). don't get 12v+ on the tan red at the tranny when holding key to start, have 12v+ at the white wire on the clutch harness under the dash(if it was a manual) but theres no jumper from the white to blue and theres no power on the blue when trying to start.


also tried jumping out the shift lock solenoid harness to bypass it and it didn't work


also the truck no longer makes that ding noise when the key goes forward, andf the "key-in" ding when the key stays in the ignition doesn't function anymore... really need some help..

 

You need to begin by checking all the fuses again. Use a DMM across the tiny expose portion of the fuse. You should see system voltage on all with KOEO. (excluding some in the Central Under Hood Box).

Hopefully, the attached JPG will assist you.

Your truck has the system integrated into the Dash Cluster as well. You "may" have damaged that.

Splice 290 is where power is generated for the circuit (that's going to be the big bundle of wires)

You should see system voltage on the interlock module only when the brake pedal is depressed.

 

Can you explain more about the system integrated dash cluster .. and about splice 290 , what I'm looking for or doing with it ...

 

also my horn doesn't work anymore

 

also realized and got pulled over for ,, my break lights aren't working even if I play around with the connections

 

You stated you checked both the under hood and inside cab distribution box's, Actually pulled them and looked, and Checked with an OHM Meter or crossed the pins on the fuses while installed to ensure system voltage is present.

The three or four symptoms you are describing spans two or three different circuits.

A fuse should have blown when it went to ground. You may have done irreparable damage to the GEM and/or the Cluster (most probably both based on your symptoms).

 

Would replacing both be a good idea

 

I think what needs to happen is to find someone familiar with these trucks and, has capabilities to check the components operations.

Someone with a Scanner capable of bidirectional communication like AE or Snap-On.

But definitely not a "standard garage" type setting. For the most part, if one doesn't work on them specifically, they tend to waste both their time and your money.

Do you know anyone with AE?