Our new 5er is, in comparison, much longer then the old one. It sits somewhat lower as it's a 'light' version (if 11.5K can be considered light). I seem to be doing some agricultural work, occasionally dragging the rear bumper. I crawled under it to see if the 'over-under' axle mod would work, but the axle is already under the spring pack. I've considered putting 2" blocks under the spring, but this trailer has a Lippert frame and something that has caused other folks problems with tear out. It does have a Mor-ryde CRE-3000 suspension - and I believe that there is an 'X-Factor' kit that will fit to alleviate some of the side loading and potential for frame damage. Now, question is and this is mostly from my looking at this - I think the 2" blocks, plus the 'X-factor' kit will work but is it worth my time and effort as well as the several hundred bucks (I'll also add a wet bolt kit too)? I'm aware that there might be some minor stability issue but the 2" of added height on a 12'6" trailer is no problem. Oh yeah, the belly mounted spare has dragged a couple times - so that will either go into the truck bed or the bracket will be mounted closer to the axles. Before you ask, the trailer does sit level to the truck bed though I might drop the B&W arms one set of holes just for a trial - which might just make this discussion -----

 

Do you drag a LOT? Many something like this would work for you. Heavy duty weld-on ones are also an option. KZOwnersForum.com ? KZ-RV Owners Forum and Reviews

 

No, it's not that quite that bad, just occasionally. I've seen those skids and wheels but would prefer not to go that way unless other options are considered first. I tend to go where many others don't, but not any types of places I haven't been with other 5ers with no dragging problem. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

Another option would lower your front a bit....both the hitch and the RV 5th wheel should have adjustments to lower it....Dropping it down to the next hole shouldn't effect the level THAT much. Any other method seems quite expensive if it's not THAT often a problem.

 

As a matter of fact, that's something I'm going to do this afternoon - between rain showers. I wont know the outcome for a couple weeks though as the trailer is at the dealer for a few minor warranty items.

 

I mounted my spare tire on the rear bumper. I had the same issue with wanting to drag it.


I then took the winch and put it in the underbelly and sealed the hole shut.

 

I had some custom lift blocks fabricated. I designed them and a friend fabricated them. The dimensions on them are slipping my mind right now, but they were built from square tubing. Each block had a center support welded into the middle and then end caps welded on. They were drilled so that the U-bolts would pass through the blocks and a centering nub was added to the block to center on the spring pack. I've been running them for nearly 5 years now. I have probably 15-20k miles on them and no issues.

The general design of mine are similar to these, but my u-bolts are fully enclosed in the block.

 

A little more elaborate as well as higher then I had envisioned, but rectangular tubing is what I'm thinking about. I would 'guess' that putting the U-bolts through the block is a good way to use standard tubing as I believe the springs are 1.75 or possibly 2" wide.

Good idea. Thanks

 

That picture is not mine. It just gives you an idea of what I'm getting at with my "clear as mud" description. I just like that square tubing allowed us to combine the u-bolts/blocks together as a unit. It has worked well so far. I'll try to get a picture of it next time I am out at the camper.

 

I'm not a big fan of spacer blocks as they do put a lot of extra torque into the springs when braking and I have not yet seen a remedy for that...
What size wheels/tires do you have and have you considered upgrading to something taller in that department?

 

This, and my personal opinion is that the torque is magnified even more with a spring over axle setup.
I guess if I was gong to do something like this, I would look a altering the height of the spring hangers themselves, rather than the spacer blocks. That way, the axle/ spring relationship wouldn't be changed at all.

 

Seems like a block with a traction bar built in to it would take care of that. Much like what people use on lifted trucks and much like what I posted. Then of course you would have to take into account side loads. A good spherical rod end might take care of that.


Question...How is this different than a spacer block. Seems like by installing longer spring hangers you would just be transferrring the extra leverage/torque from the springs to the frame. I've never liked the idea of longer spring hangers.

Just thinking out loud. I know not everyone likes the spring blocks, but I thought I would share my personal experience with them. Half the good ideas I've had have come from bouncing ideas off other people.


EDIT: To the OP. Maybe your solution is something as simple as adding roller wheels to the rear of the unit. That would allow everything to remain the same.

 

I looked at one toy hauler that had a rectangular 2x4 sub-frame built and welded to the frame of the toy hauler, and the spring hangers welded to the sub-frame. It was a good alternative and gave the whole unit a 4" lift.
I have a lot of fabrication equipment, welders etc. I could do a job like this, but it is certainly not a simple task and would require a lot of space to lift/support the chassis of the trailer without distorting it, build the sub-frame carriage and then move it into position. Not light work at all..

The notion of traction bars is good, but also potentially problematic as they seem to compromise the work or the spring whenever the spring is in jounce. It would make for a very stiff riding trailer that may ultimately cause other stresses and possibly damage.

Another alternative here is to consider air-bags for the trailer itself.

Also as another poster here said - lowering the front a bit at the pin box will raise the tail of the trailer. Of course, you have to watch your clearance between the bed rails and the trailer.

 

All good comments and that added load to the frame is a concern especially since it's a Lippert chassis and something they have had a problem with as far as tear out.

- longer shackles are never a good choice and not an option for me
- cross frame supports to reduce side loads are under consideration and using some Heim links for ease of movement plus adjustment. I do have a Mor-ryde CRE suspension so may be limited to their X-Factor mod without other major changes though
- taller tires will be installed in the spring. The trailer has 2 year old China Bombs on it now, rated at 3400+ pounds. I need a size or two bigger to maintain that or go to a 3042 'E' rated tire of the same size. The tires I'm looking at are about 1" diameter taller (.5 on the radius) so really not a lot of help
- adding a sub frame is probably more then what I need though I do have the shop equipment to make that mod.
- dropping the B&W hitch one hole set will be tried, hopefully done today (rained too much yesterday).
If I do go the blocks, it will be only 2". That along with tires, a cross link plus moving the hitch down may solve my problem. If not, back to the drawing board.
- skids/wheelies, I'll resist that mod as long as possible

Sometimes I wish for the old trailer back. If that one dragged the bumper, I would have been in a major world of hurt, i.e. - the axles would have been gone

 

The torque is still there, but it is being transfered to a solid anchoring point, i.e. The spring hangers, which are welded solid to the frame,rather than putting the torque into the spring itself, which is flexible. I dont know if this any clearer than mud or not. And I am not an engineer, so it may just be my imagination working overtime!!!!