2004 LTD 220K miles.


Starting to rust and trying to decide if its time to part with it. Runs perfect. But started having the slow crank when sits for a while. Yesterday would not start at work. Battery new. Volts test good when running. Alternator replaced before but could not tell you if it was 100K miles ago or 50K miles ago. Anyway, started the look for drain process by putting multimeter in seires in neg post. Drain is .135 A. Started the fuse pulling but every time I open door I have to wait a while for lights to go off and acc to trun off before it settles to .135A. Is there a way to trick the car into thinking doors are closed?

 

I think I found it. Crap. It is fuse #35, Instrument cluster. Any ideas?

 

I wonder if that's the security system. My 04 has a drain as well, it's really frustrating. I've killed both batteries after letting it sit for 2 months to the point where hte dome lights didn't come on.

 

So watched a video about jumping how to check for drain without removing battery. I did this and waited 30 min and then checked for draw and was down to 0.016.

If the security is in the instrument cluster, does it really take 30im to shut down?

I hate electrical issues.

 

Mine was killing the battery until I hosed the door latches with 1/2 a can of WD40 so the door ajar light would go off. Now when I close the door, the dome lights go off in 25 seconds (I just went out and timed it).

 

The battery saver takes anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes to time out. Any reading made before that interval has completed is useless and will usually cause you to waste time and money trying to fix something that isn't broken.

16n mA after timeout is fine.

Yes. Use a screwdriver the flip the latch on the opened door so the latch is in the door closed position. Just don't forget about it and try to slam the door shut without re-opening the latch first.

 

Mine was killing the battery because the interior lights were staying on for 30 - 45 minutes until the "battery saver" disconnected them... once in the morning when I got to work, once when I went to lunch, once when I got back from lunch, and once when I got home at night (plus two or more times if I went anywhere after work).

I had the dome lights on for probably 3 - 4 hours a day and only had the engine running for maybe 15 minutes (I live close to work) and the battery would just run down further & further every day until it wouldn't start anymore.

Anyway, I would say that whatever stays "on" (that shouldn't) before the battery saver kicks off is still worth finding.

(I put all LED bulbs in the dome/map lights & glove box so now there's less draw if they do stay on because a door isn't shut or the switch gets left on.)

 

OK so lets recap and then you guys can point me in the right direction. Drove car on Sunday after sitting a week. Car cranked a little slow but started. Monday morning started fine. Tuesday morning started fine after sitting 24 hours. Tuesday night dead (after 12 hours) as a door nail. And no I did not leave any interior lights on.


Drain after interior lights off is .310. Removing instrument cluster fuse makes this .016A.


Rigging car to keep thinking it is attached to a battery and waiting 30 min the drain measures .016A.


Diagnosis is the security system is in the instrument cluster fuse and it takes 30 min to shut down.


So my diagnosis is no drain. So what next?


Drive around with battery booster just in case is my next step. But wife can't drive the car. She won't learn how to use the booster, but all the kids know how to.

 

Actually the real question is - I need new tires and new brake lines. Do I do keep putting money into this thing or put it out to pasture?


Oh, and the door latches are good. I have had to replace them all at various times in the life of the truck. Interior lights go off after a short time when doors are shut.

 

You may have a bad relay. I would swap the large ones under the steering column around and see if things change. I took mine apart and cleaned the contacts at around 40K miles. The interior lights would stay on all the time even while driving. That sucks and is very unsafe! The contacts become burnt or pitted over time. I replaced all of the large relays under the steering column at 60K miles and have not had any electrical issues since.

Ed.

 

Do all of your dome/map lights work? Others have reported shorted wires above the headliner that either blow the (instrument cluster) fuse or perhaps just put a huge draw on the wire until the battery save kicks out?

I know you said your dome lights are going off; but any of the lights that have switches (glove box, map, or rear cargo) would have power until the battery saver shuts it off.

 

Park it in the field behind the barn, the cows won't bother it. Leave the title in the glove box and keys under the floor mat but don't lock the doors. I'll bring my own jump box.

 

OK. Crap.


So two weeks ago after all that, I checked everything multiple times. After hooking up battery pack and waiting for time out drain was .019. Car sat for days at a time and always started first crank with full battery.


Today at work after sitting all night battery was drained and needed battery booster to start car. It cranked a few times before going to the clicking.


So it is an intermittent drain. Anyone know how to track one of these down?


Clues - and tell me if any matter


1 - was having no problems until I removed and repainted front bumper. There is a dent in the bumper and one of the fog light just kind of hangs there but all electrical connections look intact


2 - Drove in heavy rain to work. Prior to that all starts were when car was sitting in the dry.


3 - when I started it this AM the gas gauge showed empty. The rest of the gauges worked fine. I just filled it up so I knew I should have 3/4 tank. Thought maybe someone came by and stole my gas so I went to gas station and filled up. Only took 11 gallons and when restarted car showed full so gauge was just off. Could the fuel level sensor be the problem?


Any help would be appreciated.

 

Every time mine went dead (from the door switches not shutting off the dome lights) it would "0" out the trip meter, switch to the odometer reading, and the fuel gauge would read EMPTY for a few minutes and then slowly return to the correct reading... I think that's just how the gauge cluster reacts when it loses power.

Mine went dead again one day this week but I could tell it was cranking slower for a couple days. My problem is I have to start the truck about 5 times a day (go to work, go to post office, go to bank, go to lunch, go home from work) but I only drive about 2 miles total... so it doesn't get time to charge most days.

I had the same problem with the Hummer and actually went through about 4 batteries in 2 years, I guess because every day it was trying to "boost charge" (or whatever GM called it) the low battery.

 

I checked all of the light switches and door sensors in the car and they all seem to work.


The fuel gauge and the trip meter did reset so I guess that is normal.