So I paid $100 this past weekend to have my front crank seal replaced on my 92 Ranger 4.0 with 105,000 miles. At first it appeared it had stopped leaking but driving over two days it looks like it's leaking again just as bad as before. We examined the balancer when we had it off and it didn't have any significant wear groves on the balancer or crank snout. I bought the two front crank seals listed for this engine for this year. The Timken 2012V which looked like it was going to be the best option but it actually turned out to be too small and was able to pushed in by hand. The other one, the one I used was the Victor Reinz 47518 which looks like a conventional oil seal similar to the one in my Charger and Plymouth, it's a metal seal with just a rubber lip. The one I pulled out was still the original Ford seal with a part number 86HM6700A1A an all rubber seal. I notice that if I bought the Fel-Pro timing cover gasket set that comes with a crank seal it offers one with or without sleeve n seal. How do I know if I need a sleeve n seal? Is that for a worn out crank or worn out balancer? The shop that did it told me to get another seal and they would redo the work, no charge. I really want to get a Ford seal, the number has since interchanged but they wouldn't give me the number like always. But the seal cost close to $40 versus the $5 for the one I put in or the $12 Timken one that didn't fit. I'm wondering if I pay that much for the seal will it likely seal where the other didn't or should I try another brand or do I need the sleeve and seal? I notice on Fordparts.com even Ford offers a sleeve n seal option. Even if I stop this seal leaking I have to do the valve covers too but the crank seal is shooting all the oil all over the place more than the valve cover leaking.

 

I am not sure about the 4.0, but on my 2.8 I had a new seal start leaking after taking all the precautions (grease on the seal and balancer, being certain seal is driven straight and to correct depth) I simply replaced the seal again and used fine emery cloth and scotch brite to take any irregularities off the balancer shoulder...........never leaked again.

 

So I got a another crank seal from Ford this time. The shop that did the first one said he would redo it at no charge. I wasn't paying attention when he removed the original seal so I couldn't tell how far it was in the timing cover. So maybe he didn't put the new in far enough so that's why it is leaking. How far does the seal need to be driven into the timing cover? Or should it be flush with the edge?

 

Maybe too late to do you any good, but the Ford shop manual doesn't specify a depth (assuming your '92 4.0 is the same as the '95). The manual just says to install using front cover aligner T74P-6019-A and crankshaft front seal installer T90T-6701-A. I'm guessing that the lack of specifics means that the tool sets the seal to the correct depth.

 

Well it's leaking again even with a Ford seal. I was hoping the better quality seal would make the difference versus the cheap $5 seal. I got home after it was done yesterday and washed underneath the engine really good and was out last night drove about 60 miles. Came home at night looked at the crank seal area and it was totally dry. Today I got up and drove around for another 40 miles back and forth and just checked it and it's leaking just like it's never been touched. I don't think it can be fixed. This mechanic that did isn't a Ford technician at a Ford dealership but he does general repair and does transmission rebuilds all day. So I don't think it's the seal or the procedure. Is there something else I need? Do I need the Fel-Pro timing cover gasket with the sleeve n seal option? Or do I need a harmonic balancer? Can't I just run a bead of black silicone around the bottom lip of the timing cover to see if it will seal? I'm just glad I didn't pay who knows how much for a Ford dealer to do it only to have it happen again.

 

The harmonic balancer has a plastic sleeve that sticks into the bore of the timing cover. The plastic flange covers the bore after the dampener is installed. If this item hits the seal during installation, the outer lip will be torn from the seal and it leaks about 1 quart in 600 miles.
The plastic part sticks into the cover bore less than 0.25". The seal is about 0.25" thick and the cover bore is about 0.7' deep.
Insert the seal so the face is 0.375" in the bore. This will give you at least 0.125" between the plastic and the seal. A 1 1/2" socket and the pulley bolt easily placed the seal at the proper depth.
Be sure to oil the seal and sealing surface prior to installation.

 

I see that this is an older post but this might help someone in the future. I've read through the replies and noticed no one mentioned to apply a light coat (about an 1/8 inch bead) of black silicone to the keyway in the balancer and the inner face of balancer. Do not put on crankshaft (it could be pushed into engine when installing balancer). If no silicone is used, oil will flow through the keyway and appear to be the seal leaking.