What Brand Multimeter do you use?
#31
Thank you David. I mis-understood the symbols on the fluke meter. I think I will go with the 117 due to the cost and what I need. I can get my Sunpro one that I have for $60. But I figured for a few more bucks I may as well go with a fluke.
Will any of the amp clamps work with the fluke or do you need a fluke branded one?
Will any of the amp clamps work with the fluke or do you need a fluke branded one?
#33
Any of the clamp type amp probes should work as long as the meter leads are compatible. You must pay attention to the probes scale, i.e. one probe may read 1 millivolt for 1 milliamp and another probe might read 1 millivolt for 10 milliamps. Also note that in order to read DC current with an amp probe, a special type "hall effect" probe must be used. An AC current probe cannot measure DC current.
#35
That Sunpro is a "decent" meter and is adequate for many users, but it will not stand up to the same use and abuse over time like the fluke. You may be able to tell, I prefer to buy good tools ONCE. I use my meters extensively and I do not have time for my meter to not work. Of course, I have backups, but tool downtime costs aggravation and money. If you only use it occasionally and you do not abuse it, the Sunpro meter could be all that you need.
The reason that I mentioned the AC vs DC probe is that, if while doing your electrical work, you have been using an AC probe, that probe may not work for measuring DC current. Most of the currently available clamp on current probes are either AC only or (hall effect) AC and DC. Of course the AC and DC probes are a lot more expensive than AC only probes. Another point worth mentioning is that clamp on current probes aren't really very accurate at low (milliamp) scale readings. In the low current range, if you want high accuracy, you should put the meter in series with the load and read the current that way.
Sorry for the long winded responses, but I taught electronics for many years and have a habit of providing in depth answers.
The reason that I mentioned the AC vs DC probe is that, if while doing your electrical work, you have been using an AC probe, that probe may not work for measuring DC current. Most of the currently available clamp on current probes are either AC only or (hall effect) AC and DC. Of course the AC and DC probes are a lot more expensive than AC only probes. Another point worth mentioning is that clamp on current probes aren't really very accurate at low (milliamp) scale readings. In the low current range, if you want high accuracy, you should put the meter in series with the load and read the current that way.
Sorry for the long winded responses, but I taught electronics for many years and have a habit of providing in depth answers.
#36
#37
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i have a 50+ year old Simpson 260 that i use all the time.
i also have an old radio shack digital that has got to be 30+ years old.
all the cars and trucks and trucks have one of these harbor freight throw away meters in them: 7 Function Multimeter
if they get stolen i am only out $6
and they are just as accurate as the simpson.
i also have an old radio shack digital that has got to be 30+ years old.
all the cars and trucks and trucks have one of these harbor freight throw away meters in them: 7 Function Multimeter
if they get stolen i am only out $6
and they are just as accurate as the simpson.
#38
It depends on what you are doing. If you are checking the battery voltage or looking for a short, the HF meter or the Simpson 260 is fine. If you are testing for the 5 volt reference from the computer to a sensor, the HF meter is OK, if it is still working. The Simpson 260 is NOT OK. It is a low input impedance meter and , besides "loading" the circuit and giving an inaccurate reading, it may very well damage the computer and other electronics. You should NEVER use a meter with less than 10 megohm input impedance on solid state circuits! EE 101.
As far as protection, I have found that turning the meter around and putting the face into the yellow rubber cover does a nice job of protecting the meter. It fits nicely too.
Here are the specs on the 115:
Operating temperature -10°C to + 50°C
Storage temperature -40°C to + 60°C
It is not likely that the temperature in the truck will cause a problem.
As far as protection, I have found that turning the meter around and putting the face into the yellow rubber cover does a nice job of protecting the meter. It fits nicely too.
Here are the specs on the 115:
Operating temperature -10°C to + 50°C
Storage temperature -40°C to + 60°C
It is not likely that the temperature in the truck will cause a problem.
#39
#40
i have a 50+ year old Simpson 260 that i use all the time.
i also have an old radio shack digital that has got to be 30+ years old.
all the cars and trucks and trucks have one of these harbor freight throw away meters in them: 7 Function Multimeter
if they get stolen i am only out $6
and they are just as accurate as the simpson.
i also have an old radio shack digital that has got to be 30+ years old.
all the cars and trucks and trucks have one of these harbor freight throw away meters in them: 7 Function Multimeter
if they get stolen i am only out $6
and they are just as accurate as the simpson.
You paid too much TJC! I got my free with the coupon. My dad and I got 3 or 4 on a couple of trips to HFT store. AFAIC, they work for basic stuff like shorts and grounds plus volt checks. I keep one in the trailer due to its size. My dad does the same thing.
At work I have Fluke 12 meter which I found in pachysandras while I was on a job site for the local Telco a few years back. My telco meter which I still have is a glorified analog multimeter. However, it was specialized for an industry. For what I need it for, it works perfect. At home I have a Klein Tools Multi function model. I found it on Amazon for around $50. It will do pretty much any thing I need it too as well as thermo capability. If I were to use one professionally, Fluke all the way. At home, you see what I got.
#41
#42
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#43
I almost ordered the 115 a couple min ago. I am worried about the no mA testing. Now of course you tell me I don't need it but the fact that it doesn't read it bugs me. That's just the way I am. Tell me I am crazy and will never need it so I can order it.
You may have missed it in an earlier post, but the 115/117 DOES measure milliamps (but not microamps) on the amps scale. It will measure down to 1 milliamp (.001 amp).
My recommendation to you is to buy the 117 (for the electrician features) and be happy.
#45
Well, I am no meter snob either. I believe in using the correct tool for the job. I have a Fluke 87 that I used professionally for more than 30 years and it is still going strong.
Firefighter 1406 does residential electrical wiring and the Fluke 117 has some very useful features for that type of work that the Craftsman pro does not have.
If the Craftsman Pro works for you, then you have the right meter.
Firefighter 1406 does residential electrical wiring and the Fluke 117 has some very useful features for that type of work that the Craftsman pro does not have.
If the Craftsman Pro works for you, then you have the right meter.