1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

towing with f100-light duy 240-i6

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Old 10-17-2014, 11:16 AM
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towing with f100-light duy 240-i6

Just considering an option on retrieving a donor vehicle some 300 miles away.
Would I be pushing it to try to tow a trailer carrying an 69 f100 shortbed with my 69 f100?
Thinking that might be pushing it, but just wondering.
technically, my truck is rated for 5000 lbs., I think. It has light duty 3 spd and light duty rear end (ratio = 3.70).
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:28 AM
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In central Texas you should be OK. I wouldn't suggest a lot of towing with that setup, but take your time and keep an eye out.


John
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:35 AM
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'Should be fine... don't expect miracles on hills. Slow n easy and observe all safety precautions.

50-55 mph and allow for generous vehicle spacing between you and the traffic ahead.
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 11:40 AM
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use trailer with brakes if you have the option to reduce stopping distance
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:24 PM
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It has been a while since I towed anything - used to haul 26 foot travel trailer with a f-250/c2500 - so not sure I would even attempt anything as large as I am thinking with this truck. Do the brake lights actuate the trailer brakes on those with them or do I need a trailer brake control module in the truck? I really don't want to mess up my wiring for this one-shot thing.
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 03:57 PM
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I,of course,am also worried about the stopping issue. But I'm also worried about your clutch. Is your's closer to new or closer to retirement age?
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
It has been a while since I towed anything - used to haul 26 foot travel trailer with a f-250/c2500 - so not sure I would even attempt anything as large as I am thinking with this truck. Do the brake lights actuate the trailer brakes on those with them or do I need a trailer brake control module in the truck? I really don't want to mess up my wiring for this one-shot thing.
You need a brake controller for the trailer brakes.
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 04:07 PM
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Put you big boy pants on and give it a whirl. If you have pulled a trailer before you should have some sense about how to do it. Click my user name and check out my garage album. There is a photo of an 88 4wd on my trailer behind my 66 F100 no trailer brakes.


John
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:09 PM
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The way I figure it, you'll be Yanking about 5500lbs. The 240 is gonna be slow going, so brakes will be fine on flat ground.

Do it
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
I,of course,am also worried about the stopping issue. But I'm also worried about your clutch. Is your's closer to new or closer to retirement age?
Clutch likely has the same miles as my truck - 32K.
Heck, the old Ford already has air shocks on the rear.
Have a couple of things I am going to take care of prior to that trip. Like replacing my carb. It won't be here until about Halloween - so much for near instant gratification.
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:32 PM
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I would give a thorough go over of the brake system. These old trucks have a nasty habit of brake component failure, if they've been sitting up for a good while then, start getting use again.

If the brake fluid is brown or dark, and not a clearish-amber color, flush the brake system with new fluid.

Make sure there are no wheel cylinder leaks and that the flexible brake lines don't have any cracks in them. If the truck has a manual MC, make sure it's not seeping fluid down the inside of the firewall.

If it has power brakes, a leaky MC will leak between the MC and the booster. The face and underside of the booster will be wet with brake fluid. --also in this instance, there's a really good chance a MC that's leaking will get brake fluid into the booster housing. If this happens, the brake fluid will attack the booster diaphragm and destroy it.

Adjust the drums brake shoes up until you cannot turn the wheels by hand then, back off the adjusters 10 clicks.
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:12 PM
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Good advice as always Ultra.
Apparently the PO did have some brake work done prior to selling it. New bleeder valves, brake lines are in good shape, fluid was clearish, just needed topping off, but I will recheck the brake hoses. The truck brakes well - just a little bit of pull on a hard brake.
Pretty sure there is no fluid leaking down the firewall. Pretty darn clean under the hood.
 
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
Good advice as always Ultra.
Apparently the PO did have some brake work done prior to selling it. New bleeder valves, brake lines are in good shape, fluid was clearish, just needed topping off, but I will recheck the brake hoses. The truck brakes well - just a little bit of pull on a hard brake.
Pretty sure there is no fluid leaking down the firewall. Pretty darn clean under the hood.
If a manual MC is leaking, you won't see the fluid on the engine side of the firewall. It will leak down the INSIDE of the firewall, underneath the firewall padding/carpet. The manual MC is sneaky like that.

....The brake fluid needing to be "topped off" makes me wonder if they just didn't fill the MC to within a quarter inch from the top or, if it was filled and some of the fluid has been lost somewhere (?).

A "little bit of pull" on the brakes indicates; possibly the shoes are not adjusted equally, the wheel bearings are worn or are not set at the proper torque or, there is oil or grease on the brake shoe linings or, a wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid onto the brake shoe linings.
 
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:39 AM
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Hard braking pulls hmm I'd check your rear brakes any of the above happening.

I'd also choose a day with the least traffic...
orich
 
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by orich
Hard braking pulls hmm I'd check your rear brakes any of the above happening.

I'd also choose a day with the least traffic...
orich
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