Good deal guys,,, I wouldn't even mess with a compression test until after its buttoned up and ran for a warm up drive.

The reason the truck ran for 20-30 seconds after turning the key off was because it was being fueled by the cac. I was betting the reason it died wasn't a mechanical issue, and it would've kept running if the key wasn't turned off. I would run the truck with the complete cold side cac tube off and do a couple hard throttles and it will clear the cac quickly. But leave the hot side connected. The exhaust will spin the compressor and push a bunch of air. Much more than a shop vac. You're just gonna have to clean a bit. Lol.


Also,, sorry for your loss as well.

 

Let me clarify. You need to do three tests.

1. Install the oil filler cap and run your 3 minute test again. Make sure to rev it to 2500 a few times. Also get it to 2000 and hold it there for 20 or so seconds. Putting the oil filler cap on, forces all the blowby through the ccv. See if the oil in the turbo out cac is more.

1. Disconnect ccv. You will likely have to pull to inlet pipe to the turbo from the air filter. Install the oil filter cap and run the same test again and compare the oil. If the turbo out cac is dry, then we know the oil is coming from the ccv.

3. Blow out the intercooler by connect all the hot side cac tubes and catching the intercooler discharge with rags. As SDS said, rev it to 2500 to 3000 a few times to move as much fluid out of the intercooler as possible.

Once all the above is complete and you don't get too much oil, or an over rev, run the truck about 20 miles. Get on it a few times just to clean things out. Then do the starter wire trick with two and with one battery. If it sounds good, go make some money. If not, do a compression check.

Sadly, Torque Pro won't do a cylinder contribution check (relative compression / balance test). TP is what I use and I have never heard of anyone getting the misfire to even work. There is a free software that works with the Bluetooth reader that may do a balance check. I would try and do a compression check through the glow plugs on each cylinder ...... but I've never done that.

 

QUOTE=BryanStein Let me clarify. You need to do three tests.

1. Install the oil filler cap and run your 3 minute test again. Make sure to rev it to 2500 a few times. Also get it to 2000 and hold it there for 20 or so seconds. Putting the oil filler cap on, forces all the blowby through the ccv. See if the oil in the turbo out cac is more.

DID THAT, got oil in the CAC tube.

2. Disconnect ccv. You will likely have to pull to inlet pipe to the turbo from the air filter. Install the oil filter cap and run the same test again and compare the oil. If the turbo out cac is dry, then we know the oil is coming from the ccv.

CLEANED EVERY THING AGAIN, disconnected CCV at the valve cover. Ran the 3-min test, and a small amount of oil accumulated in the CAC again, like that earlier picture, about as much as you'd get off a dipstick check.

This would mean a leaky turbo seal, right? And, whereas a small amount of oil might be acceptable from the CCV, a turbo seal should not be leaking any oil, right? Or, could this still be residual from somewhere?

3. Blow out the intercooler by connect all the hot side cac tubes and catching the intercooler discharge with rags. As SDS said, rev it to 2500 to 3000 a few times to move as much fluid out of the intercooler as possible.

I ONLY REVVED up to maybe 2500 because I have no reasonable expectation that my original work, the problem that started all of this, the persistent misfires and injectors going out, has been solved. I can still feel it missing now, during these tests, although having no air filter and CCV could be causing that.

But, mostly because this thing still scares the **** oughta me. Read the recent articles in the news about the "rise of the robots" and "rage of the machines," etc. That damn truck had a mind of its own, and it was pissed off. It could have crushed me like a fly if it believed I had more fuel.


Once all the above is complete and you don't get too much oil, or an over rev, run the truck about 20 miles. Get on it a few times just to clean things out. Then do the starter wire trick with two and with one battery. If it sounds good, go make some money. If not, do a compression check.

GOING TO research turbo seal.

Sadly, Torque Pro won't do a cylinder contribution check (relative compression / balance test). TP is what I use and I have never heard of anyone getting the misfire to even work. There is a free software that works with the Bluetooth reader that may do a balance check. I would try and do a compression check through the glow plugs on each cylinder ...... but I've never done that.

Damn, those are the two most useful tests along with fuel pressure. Are scanmakers in cahoots with the IDS sellers?

 

More oil with or without the CCV connected? Hopefully its a little more with the ccv connected. If so, you're turbo seal may be ok. If its about the same, you may have a turbo seal problem. However, I still don't think the oil in the picture you posted with the oil filler cap removed is enough to cause an over rev. I KNOW I wouldn't worry about that little amount of oil right now.


Before we go crazy about the turbo seal, the previous over revs could be the result of fuel or oil in the intercooler. It sounds like you have blown out the intercooler with the turbo. Did it give you any liquid? If you got liquid that looks like either diesel or oil, that is clearly where the over rev came from. If you get nothing, you either exhausted it already, or its coming from the turbo seal or ccv.


I personally will not try and attempt to repair a turbo seal, I would have someone rebuild it. It will come with new seals and bearings. If it cost close to a new one, I'd buy a new one.


If you have blown the intercooler out, I would run it for 20 miles or so. At least when your in the truck, you can keep it in gear and hit the brakes to help kill the engine (after you switch the key off). My guess is you will not get an over rev. You could try it with the ccv disconnected just to build some assurance.

 

[QUOTE=BryanStein;14764283]More oil with or without the CCV connected? Hopefully its a little more with the ccv connected.

Yes, I would say there was a little more with the CCV attached, but that might have been because I didn't run it quite as long?? I placed a rag above the CCV outlet on the valve covers and couldn't feel any significant wetness on it after the test, although there was a steady chug of smoke coming out of the vent.

Before we go crazy about the turbo seal, the previous over revs could be the result of fuel or oil in the intercooler. It sounds like you have blown out the intercooler with the turbo. Did it give you any liquid?

Same story, couldn't feel any significant wetness on the rag I placed in front of the cold side IC outlet after running it with the hot side tube reattached, but I did see wetness around the outlet hole.

If you get nothing, you either exhausted it already, or its coming from the turbo seal or ccv.

Hard questions for me because I don't know how much volume I should be looking for.




If you have blown the intercooler out, I would run it for 20 miles or so. At least when your in the truck, you can keep it in gear and hit the brakes to help kill the engine (after you switch the key off). My guess is you will not get an over rev. You could try it with the ccv disconnected just to build some assurance.

K.

 

[QUOTE=IHateCommieCars;14764313]

With the oil you showed in the photo, I expected the rag at the ccv to show some oil staining. Because it didn't, that's a good sign. It could just be the turbo seal or fluid in the intercooler.


Its time to do the following.


1) Hook the CACs back up and rev it up to 3000 or so. Do this with the oil filler cap removed first to lessen the CCV pressure. If that goes smooth, do it with the oil filler cap on.


2) If that goes smooth, take it for a drive.


The best we can tell without removing the intercooler, you're clean from the top side.




I'll post these questions to the FTE experts.


a. What are the potential sources for fuel for an over rev / runaway condition from inside the engine (eliminate the ccv and turbo seal).


b. What are the potential sources for fuel for an over rev / runaway condition from inside the engine if you can pass a bubble test?


Thanks for filling the empty spaces in my knowledge.

 

Just got around to reading this thread today. And no, I didn't buy a Dodge, but if somebody wanted to trade one for my Ford right now, it would be a done deal.
Above is the pic of what caused my runaway, I had about 7 litres of fuel in my oil pan.
Now I'm fighting a low hpo problem, and starting to wonder if my pump wasn't damaged in the runaway.

When I heard your cranking video, i was sure you had a dead hole, mine sounded just like that, just a bit worse. And this is what it looked like...

 

Is that what caused it or the result? Do you think it sucked oil up from below? Without compression, how can it suck oil into the cylinder or compress it enough to ignite?

 

QUOTE=BryanStein

If that goes smooth, take it for a drive.

OK. How about this: from just revving here in the driveway, I can still feel a shudder and slight miss. Which was my problem to begin with. My hope is that it's just air in the lines, residual fuel/oil that remained in the HPOP when I changed oil, etc., that will go away with some extended driving. Then, if it starts hitting on all cylinders, I could rev it to 3000. But if it's shuddering at 2500rpm, I wouldn't want to push it harder.


The best we can tell without removing the intercooler, you're clean from the top side.

I get that feeling as well, and that there's no fuel left in the intercooler. I'm less fearful of another runaway and more concerned, at this point in the diagnosis, about the shudder/missing, and the oil in the turbo.

I'm also not that I'm not sure what "going smoothly" means to you.

Thanks for helping!

 

Have you always had that slight miss, or did it run smooth before you had done injectors replaced?

 

QUOTE=John Irwin

mine sounded just like that, just a bit worse.

An easier way to say that is "worse than yours." LOL

I'm not ruling anything out at this point, and I'm obviously not knowledgeable about these trucks, but I can't imagine my truck running as good as it does if it had a problem like this.

 

I've replaced all the passenger side injectors twice and #7 three times in the last 2 months. The first new set worked great for about 3500 miles. The next set lasted 150 miles before the miss came back.

A fuel filter change and the blue spring upgrade made it run better for about 50 miles. Then it started missing again.

A tech scanned it and says 7 and 2 are not working. I removed 2 and found some little pieces of hard plastic in the bore hole. So replaced it. Also switched #1 and #7 to see if the miss would travel with the injector to #1 or stay at #7.

That's where I'm at now. When I started up after doing that work, the truck ran rough, I drove it a half mile and it did the first runaway. So, I don't know if I've fixed the miss or not, or if the runaway burned up another injector. Need to run it a while.

 

Bryan, it's what caused it. The piston damage was from over fueling (maybe an Edge programmer?) and the terrible blowby must have somehow introduced the fuel in the pan into the engine. CCV probably.

And Commie, mine ran great right up till the day it expired. Ran way better than it does now...

 

As I recall you said Ford injectors. But who did the work?
That plastic you found in the top of the injector could be a
problem for someone. All it would have to do is slow down
the shuttle valve and your over fueling. That is not good.


Now onto the part.
John, On the LPOP have you checked the regulator spring
and piston on the front cover?


Sean

 

Yeah, I'm going to do that next. As soon as I get it pulled home. And I'll also quit hijacking Commies thread. He started it, he mentioned me at the start...