Yea, a lot of shops don't want to work on our "old-stuff"

If they can't plug in there diagnose machine, there at a lost, But there are a bunch of 'old-school' mechanics around too.

I switch out a ECM that cost $98, and took 10 minutes to change out, so I guest what there asking is not too much out of line...........maybe???

 

ok today I checked the TPS. disconnected I and key on I have 5 volts. connected with a warm engine I connected the black lead to bat ground, red to red wire going to TPS ( of course after the plug. I get 5 volts! I read I am suppose to get .5 to 1 volt with key on and throttle body closed. open slow and no difference in reading. tapped it a bit while opening and closing and still 5 volts. not sure if I did things correct but already replaced IAC and no diff. on way to parts store for TPS. after that to mechanic!!!!!

 

I removed to throttlebody to instsll new TPS. there was huge carbon deposits inside. maybe 1/16 inch thick and moist and gummy. inside of manifold same very dirty. afraid if I clean that it will go in engine. cleaned TB and installed new TPS. cleaned where new TPS goes, some sort of plastic thing in there. wonder if it is supposed to turn? mine is fixed. mounted new TPS. ready to install in a hr or so. fingers crossed. never seen such a dirty intake. any way to clean. maybe additive for injectors?

 

help- replaced the TPS hooray, idle normal. still have check eng lt on. and ABS light. did self test got codes 998 122- 998-122. from what I saw on one site I replaces the manifold air press. sensor, was really carboned up. still ck eng light on. disc batt for overnight - no change. for abs replaced speed sensor at rear end - still light on. wondering if lights just need to be cleared?? do I have to drive it a bit? cant pass emissions

 

How did you pull the codes??

Short out the EEC or key on/off?

Code 998 is ECM in "limp mode" = open loop.

Here's link to 998, and the link to Code 122 for you.
What others have found.

What you really need is a OBD I code reader, where you can clear the codes correctly, and then you need to drive at least 50-100 miles to get the ECM out of open loop, and correct it's self, or show any new codes.

Once you get the ECM "re-programmed" you should be in the clear, unless something else show up to set the CEL light on. Most times, the EGR will not set off the CEL, and you can only pick that up with a OBD reader.

The problem with doing a code read with the key on/off, or shorting the #6 pin on the EEC is kind of like inflating a 16" LT tire with a bicycle pump.
Yea, it will get the job done.........in a long time, but not the right tool....

On the bright side, with you replacing the TPS, you solved the high idle problem

The ABS light, the yellow light on the instrument panel?? between the oil and temp gauge.

My '94 was on for years, my '92 been on for 2 years, don't effect inspection, here. And anything before '96 don't get the sniff test here.

You need a ABS reader to clear any codes that are present in the control unit. Other wise, just replace the control unit with a new re-man one.
I had a "master" mechanic tell me at an inspection that my brake master cylinder was bad, the brakes were "bleeding down" but I know he was wrong, and I found the process on FTE on how to remove the spring in the RABS unit, and my brakes were fine after that.

So, what did you do about the high carbon build-up in the upper intake manifold?? You didn't post back on that.
Not surprised that the MAS was plugged up with all the carbon you wrote about.

Cleaning?? I've run some Seafoam thru the intake, from the brake booster vacuum line before, seams to help some, can't get it all with out removing the upper intake.

 

thanks. jumped single wire to top rt. worked.i can get a code reader from O.reilly auto parts to read 1 and 2 for $200. maybe will. carbon - was a bit concerned when took off throttle body and saw caked carbon in intake also. didn't touch inside, thought it would foul injectors ( more ). put in 1 bottle lucas injection cleaner yesterday. good thing is it passed emissions. when doing 50-60 mph, speedo fluctuated 5 mph. did replace speed sensor before that. odometer doesn't work, not a big deal. thx for all your great help

 

also wish you knew Volvos! have a 2000 s80 T, I know- why! it seems that year is a lone duck. replacinf cooling fan and module today. got one online for $40 used. that car lives with cel and service engine. was doing weird thing when driving. when doing 40, 50 or 60, it just goes to idle and dash says pull over and re-start! wait 5 min and starts and runs ok. thought it was fan and getting hot. we will see. cant find any one on line that will help with this beast, and of course no code readers out there.

 

uh o, hope I didn't break any rules by mentioning the Volvo on a ford site.. anyway thanks for all your help with my van. the est to fix was over 1K. I replaced 3 sensors for total under $100. finally learned a lot about using my multi meter. now I can try to figure out why my Range Rover classic is not getting fuel. I know, I have some doozies.
I don't know if this is the correct way to reply, don't want to keep strting new threads. seems to be working. fantastic site

 

Glad to hear your all set

Seams like you saved some coin over all this too.

No, don't know anything about Volvo, except, not to buy one.

Do know Jeep Renix well, have 4 waiting in the wings for me......someday....

I don't think mentioning Volvo on this site is as bad as mention that Bow-Tie vehicle here, I think it's like a 30 day suspension to FTE.

If your serious about getting an OBD reader, check out ebay.
The one I got 6-7 years ago is I, II and cam for under $100.
Used it on many vehicles, and had friends stop by to use it.
Nice to have your own, to check what the problem is, and clear codes

 

Good gravy I too have one of those damned things---'99 S80 T6---WTF indeed!

I bought this cheap enough---$800 plus $400 for parts/labor new brakes---but first time this thing even hiccups with something semi-major its off to the recycler----no kidding.

I recently needed/wanted to replace the interior rear view mirror---the dreaded auto dimming disease hit me. Had this been done by the dealer it would have cost upward of $1,500---for a fricking rear view mirror.

Spare key? That's about $230, dealer only item of course but that does include their uber-special "programming" in order for the car to recognize the key.

Gawd I miss my '84 Pontiac---I could work on that one!

 

hi JWA, I must have been having a brain fart when bought it. Came to my senses and have fords now. I bought the V from CarMax and right before I was given keys the windshield cracked from extreme heat when they washed it. my rear view was also damaged and I remember it was ridiculous to repair, on their dime for sure. sending mine to boneyard. tired of pouring $$$ into.Looking at a two or three yearold F350 king ranch. Will keep my 03 f250 and old 94 van. thanks for the reply

 

A quick tip, the IAC is what causes the engine to idle, when they fail, the engine quits, it can't run, unless you are holding the throttle open, because the butterfly is closed on an injected engine, a solenoid controlled valve is added to open the airway, to control the idle, thats the IAC.