Help just did simple filter change & now it wount start. 1990 f350 pu. 7.3 diesel Fule comes out of filter ( tested) no leaks anywhere. It started when I first tryed then sounded like it ran out of fule. Cranked it with the new batterys, never fired once!Now their dead. I read all the Q&As on the fourm & found that its hard to get it to start after changing the filter but no one tell how to do it.
WHAT DO YOU DO ? POUR DIESEL IN THE AIR INTAKE TO FIRE IT?

Thanks if anyone can help
Conrad

 

Well since you have drained your batteries charge them. Then loosen all the injector lines at the injectors. Crank on it until you have fuel to the injectors. This is because it's "air locked" once you have fuel coming out all the injector lines, tighten them up, it should start and run. Don't be surprised if she stumbles quite a bit.

Now to avoid this situation in the future you can do two things. One pre-fill the filter before install or bypass your stock mechanical lift pump (fuel pump) that is located on the side of the block just below the alt/vacuum pump location with an electric fuel pump. Then all you have to do is spin on a new filter, turn the electric pump on, and press in the scharder valve on the filter head to bleed the air out. Then hit the key. No problems. Just remember that electric fuel pumps like to push fuel not pull fuel so it needs to be mounted back by the switching valve (if you have dual tanks). Mine is mounted just under the the cab of The Enterprise.

Also keep in mind that when you are cranking on engine and it does not start to give the starter a break everynow and then to cool (takes about 5mins for it to cool) so that you don't burn it up. These things are expensive and the top bolt can be a bear to get at.

 

Thanks Argve : I like the electric pump idea

Tried to field test the fule pressure & found around 5/7 lbs comeing into & out of filter/seprator. Undid all 4 lines on pass side at the enjectors & cranked a lot NOTHING CAME OUT. Cranked some more & discovered a very small amount comes out perhaps with the timeing order. ABOUT 1/2 A DROP OR A LITTLE LESS PER LINE.
(1)
Argve how much fule should come OUT OF THE ENJECTOR LINES WITH ALL 4 LINES OPEN ON THE PASS. SIDE FOR THIS FIELD TEST.
At cranking speed.

I am going to try it today - found 3 of the glow plugs bad - tested with jumper cables (+) to tip 5 got real HOT fast & 3 just warmed a little.
Hate to Junk this truck at 65K mi. but I am 3 hrs from home & a truck that wont start won't help me.
I am going to instal the glow plugs ( got 3 new one)- tighten all the lines -have someone cranke the motor as I go around and ckack the lines one at a time at the enjectors to try to get the air out & to start.
If it starts I shall run it up to about 2K revs. for about 5 min. to get air out.
(2)
Argve ( or anybody elce) can I prime this diesel to start it somehow?

Time will tell the destiney of this rig. Thanks all

 

Sounds like your getting close to getting the injection pump primed.

I'm going to ask this just to rule it out, I'm sure you have it correct, but my experience in maint has taught me not to over look the little things.

Do you have power to the shut off solenoid on the injection pump? There should be 12volts on the lug located on the top of the injection pump closest to the gear housing cover. It needs power to engage the fuel within the injection pump. If you have power to it, remove the wire going to this lug and listen as you connect and disconnect this lug. Do you hear a click, if so then call it good. This click can be hard to hear, but it can be heard. If not post back and I can tell you how to pull it to replace it.

Ok your on the right track with cracking the lines to bleed out the air, not a lot of fuel is dispensed at idle, but it will be at high pressures (around 1400 psi) The factory service manual says that you have to bleed the injector lines in firing order, I have never done it this way, I have always just loosened all of them cranked for a little bit until I seen fuel, then tightened them all up, and away we went. But your's might be stubborn and want it done the proper way. I will write what my book says.

To purge high pressure fuel lines of air by loosening connector one-half to one turn and cranking engine until bubble free fuel flows from the connection. Tighten them up in the firing order.

Hopes this helps. actually I think it will get you going.

 

Yes Yes Argve
I jumped the starter relay to crank under the hood & did so braking the lines lose then shut during some the crankings & went around the lines at the enjectors 4 or 5 times.
I could see allmost no fule during this event. Just some moisture - just a little & some air but not much, allmost none.
Will I shall try it anyway I am thinking but I know its not going to fire.
Key on inside & it fires but missing. Try once more and it LIGHTS UP ! Kick it up to about 2.2K revs & let it run (4/5 min.) wonder if its leaking something down under. Comes down to idle but missing some & around I go.
Crack the lines with the motor running & see fule / air / & foam. Go around 2 times . # 1 line is leaking at the enjector so I go & get a kit for all the enjectors & new by-pass lines ? for$27.
Shall instal after lunch. The Glow plugs ( I got 3 only to replace the dead)are "DUAL COIL" type from Itayl called "LDM" . Tested them befor instal & they get twice as hot as the good ones I had left for the reinstal - was told they are the best - could see they were drawing more power during the test & "GET THIS $10 EACH.
Good info Argev Thanks - that info about the "POWER ON" to the shut down solenied on the pump is a good tip.
But how is it set up ? During normal opp. ? Gets power when you turn off the key - or - is the power on when the key is on.
Anyway I get the point or do I ?
I shall have to get the air out all over as I renew the seals / bypass lines etc.
Have a good dinner Thanks again Conrad

 

Anytime your key is in the on position or start position the Fuel Shut Off Solenoid has power. Basically if you remove power from this solenoid it stops the fuel flow inside the injection pump.

Yep sounds like you had a nasty air lock.

Glad to hear you got her back up and running. Too bad about the leaking injector line that followed. I must say that it does not surprise me considering if you look at the return line caps in a nasty way they start leaking.

 

Argve Thanks :
Its reasuring to get this help & what this site is all about.
Replaced all the seals / cape & lines along the enjector line - had to replace one of the "NEW caps as it just would not stop leaking so I put one of the old caps back on & NO MORE LEAKS.
As soon as the last leak was stoped the motor ran like new. I expect 65K mi. is just well broke in. Sounds like a INTERNATIONAL now. First thing I was thinking was how it reminded me of the old TD6 track drive I had in Idaho in my youth =( greased tracks every day) remember thE "SOUND OF THE DIESEL"
Drove the rig over to the car wash to clean the motor & re-check for any kind of leaks in what I think I will call" THE GRAY WHALE "
no leaks runs as new.
Plan on a compleat service now & then down the road ( loaded with home repair parts) to the north coast of California to " Little River CA & let er smell the salt air thats still clean up north.

Thanks Conrad

 

yea first time i changed my fuel filter (right after i bought my truck) my buddy told me it would take a bunch of pumps of the pedal to reprime but i was not ready for that!!! after that i just went with the prefill method

 

SMELLS GOOD TO ME,BUT i LEAVE THE JEANS ON THE BACK PORCH.
Just dont use "STARTING FULID EVER" but next time you see some Deisel starting fulid at some fly by night joint reed the small print on the back about how it will HARM DEISEL MOTORS

HARM - HOW ABOUT DISARM