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My old (current) one: Plans for a new one using aluminum...you could tweak this design and make upper layers by using different connectors: ...inspired from this video: Video Link: http://youtu.be/GaYrMPE9Td0 Found the connectors in the US and a company to provide the aluminum 1" tubing.
Where u get those rollers. I am doing the same thing as u are with the 2 drawers and i think the rollers will be perfect for taking the weight off the draw tracks.
Anyone have knowledge on a circular saw blade I could use for good cuts on aluminum? I saw one at Lowes but I'm not sure if it was 'universal' or not (I have a Delta 10" miter saw).
Robert, I have had pretty good luck cutting aluminum tube and sheet on a table saw with a good carbide tipped blade, go with a higher tooth count for smoother cutting action. And watch out for flying chips, safety glasses for sure!
Like a dope I forgot to order TWO sets of drawer slides!
So while I wait for the 2nd set to arrive, I decided to go over the drawings again to check for possible issues. Incidentally, the slides appear to be SERIOUS slides...500lb load capacity (so should handle any bumps while I drive with ease) and they are quite heavy. Also, they don't disconnect and allow the drawer to come out of the slide, so if you use these for a project be prepared to have to do some work to get them mounted.
I'm not an engineer by trade, so I'm hoping to get some additional eyes on this so I'm not missing something important.
Here are my concerns that I need to 'engineer around':
1. The connectors
The connectors are plastic and not barbed, so there is a chance they could slide out from vibration, weight, etc.
I know I'll use some sort of fastener, just not sure what the final one will be. Thinking of using self-tapping sheet metal screws (hex + flat head) initially. That will allow me to fit it together and take it apart without having to drill out rivets, etc. Then, if over time they strip I can just use a rivet. Trying to stay away from a through-and-through bolt if possible, as some of the clearances are pretty tight (but I can go that route later if need be).
2. Weight
One drawer will be pretty heavy - holding bolt cutters, a demo tool, trailer chains, etc. The other drawer will have an inspection camera, tool set, occasionally my AR in it's case, etc. I want to add in supports to help compensate and distribute weight, but not make the fasteners strip the plastic connectors. Thinking of adding some "L" channel (aluminum) to help distribute the weight and not put too much stress on the plastic connectors (in Sacramento's 100+ summers, interior car temps soar and the plastic could either get brittle or soften).
The drawer slides will help a lot with keeping the drawer from flexing (steel U channel something like 39" long)...but I wouldn't want those cross members to flex the plastic connectors. If the center of the drawer flexes down from the weight, I think I can just run a thin 1" wide aluminum flat down the middle and put roller bearings on the base (See item 4) to provide support to the centerline of the drawer.
4. Floor
With the floor being carpeted and corrugated, the entire unit might want to bow if loaded unevenly.
I'm thinking of keeping the existing bottom sheet of ply from my current box in place (or buying a thinner one) to help distribute the weight and make sure everything stays straight. That will also make it easier to bolt to the floor (using the 3rd row seat mounts) using U bolts, and it will help the bottom of the drawers clear the plastic trim at the barn doors.
5. Drawer Latches
Really debating this one. Nothing aluminum will be theft-proof (at least not within the price range/weight range I want to keep within), but I do want to make it at least time consuming/noisy to break into (criminals are lazy).
I think I'll just line the drawers with lightweight ply (<1/4"?) covered in automotive carpet to keep the price/weight down (sheet metal is pricey here and I don't have a break to make long cuts).
What else might you guys think to look for if you were doing this project?
maybe use the hitch pin lock that can be "keyed" to work with your ignition key!
That would be a pretty big lock seeing how long the ignition key is. But it wouldn't be hard to add a flat bar at the bottom (maybe in line with the center of the drawer) and one up top.
Wouldn't leave much room under it to fit a lock in through the bottom of the pin though.
Anyone have knowledge on a circular saw blade I could use for good cuts on aluminum? I saw one at Lowes but I'm not sure if it was 'universal' or not (I have a Delta 10" miter saw).
The 10" blades at Lowes will fit your saw. Get an 80 tooth with a negative rake angle. Most "fine tooth miter saw" blades will have those specs. Just get the cheapest carbide tooth blade they have. I think it's Irwin at Lowes? Make sure you take the 1/8" blade kerf into account when laying out your cuts (ie can't make 2 24s from a 48). Make some sort of simple stop block for repetitive cuts. Easiest way is to screw a 2x
Anyone have knowledge on a circular saw blade I could use for good cuts on aluminum? I saw one at Lowes but I'm not sure if it was 'universal' or not (I have a Delta 10" miter saw).
The 10" blades at Lowes will fit your saw. Get an 80 tooth with a negative rake angle. Most "fine tooth miter saw" blades will have those specs. Just get the cheapest carbide tooth blade they have. I think it's Irwin at Lowes? Make sure you take the 1/8" blade kerf into account when laying out your cuts (ie can't make 2 24s from a 48). Make some sort of simple stop block for repetitive cuts. Easiest way is to screw a 2x4 to the saw and clamp a block of wood to it at the point you want to cut. Hold tight with gloves or clamp the aluminum in place. Cut all the way through slowly and let the blade stop before raising it back up.
WOOOHOO! 2nd set of slides are "out for delivery". I have a class to teach on Saturday, Sunday will be spent cleaning out the garage to get room to build this thing. Monday and Tuesday I will be working two funerals for two Sheriff's deputies killed last week...so real work may not start until the middle of next week.
Picked up the metal blade today...didn't get as much space cleared out of the garage yet...after the funerals tomorrow and Tuesday, work can begin in earnest.
10-19-2014, 08:08 AM
