Have a 2000 F-150, 5.4L. Once recently in a parking lot, it would crank but not fire or start. Wife called me to come get her. By the time I got there, she said it started "after she loosened the gas cap & re-closed it." (I've learned it's best not to ask why).

But, it started fine for next several weeks. Yesterday it didn't. I read a bunch of threads here on possibilities. Many troubleshoot items I checked out or had done.

Chilton manual says you can get limited error codes from the light on dash flashing - MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method.
For now, I'm trying to find the 2nd, separate, one-wire lead "near or with the (main) Diagnostic Connector." They call the single wire / connector the "Self-Test Input connector" (STI). You're supposed to use a jumper between that STI & the upper, right connector of the main diagnostic connector. Then you (may) get flashes corresponding to codes via the key on, engine off method.

I see no such single wire lead or connector anywhere near there. Not up under the dash either - stuck my head under there & used mirror.
There's a separate connector (not in use) clipped on the L side of the main diagnostic connector, but it has 5 pins inside. I took pics, but forum says I "may not post attachments." Been a member for yrs.
That extra 5 pin connector faces toward firewall.

There's an "empty hole" - 1/4 in. (facing forward) in the bracket that holds the main diagnostic connector. Just above the main connector. Not sure if something was ever there

If no one knows how / if the Malfunction Indicator Lamp Method works or where the jumper goes, I'll be forced to buy a code reader w/o researching which are decent or crap (around $200 or less). I maybe? could wait to order one online (if knew which one). Also have AutoZone, O'Reilly, Advance, NAPA, PepBoys & others locally.

* The truck shows a check engine soon light, so should be a code already. * Yes, I tried her loosen / tighten gas cap trick.
* Also put a slow charger on for a while & even used the fast start setting on charger. No go, but engine turns really fast.
* Crawled under the gas tank & listened for fuel pump to activate when key is turned to Run.
* Fuel pump made a small noise - more like a relay or "clicking" - not a whine or whir.
* Checked most fuses - under dash & hi voltage box - that have anything to do w/ fuel pump, PCM & several others - mentioned in similar threads here. Can't really check relays & don't want to just start replacing parts.

I don't have a code reader & reluctant to buy one from local store w/o some reasonable research. (I don't mind buying one, but...).
If I could drive it to the auto store, I wouldn't be asking this.

Chilton's doesn't say if this malfunction indicator lamp method will work if a vehicle won't start. But, a code is already thrown.

Thanks.

 

That only applies to older (pre-96) vehicles. Time to buy a new Chiltons.

You need an OBDII scan tool, it connects under the dash near the steering column. Go to your parts store, most will read the code(s) for free. WRITE THE EXACT CODE(S) DOWN. Do NO buy anything based on the "troubleshooting advice" of the parts drone at the store unless he/she is also an ASE-certified mechanic. Come back here, post the fault code(s), and you will get help and advice so as to understand what's going on and how best to diagnose and repair the fault.

 

Thanks, but this Chilton's is for '97 - 2000 PU, Expedition, Navigator.
That method may apply to engines ('97 -2000) OTHER than 5.4L?
The 5.4 L & certain others in my year apparently use the EEC-V system (not EEC-IV).


As I said, if I could start it, I'd go to the auto store to read codes. For now, that's not happening. Which is why I said, I might be forced to buy a scanner locally - before having time to do much research on consumer level scanners.

I don't know a lot about scanner brands / models, except a lot of people complain about many of them and that auto parts stores don't necessarily carry the best tools - especially electronics.

 

Peg, respectfully, you came here for help, please listen.
You cannot read codes from the CEL lamp no matter what any book tells you, from 1997 upward.
All engines are OBDII control by law.
They are 4 digit codes in digital form and there are over 1000 codes.
If there were multiple codes stored how do you think you could handle them with a flashing lamp and be accurate?
Have the codes read, copy them down and list them here to get a start on your issues.
A simple Reader will even do for a start if you go get one for OBDII.
I suspect there is more than one issue present and you need to see what the system is telling you first, before doing anything else, no excuses, no if's, no ands np buts.
Good luck.

 

Thanks Bluegrass, but respectfully, if you read my 2nd reply, I said the method mentioned in my Chiltons may not apply to the F150 5.4 L - after all.

The discussion - left - reading the codes by flashing lights (on this vehicle) after projectSHO89's comment & my follow up.

I'm now reading posts on scanners - function & reliability of brands & models in consumer price range (like $200 or below).

 

Peg, respectfully I am not going to debate what was said in any reply.
You cannot read codes from a MIL for OBDII from 97 on in any Ford, Lincoln or Mercury no matter what motor it is.
One supporting reason is there are other modules that have their own codes and need the advanced digital readout to look at them. Theses are NOT part of the engine control system but separate.
Your being difficult to help.
Any Scanner under about $120 usually is not going the be very useful over the long term, over just a reader.
If you get one that can display live data, you still have to learn what your looking at then understand what is involved for any code displayed.
This is why we are here to provide that technical help and not debate what you read in a book, otherwise.
If you still don't see the bottom line then you will be glad i'm out, of trying to help you.
Good luck.

 

Did you ever check the fuel pressure when it won't start? Bang on the gas tank with a 2x4 a few times and try to start it. If it does, the fuel pump is going bad.

PEG, no one is being rude to you. They may be getting all wrapped up in reading codes, instead of talking about the one piece of diagnostics you already did - listen for the fuel pump, and that you didn't hear it just turn on nicely, you heard something else.

I bet the pump is going bad. Bang on the gas tank to wake it up. The "commutator" and brushes on the fuel pump motor are probably burned, and a little violence will give it enough contact to fire it up and get it home.

Check the fuel pump relay as well. Tap it with a screwdriver or your key ring. If it comes down to needing a new fuel pump, MAKE SURE you replace the fuel pump relay also.

If that doesn't work, and there's something other reason the fuel pump isn't running, that's where the codes come in.