Doing my maint. on the truck this weekend I noticed a bit of black sand in the degas. It's not suspended but was at the bottom on the front part of the bottle. The spot was about half the size of a dime. I suppose it's time for a flush and fill? Also I'll be going to the ELC from the Ford Gold--is a normal flush and fill ok or do I need to use a cleaner? Oil cooler is good and don't want to plug it up.

 

If the eot/ect spread is acceptable I would thoroughly flush with a garden hose. Once completed I would then flush with distilled water. This should be done, imo, with the t-stat removed. You may then put the elc of your choice in at the recommended concentration. Don't forget to re-install the t-stat. If ect's were below 190 min. then I'd also install a new Fomoc t-stat.

 

Thanks--I wasn't sure if changing coolant type if a clean was needed--so just a flush and fill will be good to go. Right now my Tstat is getting iffy so will be changing it out anyway. Reading all the other stuff in the tech folder--didn't really get the debate on tstat in or out--seems like a no brainer to me?

 

Thoroughly flush and fill. Ford Gold and most elc's are non-compatible with each other.

 

Yep got it--flush til clear is my plan.

 

Pretty much proved on the way home my tstat is bad. It was 65° out an ECT was 188 to 190. EOT steadied at 197. That was fully warmed up then 30 miles of driving.

2006 F350 4X4

 

Don't forget the block drains.


Those ECT/EOT numbers look good to me. That's about where mine is.

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Waiting on the drains--they were back ordered when I ordered them. Got the oil drain Friday and hope to see the block drains next week. Last spring during this type of weather it stayed above 188- - mosly in the 190 -192 range and since I'm doing the flush it's a good time to change it. Also during warmer weather 6-7 has been my spread which leads me to believe the tstat is giving out (and hopefully not the cooler starting to clog).

2006 F350 4X4

 

Good to hear, the drain valves make the job much easier.

My ECT was down to 175 cruising on the highway before I replaced my T-stat. Now it's up to 190-192 range like yours was. My truck loves to run in the 190 and up range, seems like it runs much better.

A few pics from my flush.

 

Cool. Mine really likes upper 190s or better yet 200. I can tell a difference for sure.
Question why exactly do you have it on jack stands? Is that for easier access to the drains?

2006 F350 4X4

 

Question on turning the heater on when flushing. My system is all buttons and for the heater I push the temp button to whatever temperature I want. Is all I have to do to get the circulation is turn the temp way up?

2006 F350 4X4

 

I back flushed the heater cores separately (we have 2 on the Excursions) then I bypased the heater core and flushed the motor.
(I'll see if I have anymore videos that might be helpful)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Em_qQ2YL5Ds?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Bypass heater core

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/j4ufd9sQE_k?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Correct, to gain access to the pass. side block drain. You also need to remove the inner fender well. Look closely at the pic and you can see the inner fender well is removed. Not saying this is the "right way" or the "best way" just the way I did it. I used all distilled water, no garden hose. I started it but did not move it. It would have been nice to dive it and get it warmed up good, then drain and repeat, but I could not get to the valve to open it with the inner fender well in.

I turned the heat on full bast (in the middle of summer kinda crazy) to help flush the heater core.


If I was to do it over I would not be afraid of the garden hose method. I would just be sure and flush good with distilled afterward. There's a good video of srmastertech revving the engine with garden hose in and the block drains open, it's the ultimate flush.

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Thank you both

2006 F350 4X4