Has anyone installed an anti-dieseling solenoid onto a Carter YFA carburetor?

I think that would help my run-on issue at shutdown. I have an older carb that has the bracket, and I can get the solenoid.

The bracket mounts using two existing screws in the carburetor. What I'm wondering is if by removing and re-installing those screws if it will mess with the gasket seal and cause any leaks.

The solenoid just takes 12v Key-On power. For those that don't know, the idea is that when the power is off, the solenoid closes the throttle plate on the carburetor, keeping fuel from getting sucked in at shutdown and preventing run-on. As soon as the key is on, the solenoid energizes and pulls the plunger back, allowing the throttle plate to crack open a bit (under spring pressure) as it should.

It seems like a pretty straightforward deal, as long as by installing the bracket I don't mess up the carburetor.

Thoughts anyone?

 

I believe the screws used in mounting the bracket are external, only. [going from memory]


Check with Bill Vose [A.K.A. 85lebaront2]... he knows a thing or two about carburetors!

 

There are two bolts that hold the bracket in place. They both go through part of a gasket and into bottom half of the carburetor. In pulling the old bracket off, I don't think it will cause any issues, but thought I'd check if anyone else had done this.

The solenoid that was on the old carburetor is bad, so the search is on for that as well.

 

Does this help?

1985 FORD F-150 Idle Stop Solenoid

 

Tried to "rep" you, Ken, but was told that I am in "rep jail".

 

LOL

That's the one I ordered about 2 minutes after starting my search.

Should be here in a few days

 

If you still have a feedback Carb you could just energize the feedback solenoid which will drive it lean. Not sure if this would be enough or not to stop the run on.

Phase one testing...
You would use a relay that powered the feedback solenoid via hot power with KEY OFF, when the relay relay energized with KEY ON power, it would remove power to the feedback solenoid.

Phase two would be adding a Power-Off Time Delay Relay in the hot power feed circuit. This would eliminate the parasitic power drain of the feedback solenoid.

But then maybe I am the only one who still hasn't swap out the feedback Carb yet ...

Jim

 

No problem, thanks David

 

Got rid of the feedback carburetor, computer, air pump and EGR a while ago. DUI distributor and basic Carter YFA. It runs great, just get the occasional run-on, usually in the warmer weather

 

You have got the idle speed as low as you can? Another 100rpm lower may do it for you.

 

Idle speed is as low as it can go and still idle OK. Everything has been done to this point, except for the solenoid.

It is an intermittent problem, but annoying. They put these solenoids on to correct just this issue, so I'll see how it does. Simple thing to try as I already have the bracket, the wiring is dead easy and the solenoid was only $14

I should know by Thursday..

 

I posted an update in the 'What have you done to your truck today' thread, but just to 'close off' this one.

My solenoid arrived today and I got it installed.

I'm sure many know how these things work, but just to share for those that don't..

The idle stop solenoid actually replaces, or overrides the idle stop screw. When using this solenoid, you need to back out the idle stop screw so it no longer comes into play.

The solenoid is energized by KEY ON power and at that point, will extend to open up the throttle plate just a bit; just like the idle set screw does (or did). You need to adjust (turn in or out) the idle stop solenoid to set your idle speed.

Once the key is turned off, the solenoid de-energizes and retracts, allowing the throttle plate to snap all the way shut.

When using the idle screw, the plate stays open just a bit when the engine is shut down. Because of this, some fuel can get sucked in the engine after the ignition is shut off. If there are hot spots, it can cause dieseling or engine run-on.

The idea behind the idle stop solenoid (anti-dieseling solenoid) is that as soon as the key is turned off, the throttle plate closes all the way and will NOT allow fuel to get sucked in. No fuel, no run-on.

Pretty simple and, in my view, pretty slick solution. And guess what? It worked slicker than slick on my truck. The run-on issue is intermittent, but with the solenoid in place I can already tell a difference; engine shut down is positive. It might be too early to say but I think it fixed the problem.

Not bad for $14. (I had the bracket or it would have been a few more $$)

 

Well, a small issue has come up. I found that the solenoid doesn't quite reach the lever it is supposed to push on. I thought I had it working, but found that the idle speed screw was still in play.

On my old carburetor, there is a screw that 'extends' the throttle arm a bit so things can be adjusted from the carburetor arm side as well as by turning in the solenoid. On the current carburetor, it is just a flat bit of steel.

I can replace the carburetor with one that has the adjustment, or, and more likely, come up with a solution to make the little tab the solenoid contacts just a bit thicker. I may be able to drill and tap that tab for a bolt to make the contact point adjustable.

Sounds like a small project for my day off