I am having some small electrical issues and think the corrosion in the fuse block may be causing it...anyone know where to get a new one?

 

Try the REAR COUNTER http://www.rearcounter.com/CODF-11654-C-parts58592.html
They show 1
Good luck!

 

thanks Wally, I called Greene earlier and they said it was a NAPA repop for $36-salesman didn't sound too sure it was correct, he said he would pull and inspect if/when I order....I am still looking.

 

here is problem I am having:

Turn on lights, HI and LO beams on along with HI beam indicator light in gauge, when I tap on dimmer switch the gauge panel/tach/gauge pod under dash lights turn on and off, not the HI beams...tried new dimmer switch, same deal-any ideas?? Just started, was intermittent at first. I could tap on dimmer switch a few times and HI beams would turn off, then turn back on randomly while driving sometimes....now they stay on no matter how many tome I tap it on and off.

 

Since you already changed the switch, it sounds like a short in the wiring between the headlight switch & the hi-beam switch. There should only be one hot wire from the light switch that goes to the hi-beam switch. From there, it selects either the hi or low.

As for the dash lights, that is almost normal on any car over 30 years old.... Maybe a coincidence that they started together? Usually a bit of WD-40 in the dimmer rheostat fixes this.

I put my headlights on relays years ago to take the load off of the switch, as well as brighten up the lights. That & halagen lamps gives me lighting as good as modern cars.

 

Joe; that sounds pretty wild, for me when electrical things start acting weird, its usually a grounding issue. Might check the ground strap for the gauge cluster?
Does The dash light dimming/cab interior light resister portion of the light switch function. It sounds like you may need to pull the switch out and test each circuit. The only thing the beam dimmer switch should have control of with the dash is the high beam indicator light.
Just throwing-out some thoughts

These are the frustrating but kinda fun in a odd way problems we get with old trucks

 

NOTE: Post 2 = CODF-11654-C is the head lamp switch only .. it does not include the junction (fuse) box!

Notice that the connectors with the asterisk * came with the junction (fuse) block assy, but the connectors with the triangle did not, were sold by themselves or came with the dash wiring harness.

There are three different types of these connectors, parts catalog only says AR (As Required), doesn't say which is which.

C2AZ-11A647-A .. Junction Block Assy. / Obsolete

Applications: 1960/62 F100/600 / 1961/67 Econoline / 1963 F100/750 // 1960/63 Galaxie / 1960/64 Falcon/Comet / 1962/64 Fairlane.

NOS PARTS LTD in Waxahachie TX has 7 = 972-927-2201.

WESLEY OBSOLETE PARTS in Liberty KY has 7 = 606-787-5293.

 

Looking at the diagram Bill posted I see a #13A060 that appears to be a clip that holds the fuse block to the switch I assume, I've never had one and didn't know of such. I guess I've been lucky the thing has never separated over all the years..

 

C1AF-13A060-A .. Headlamp-Junction Block Retainer / Obsolete

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 1 = 800-543-4959.

OBSOLETE RELIABLE PARTS in Nashville GA has 4 = 229-686-5101.

 

Thank you Bill..

 

It may not actually be a short but a poor connection. Headlights consume quite a bit of power and if other lamps are being affected when you switch them on or off, it may well be the large wire that brings the power to the fuse has issues like a break in the insulation somewhere along it's length which has allowed the copper to corode and decrease the current flow. Not that these trucks ever have any bad wires or anything.

 

Thanks for a the replies fellas, it is actually a short in the dimmer switch plug...I would imagine from being stepped on for over 50 years.

 

Cool; glad you found the problem!

 

How can you tell if you need A or B in the head lamp switch?