Hi guys, first post, been guest viewing for a while now and wanted some input.

My '01 F350 used to pull ok over CO passes with my 8k lb trailer but now I'm a rolling roadblock. I used to get 10-15 lbs of boost on the passes and be able to hold 60MPH mostly with only a chip, ATS housing, 4" downpipe back exhaust and now I'm getting out of the throttle because of high EGTs and even in 2nd it's hard to maintain my speed at 40MPH and keep EGTs below 1300.

I'm betting I have a boost leak somewhere but can't find one. Turbo lag seems worse than in the past but I can get over 22PSI, used to see over 25, peak 27.

I'm looking to make this truck work better than it used to but by no means turn it into a racer, just tow at altitude and I know that's not easy.

I'm starting with a WW2 compressor wheel ( will rebuild turbo ), Diesel site waste gate controller, Hydra tuner, replace all turbo hoses, replace up pipes ( I can see pass side exhaust stain on block ), adrenalin HPOP ( and replace hoses ), banks 6.0 IC swap. Parts are in the shop.

Not sure if I want to replace injectors since adding more fuel where there's less air doesn't sound like the way to go but I dunno they may be tired.

The truck runs great other than not having the power it used to. Starts easy, runs smooth, doesn't seem to be anything obviously wrong.

Thoughts?? What else should I do while I'm this far in?

Are there any good programmers in CO or programs for towing at altitude?

Thanks for your input!

 

^^^^^^ There's your main problem.

Fix what's wrong first. Don't use the other mods to fix an issue. Use mods to modify your truck. If you were happy with it before, then stick with fixing the actual problem and save your money.

But if you want to add other go fast goodies, then by all means have fun.

Not sure why you want to rebuild the turbo. If it's not broke, don't mess with it. Same for the HPOP unless you are actually unable to maintain pressure.

 

I agree that's at least part of the problem, and yes I'm also hoping to upgrade a little with the rest. I've never been satisfied with towing over mountain passes, maybe I never will be but wanted an upgrade to make it at least easier.

My goal is to fix any issues I currently have and upgrade at the same time while I'm already there.

 

Let us know how you like the 6.0L IC. I was thinking of that also just don't want any surge added. Seems like a good upgrade.

 

With my previous truck, a 7.3, and SS sticks, I changed over to a 6.0 IC ($50 so why not?). It gave me a warm and fuzzy feeling to do it but I could really never see a difference in EGTs.

 

By "replace up pipes" do you mean bellowed uppies? That would be the best and most likely cure the issue, as Curtis said.

The 6.0 IC will only show it's worth on a long steep grade.

 

Yup, I'm replacing the factory up pipes with bellowed up pipes and while I'm there I'm doing the EBV delete too.

As far as the IC is concerned the long pulls over passes are exactly where I'm hoping it will help. I don't expect there to be much of a difference other than towing passes but that's been my main complaint. We'll see if it really helps or not.

 

For me, trading the stock 4R100 trans. for the HD4R100 made a big difference pulling the Co. passes. 2000 F250;towing 13,000# fth whl.

 

6.0 IC definitely lowered my EGTs in the hills, easy to recommend that mod.

Someday I really should do the bellowed uppies too, that's another clear cut improvement.

Before deleting the EBPV consider using it as an exhaust brake. I use a DP Tuner F5 with a decel tune, does a nice job of controlling a long descent. Keeps the brakes cooler since you need them less. Some people disapprove of the concept for fear of floating the valves due to backpressure, but I've never had a problem.

 

Is it possible that the amount of load and speed are factors that can cause the valves to float when exhaust braking? I guess I am hoping that if you drive conservatively the exhaust brake can be used safely. Been thinking about this mod.
Larry

 

Ok, full disclosure there. I couldn't believe what a mess I found.....

The bad...
The up pipes were leaking badly at the Y that connects to the turbo, and the one on the passenger side had a 1/4 hold in it about 1/2 up. The hole was caused by the down pipe rubbing on the up pipe. ATS for some reason had 3, 1/2" nuts welded to the outside of the down pipe and one of those nuts rubbed on the up pipe until it wore a nice sized hole.

On the compressor side under the intake spider the passenger side top hose clamp was tightened around the middle of the hose not on the top. Basically the clamp was not there and any boost would whistle out around that hose. The spider slid out of the hose easily without loosing the clamp.

On with the good...
I upgraded the stock turbo with the WW38 compressor wheel and the turbo was in good shape so I didn't end up rebuilding it. Installed new waste gate actuator.

I did the EBV delete.

I replaced all the turbo hoses other than on the IC. The were all very soft.

After all this I pressurized the system to 30PSI and found one last leak where the hose comes off the front of the intake to the MAP sensor ( I think ) and put hose clamps on that.

After all this it's obvious it would run better but it's running better than it ever has. What a difference! I couldn't see, or hear, that leak in the up pipes behind the engine and wouldn't have imagined there'd be a hole in one of them. The intake clamp I should have found but until I pressurized the system I didn't see it.

Lessons learned!

I'm waiting to install the Banks IC until I can get a test pulling my trailer. I want to find out if it makes a difference or not and without running now with all my problems addressed there's no way to know. I'll update once I get more data on the IC swap.

One other note is that I found a lot of oil in the turbo hoses and turbo when I replaced the compressor wheel. I'm hoping I don't have a cracked ring or something but now the last couple times over the passes I was pushing the old girl pretty hard to get over. I know the crankcase vents into the intake pre-turbo but how much oil is expected in the system?

 

A good amount of oil is in the pipes. If it bothers you, you can do the CCV mod and use some heater hose and vent it outside, so like it, others don't. 7.3 buses vent theirs out to atmosphere. Glad you got her fixed. You will notice a big differnce with all those holes plugged.

 

I'm using better hoses than factory now that aren't supposed to get soft with oil so I don't know that I care as long as I don't fill up the IC....

If I find oil in the IC when I swap to the Banks I may just do the CCV delete and weld a nipple on the exhaust to vent to. I don't think it's that big a deal but was surprised by it and had to clean the heck out of it to get the hoses to stay on under pressure.

 

Sounds like surgery was a success doctor!

My understanding is the oil in the IC is pretty well blown thru at WOT. Rich (Tugly) took a look with a borescope and found almost none in his IC. The oil will seep around here and there and the CCV mod will address that, but I think it's mostly a cosmetic issue. Not sure about venting the CCV to the exhaust idea. If the nipple is too close to the turbo I can imagine the exhaust pressure might be greater than crankcase pressure and go the other way, venting exhaust into the crankcase. But that's speculation on my part. Hopefully one of the experienced CCV mods guys will chime in.

The traditional shade tree fixes to boots blowing off is lightly scuffing the tube with sandpaper and a zots of hairspray. Antiseptic cleanliness works too. Be sure to get your rig fully loaded and to WOT a couple times before hitting the road. If it goes boom and you survive the subsequent heart attack, try the above fixes.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I pressure tested to 30PSI and everything held, it didn't a couple of times at first but I used brake clean on the tubes and since the new hoses came with new clamps I doubled them up. Nothing like a little overkill!

What you said about the IC being clean makes sense. I saw the same amount of oil in the tubes on both sides of the IC on top of the engine.

I was thinking much farther back in the exhaust for the CCV vent but honestly unless there's does turn out to be oil in the IC I'll probably just keep lubing everything the way it is now.

Also to those who have done the up pipes in a driveway or by crawling around the floor of a garage I salute you... I have a lift in my shop and it was still a pain, not hard mind you, but a pain. I'm pretty sure I'd still be cursing if I was crawling around under the truck to do that job.