Ok

Ive done this

I looked at a set of fe repos... and as stated they look pretty restrictive

I ordered the stainless headers because they have a painless return policy

and based upon opinion here I looked at my ft manifolds again... and set them up for use as backup just in case... no going back now

First I blasted them and then ground out the crossover so that it was as clean as I could make it



Then I fitted a piece of 3/8" mild steel plate.. I inset it into the manifold so I could have plenty of surface area for weldment
Welding used cast iron can be tricky because of the porosity and carbon content buildup.. but I ground it as clean as I could and pre-heated it to 400 degrees and used nickel rod (fortunately my tig machine still has arc capability)



I kept building up the weld until it was higher than the surrounding surface and then I used a poor mans mill.. my flap disc grinder.... checking it with a straight edge regularly...

Viola... port closed off.. permanently



If I use them Im going to research the best exhaust gasket avaiable... and use it.. perhaps on of the copper seal ones...

Now.. waiting for the stainless shorties

I also think the comments about the shorty sandersons is correct.. I think they might work... again an issue.. since this is a new motor ALL the coated header builders want the motor broken in before the coated headers are installed.. otherwise it voids warranty.. new motors must get hot wearing in during the first 20 minute cam break-in

Ill report back on the stainless headers.... heres hoping...

 

That is exactly how I did my manifolds. I plan on using them in my 56 C600 with a warmed over 390 clark 5spd/od and 2spd rear.

 

Personally IMO the best gasket is the Ford stock metal one, that is a combo "gasket" (not really, it is a shim type) and built in heat shield to keep from baking the plug wires.


Any other type will just blow out from the heat eventually. Of course the exhaust ports in the head and exhaust manifold surfaces must be flat.


Worse case on the factory style, well in years they might rust away, but by then the rest of your exhaust system will also need work.


David

 

Well the end result was this

The stainless shorties showed up.. I was able to get them in but had zero clearance on the drivers side with the collector flange within 1/8" of the steering box.. so they wouldnt work if the motor torqued.. I had considered cutting the collector flange.. changing the exit angle and shortening it... but after much thought I decided to just go back to the stockmodified ft manifold..

I decided to double up on the welding and weled the filler plate on the inside as well... dont want cracks and leaking... and I was already well into the point of no return... stock gaskets.. stock exit points... now the mini hi torque starter I had installed clears everything by miles

I think Sanderson center dump headers might have worked but Im tired playing the header game.. and coated ones would have warranties viloated with the new engine startup...

I tried...

Now.. onto building a custom bed and bed stacks
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did you get them planed after the welding, would remove any pitting on the "gasket face" also. then no gasket required, only a thin film of highheat copper silicone.


manifolds are looking good

 

poor mans plane.. I belt sanded them and decided to use the premium fel pro gasket