Hey guys. I'm considering trading off my 2007 SCLB F250 with the 6.0 for a new regular cab 250 and the 6.2. The 07 is just killing me with repairs. About every 6 months I end up in the shop and it usually costs me 1 or 2k to repair it. I'm also still making payments on the truck; owe about 11k on it still. It has 112,000 miles on it. The truck is nice and it looks good, when it runs well it's a good truck. When it doesn't I want to push it off a cliff. I just had 4 injectors replaced to the tune of 2k, FICM in January, last year was rear brakes, front wheel bearings, power steering pump and ball joint. I've also had to replace o-rings on the fuel rail. The truck is needing tires now and I've got a bad vibration at about 55 mph as well as an oil leak under the turbo. I really don't need a diesel for anything and I'm not driving as extensively as I was when I bought this truck. At that time I was doing almost 30k a year, I've since changed jobs and am under 20k a year now with a company truck for work purposes. I really don't want to put any more into maintenance on this thing and I'd like new with a warranty. What kind of money can I expect to spend on a 14 regular cab gas truck, probably in XLT trim? Sticker seems a little crazy on them.

ETA: I'm also considering a Dodge 2500 with the 6.4. I've always been a Ford guy but the trucks are comparable in interior and capability; my brother's Dodge has been good to him for the most part.

 

I bought my '14 in July for about $37k. It's an XLT only difference is mine is a crew cab, so you would be able to get a single cab for 2-3k less I would assume.

You might have trouble finding a new '14. I was somewhat limited with my selection because the '15's were already out and that was 3 months ago.

 

I got rid of my diesel last yr coz i new the truck was going to start needing repairs . Just from the way it was running in the winter . Bought a 6.2 and love it id say unless i hit the lotto ill never go back. No regrets here it tows my 7500lb gooseneck no problem at all. In fact id say it tows just as good as the 7.3 did.. U should be in the 8 to 10 k off the sticker area i was.

 

Thanks for the replies. This truck has been a huge disappointment to own. Not only does it frequently break down, but it costs so much to repair when it does and few shops are willing to work on the 6.0. My heavy truck mechanic will only do chassis work on the truck. I'm in kind of a situation though and I can't afford another hit like that injector job. Unfortunately I bought the truck used 3 years ago so I still owe on it too. I'm just frustrated with it and feel that it's not dependable enough for me anymore. I recently bought a fixer upper house and I can't work on both, lol.

 

The 6.2 with 4.30 gears is a great combo if you decide to trade.

 

How are they with the 3.73s? How much mpg loss to go 4.30? I'm planning to opt for the locker if I can work out a new truck. Are they limited slip in the open position or full open?

 

LS rear ends work with clutch packs.


You can google it and probably get a good ...way better explanation then I can give.


It works primarly as an open diff till it senses wheel slippage. Then it attempts to engage the other side to transfer some power to the non slipping wheel.


Works fairly well unless turning...that is where the open diff concept helps for the turns.


I don't know what the mpgs would be with either.

 

Your problem is that you're paying someone else to do the work for you. If you can find the time to learn this stuff yourself you can typically save ~70% compared to having a shop do the work. If you're not mechanically inclined or don't have the time I would suggest getting the newer truck.

I believe in the Briggs and Stratton catch phrase from a few years ago: Engines Matter. I like the 6.2L engine just fine, but it's a bit weak on the low end compared to the V10. I think the Ram 6.4L would be an improvement, but remember that its rated 410 HP is made with premium fuel. I wouldn't buy a new truck without taking a good look at the new Rams. They've come a LONG way in recent years.

The MSRP difference is $3,795. Of course dealers are less able to negotiate on cheaper models, so the out-the-door price difference may be less.


I'd pick 3.73s unless you are towing something heavy for the highway fuel economy. The 6-speed transmission has a really short first gear which easily makes up for lack of rear end gearing to get the load going in my experience. But you can't shift to 7th gear on the highway because it doesn't exist, so your cruising RPMs are dictated by your rear gears. 3.73s would put the engine at lower RPMs under greater load where it is more efficient. My V10-powered Excursion seemed to get ~2 MPG lower on the highway with its 4.30s than most with 3.73s could get. That was 12.0 MPG at 65 MPH.

 

2015 F250 CC LB with 3.73s here.

I drove a 96 F250 with 4.10s for a few years. That truck, when you put it to the boards took right off. My 2015, doesn't nut up off the line. Once the motor hits 4k it spools up nice. I'm not sure if I got 4.30s if that would change that "take off" speed. I won't even get into the 6.7; that was a HUGE mistake to test drive that thing.

I have an off road buggy that I haul around now and then. Total weight I'd say is 5000#. It hauls it like its not even there. My other truck would struggle on hills. I'd have to cook it a pretty hot supper on hills that didn't allow me a running start. My 2015 walks right up.

 

I bet lunch that the tuning is responsible for that.

 

Tuning or lack thereof? Only thing I have done to my truck since I drove it brand new off the lot was install mudflaps.

 

I'd get lunch the relatively short stroke and cam timing has more to do with it than the tuning.

 

The factory tuning that is....

 

It is probably torque management.

 

Ah. Gotcha. I thought you were telling me its probably because I put a tuner in it. Was all like whaaa?