In the middle of an oil cooler job on my personal truck. I found RTV Silicone on the oil cooler lid that mounts onto the block. Found some pieces in the reservoir, but the screen appears to have stopped them.


Mechanic says he used just a little to keep the gasket from rolling during install. I thought this was a no-no. What I saw was more than a little. I also found it on the front cover heater hose outlet. This is the second time this truck is getting an oil cooler in 7000 miles. Coolant is very clean.


Questions:


1. Do I use some RTV upon reassemble to hold the gasket in place?
2. Could the RTV be why I'm pushing a delta of 20 after 7500 miles.
3. Could some of the RTV have gotten past the hpop reservoir screen? Its a late 2004 and the hpop has about 30k miles on it.


Thanks again for the advice.

 

No need for RTV to hold the gasket in place.

 

Almost sounds like you had the same ID10T working on
your truck that I had on mine. That crap was everywhere.

No RTV unless the workbook/TSB says to use it.

The heater outlet should have an O-ring. If it's flat it
will leak. I picked up one at Ford. No leak.

As to the high deltas could be a poor job on the flush
of the wrong order. I would bet on a bad flush job.
Flush first cooler second.

Sean

 

Do you happen to know the part number for the o-ring?

 

If one would have to hold the gasket, a small application of grease would do the trick. Would have to say no to silicon.

 

Got on ready to go in.

Part No. 3C3Z-9J469-AA

 

awesome, thanks!

 

The only place you need silicone on the HPOP cover is at the back corners where the rear engine cover meets the block at the "T" seal/joint and just a dab right there.

 

If the oil temps are still high after a new cooler it might be time to think about replacing the oil cooler base as the bypass is likely getting weak.

Josh

 

Josh, that was my thought before replacing an oil cooler with 7k miles on it. I've had the new base for s month and installed it yesterday.

However, the old oil cooler bypass valve looked great and appeared to function great. I haven't looked at the coolant passages in the old oil cooler yet, but I may find some RTV clogging it. I plan on flushing and cleaning it out and keeping anything that come out of it to show the mechanic that installed the oil cooler.

 

I can count on one hand the amount of people I'd let work on my truck. I've had to redo or fix something every time boneheads work on vehical

 

I never use any, I think I remember seeing some on the too.
So, is the silicone just for holding the gasket?

 

If you are worried about rolling a gasket, use vasolin to hold it in place.

 

Would that be the same as grease? That's what I usually use.

One other problem. I stripped the back oil cooler cover self tapping bolt hole. I felt it give while I was trying to get it up to torque and stopped. Decided to check it the next day before installing the intake. Glad I did. I could almost remove it by hand. I put a little grease on the threads like I do anything I have to torque. I hope that didn't cause the strip. It's the larger of the two torx screws. I tried to get up to 205 in-lbs (17 ft-lbs).

Surely there's an oversized self tapping torx to use when this happens.

HELP. I could tap it out for a larger bolt, but my tap is not long enough to tap it without removing the oil filter base. And i really would rather not do that.

 

Have you checked your temps after a cold soak? I had high temps immediately after my oil cooler install. Let the truck sit over night turned the key on and read temps. My eot was over 20* than ect. Checked the pigtail and it was filthy cleaned it up and replaced the eot sensor. Solved my problem. And negative on the RTV. Are you using ford parts and gaskets? I remember mine fitting snugly and had no issues with them staying in place.