Radio MESS
#1
Radio MESS
I knew my aftermarket radio wasn't right. It would turn on without the switch. So I pulled it today to check it. No tools needed, wasn't really mounted. Slid right out. I found a nest of naked twisted wires, only one harness was attached, and here comes the kicker. A red and a green wire were twisted into the mess and ran to the FRONT of my dash fuse panel. Red(power I assume) was crammed in with my cig. lighter fuse and the green crammed in front with the Air Bag system fuse. Don't you love PO's.
After I ripped out the crap, I'm wondering if I've got what I need to put in another radio. One gray connector, one black, and what I assume is an antenna cable.
Also any info on a mounting kit with alot of options would also be appreciated. I don't know if you can see it, but the PO hacked up the dash opening too.
Thanks
After I ripped out the crap, I'm wondering if I've got what I need to put in another radio. One gray connector, one black, and what I assume is an antenna cable.
Also any info on a mounting kit with alot of options would also be appreciated. I don't know if you can see it, but the PO hacked up the dash opening too.
Thanks
#2
Judging by the pic, it looks like the stock harness is unmolested. To connect a new aftermarket radio you would need a radio harness for your pickup/year and possibly the mounting hardware. The new wire harness would connect to your radios new harness and plug directly in to the factory wiring....assuming the wiring still works properly.
#3
Don't you just love the stuff some people do? I know there have been other links posted, but I've always relied upon Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, LED TV for mount kits and wiring harness adapters. They've always been free when I purchase the stereo from them, but they do sell them separately.
#4
Any new "head unit" you buy should come with a metal frame that the actual stereo slides into. You will need to find the right adapter harness for the pigtail. In my experience antenna connections are universal. You might want to go to a best buy or call clutchfield or something to get the right harness and size of the unit, they will have that information, but noting says you have to buy it from them or have them install it. I installed mine with a brief consultation from a few folks and a bit of research. Good luck!
#6
If you plan on putting a sound system in you can run wires yourself and not even need a harness.
All you need is a 12 volt constant power wire, A Ground wire ,and a 12 volt switched ignition source to install a head unit.
You can use the factory speaker wires but I would not recommend them. If you want better quality sound I would run new speaker wire.
All you need is a test Light if you want to use the original wiring to install an aftermarket radio...If all is in good shape...
Hold the test light to each wire with the key off until the test light lights up.. That is your 12 volt positive.
Then hold the test light to each wire while turning your key in the ignition on and off...You Don't need to crank the car. The wire that lights the test light up is your 12 volt Switched ignition source.
For the Dimmer Wire I usually just wire it straight to the 12 volt positive unless you know which one is the right wire.
The ground wire is usually black... Although, I would run a heavier duty wire to be safe to a bolt holding the dash board in place.
All you need is a 12 volt constant power wire, A Ground wire ,and a 12 volt switched ignition source to install a head unit.
You can use the factory speaker wires but I would not recommend them. If you want better quality sound I would run new speaker wire.
All you need is a test Light if you want to use the original wiring to install an aftermarket radio...If all is in good shape...
Hold the test light to each wire with the key off until the test light lights up.. That is your 12 volt positive.
Then hold the test light to each wire while turning your key in the ignition on and off...You Don't need to crank the car. The wire that lights the test light up is your 12 volt Switched ignition source.
For the Dimmer Wire I usually just wire it straight to the 12 volt positive unless you know which one is the right wire.
The ground wire is usually black... Although, I would run a heavier duty wire to be safe to a bolt holding the dash board in place.
#7
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#8
Don't you just love the stuff some people do? I know there have been other links posted, but I've always relied upon Crutchfield: Car Stereo, Speakers, Home Theater, Pro Audio, LED TV for mount kits and wiring harness adapters. They've always been free when I purchase the stereo from them, but they do sell them separately.
BTW: The factory speakers in these trucks are TERRIBLE. If you're going to be installing a new stereo head unit, DEFINITELY get some nice aftermarket speakers. The difference is enormous!
Last edited by phoskins; 10-24-2014 at 01:06 PM. Reason: spelling error
#9
I agree with Toplait that you can do it without an adapter. But why? Quite frankly electricity and wiring seem to be a mystery to a lot of people and the result is more often than not butchered wiring and problems down the road. The adapter pigtails are cheap and easy to use. Go with them. You'll thank yourself and a future owner won't be cursing that damned PO for butchering the harness.
#11
Defiantly run new speaker wires from the new head unit to new speakers. That insures you will not have issues trying to use the factory speaker wires and burn up your new unit!
I have repaired many aftermarket car radios due to owners trying to use the factory wires for the speakers. The power and grounds from the factory harness are Ok to use.
I have repaired many aftermarket car radios due to owners trying to use the factory wires for the speakers. The power and grounds from the factory harness are Ok to use.
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