Skids / Casters
They've been factory installed on a number of motorhomes and trailers.
My Toy Hauler has the skids from the factory (look like triangles) and judging from some of the wear marks on them, they may have saved some damage to the coachwork.

 

Randy, I'm well aware of those skids as at least two bumper pulls I had years back were equipped with those triangles. They do work, it's just that I would like to get the trailer a bit higher for that reason (mostly) as well as the fact that on a couple non level sites on a recent Canadian trip, I've had to 'suck up' the front landing gear to the stops to level fore and aft - and one I actually had to put my Lego's (2 sets of 10) under the wheels to get enough height to drop the nose to level (Woodhaven RV Park, outside of Halifax, NS)

 

Holy cats Dave... Sounds like you were parked between two huge hills!!!

Okay well, you still may want to consider adding some sort of anti-drag feature to your trailer.. If mine did not have the factory ones, I would have done them myself. Actually iron wheel 5" casters work best... Triangles only work for dragging straight ahead / back and they can introduce torsional twist into the rear frame rails if they have a lot of loading on them and the trailer is cornering..

 

That particular CG site was probably the worst one I've encountered in several years. Not only did I use all the Lego's, I also had to use that half a cut up tree I normally carry for blocks. I was just to dang tired to complain and move after a 350 mile driving day plus some of the other available sites were even worse. The MH a couple sites down from us was so far out of level I figured his reefer would quit

You hit it right about the triangles as far as what they do to a frame and one of the reasons I'm resisting that mod. I've seen casters added to the skids several times - looks like @#%^

 

Add the Correct Track 2 alignment system to your RV. Adds 2" of height and is made by and won't affect the warranty on a Lippert frame. I had it installed on my rig to get it leveled with the truck. Works great for leveling and if your axles are out of alignment, will fix that issue too.

 

Thanks Rodney. I looked at the Lippert video and it looks like that Correct Track ll fixes a couple of things. It reinforces the puny spring hangers as well as raising/aligning axles. Interesting is that it's really not originally a Lippert product but a Rieco-Titan as the principal person is Sonny Dismuke in both cases. The cost of this at kit is $240 (from AMAZON) might not be a lot more then a set of blocks along with a new set of longer U-bolts which are ~$10-$12 each from the local spring shop.

Thanks again !!!

 

Yes, most Lippert products started life as someone elses brain child. JT strong arms, elephant foot pads, and never fail bushings are other examples. Speaking of never fail bushings. While I was doing the correct track system, I upgraded to the never fail bushings. I also upgraded to the Dexter HD shackle kit with wet bolts. Added another 100 bucks or so to the job but gave me a far superior and stronger setup. Anyways, glad I could help!!

 

A question - why the Never-Fail bushings vs the supplied Dexter oilite brass bushings? I used the Dexter brass pieces when I did the wet bolt installation on my last 5er and they lasted well. A wet bolt mod is on my list of necessities and maybe the Dexter E-Z Flex kit to replace the Mor-ryde which I'm not impressed with yet

 

Dave, I bought my shackle kit without the brass bushings so they weren't supplied. The brass are better than what comes stock but the never fail are just one step better than that. I figured while I was doing it, why not get the best. Supposedly, you don't have to use wet bolts with the never fails but I go prefer redundancy when the price is so cheap.

 

OK - the belt AND suspenders way. I'm a proud advocate of that line of thinking though will most likely use the brass bushings when I do the mod and if supplied.