Happy Wednesday! <hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> 1977 F250 4x4 460 C6
Wish me luck finally figuring out my ignition issues. I have the Pertronix Flame Thrower HEI dist with a Flamethrower II Coil. I have a new wiring harness that is feeding the coil 12.5v. I still cannot get spark to the plugs.


I have both batteries grounded to the chassis (new 4g wire)


I have the engine grounded to the chassis (new 4g wire)


I have the engine grounded to the cab (new 4g wire)


I tried wiring the coil directly with 12v from the battery and a ground to the distributor case from the same battery. Still no spark.


The plugs are new. The wires are accel spiral core 8.5mm.


I bought a coil wire this morning as that seems to be the absolute last thing that it could be.
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Bill AKA Beedub

 

hey bud jus out of curiosity is it only no spark when the engine is cranking cause my 79 has no spark while cranking but spark when it stops and i found the magnet pick up coil napped in two

 

I didn't think the coil was supposed to get a full 12 volts - thought there was to be a ballast resistor there somewhere ...? If I remember correctly... I think it was like half that voltage or thereabouts?

 

I am under the impression that their HEI distributor has it's own coil built in. Are you saying that you are running an external coil also?

 

The HEI has a built in coil and takes a 12V wire to run it.

 

This is the Pertronix plug and play system. The only components are the coil and the distributor. There are only 3 wires that come into play in the system. 1. the 12v from the ignition 2. the positive wire from the coil to the dist 3. the negative from the coil to the dist


The distributor does NOT have a coil in it but it has the control module. The power must still be supplied by the coil.


Instead of having the duraspark telling the coil to fire, I have the distributor control module telling the coil to fire.


I am going to get the MSD system and take this Pertronix back for a refund. I should have gone MSD in the first place but it was a money thing.


Now I will get the 6AL box, the 351C-460 Distributor, and the matching coil.

 

MSD saves the day! Same exact wire as before, plugged into the new MSD box and distro= SUCCESS!
My 460 started and ran like it should have all along. I would be open to the idea that I bought ONE bad Pertronix Distro but Two in a row? Never will I buy anything other than MSD. Now I have to open the gap up for the multi spark!

 

Got the dash back in. Put a 3 3/4" Autometer tach above the headlight/ wiper switch. Stereo is installed. Now, I just need to dial it in. Have the idle set at 500 rpm and the idle advance is at 4* BTDC. That MSD system doesn't mess around. That thing is HOT! I will index the plugs, and open the gap to .060 see if that doesn't burn the fuel.


Pretty sure that Edelbrock 750 is no where near adjusted correctly. That is the update, I'll take some pictures tonight. It spits and sputters under a load.


Anyone remember what I should be idling a 460 at? 800 seems normal but it sure sounds high when I put it there. I have a feeling that 500 is a tad too low.

 

auto or 4spd ?

 

Automatic.

 

Idle is set with it in drive and should be 650 rpm ..

 

As usual... Much thanks.

 

Did you buy the carb new? Edelbrock 750 metering rods should be 7047 or 7147 with orange springs. Easy to check. Under the torx screw caps on the top of the carb. If the ros and springs have been changed your engine can be too rich or lean.

If bogging is occurring you can change the accelerator pump lever setting. Moving the rod towards the carb increases the amount of fuel pumped by the accelerator pump.

You may know this already but just throwing in the pot.....

 

Thanks for the input about the carb. I will check that tonight.


The good news... Put the light springs in the distributor and made mild carb adjustments and the 77 is spinning the tires again!


I can tell that my exhaust is holding me back but, that will have to wait as two bad brake cylinders takes priority.


Got a set of D0VE heads on hold with the guy I found in Eudora.


Two gremlins to chase in the new American Autowire harness: Gas sender not working and the wiper keeps blowing 15a fuses. Other than that, the truck is running great.


Thanks to everyone that has chimed in and has helped me through this process. There are a great group of people on this forum.

 

Go to the gas sender. Take the wire off. Look at the gauge. Now short the wire to ground. If the fuel needle moves.... Your sender is bad. If not, it is in the wiring or the cluster gauge. To check the wire, disconnect your battery. Test with an ohm meter between the sender wire and the gauge. If the resistance is 0 the wire is good. Connect the battery and check for voltage on the gauge. If there is voltage and the sender wire is good then the gauge is bad. If there is no power to the gauge... Thats another problem. Probably a bad connection. If the other gauges work, your gauge cluster regulator is good.