I got a chance to work on truck today got the rear lift blocks out. I measured my front spring length and they are 52" long from center to center of bolt holes. And I put a straight line across the bolt holes and measured to the bottom on spring pack and came up with 8". And by looking at the arch and thickness of stock obs springs. I'm guessing I got a 6" lift spring on the front. I'm not gotta be able to move my rsk forward because the previous owner has cut and notched the frame for a bumper. So I'm stuck using some obs springs. It looks like from what I can tell super duty springs are 55 5/8" long and obs are 52 1/4". Sorry if I'm wearing you guys out with all this just trying to think it all out and get it right

 

That's how I do it!


Now that you have your rear blocks out, do you have an idea how much you want the front to come down?

If you have a 6" lift spring up front and you are trying to come down 6"...

A stock height front spring brings you down 6". (Playing Captain Obvious for a moment.)

But, the difference between your current 4" spring stack and a stock 1-1/2" spring stack means the front would come down an additional 2-1/2".

Sounds like you want something in between 6" and 8-1/2" lower?

I wish you were closer...I just pulled out a set of F350 stock springs that had a helper leaf under them, are almost 2" thick and sat about a 1/2" higher than stock.

 

I think it needs to come down atleast 4" maybe 6" I got get it parked on level ground but it's been sitting for a year and the battery's are toast hopefully tommorow I can get it moved to see what it needs. I wish I could get spring measuents on http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index....oducts_id=6361

Like it gives on these
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index....ducts_id=17143

 

I did some measuring and it looks like I might be able to move the rsk forward and use superduty springs if I weld the rsk front bracket in place. Any idea how much it would matter if I could only get 55" from center or spring mounts instead of the 55 5/8" which is what I can tell the superduty springs measure

 

Had a new idea what if I just remove 3 of the 6 leafs springs in the front to bring it down. It's also got a 1" block in the front is this common?

 

Removing leafs is fine, but it will no shorten the length of the springs.

Also, front blocks are illegal in most states and for GOOD reason

 

I was t sure if it was a block or a wedge looks kinda wedge shaped but hard to tell

 

Most agree that getting rid of the block is a good thing. An angled wedge is sort of a necessary evil block that most overlook, but if it is more than it needs to be for the taper, then it is a tapered lift block and needs to be removed.

The below pic is from the middle of the truck looking out, shows how the RSK nestles behind the stock bumper mount brackets.

Does the previous owner's "notched the frame for a bumper" mod come back that far?

Another way of asking, from the hole the front stock spring pivot bolts to, how much unmolested frame to you have forward of that?

 

The notched frame mod comes back to the bumper mount on the bottom and extended out about 3" on the top. I have about 1.5" to 2" from where my rsk bracket is now to the bumper mount. I talked to sky manufacturing today and they said I'd have to move the rsk bracket forward 4" which I can't do unless I cut and weld new bumper brackets they also said its best to mod the rear spring mount for geometry to use super duty springs. Anyone one got a pic of what a angle wedge looks like if it's just a block on the front of mine it's looking tempting to ditch the block take out 3 of the 6 springs which should bring it down over 3". Instead of spending $500 on different obs lift springs or welding and modding to make super duty x codes work

 

You can't do that. The springs are MADE to have the military wrap go forward.

It sound like you are STUCK using OBS springs

 

So it worked out I took 3 of the 6 leafs off the front of the truck and it pretty much sits how I wanted. The block In the front ended up being a wedge I think it's 1" thick on one end and 15/16" thick on the other. Kinda curious if I really need it don't wanna put it back In and lift it another inch

 

I'm poor at math but think that is a one degree taper.

If that is for pinion angle you may get a driveline vibration but there are thinner shims than 1".

If that is for caster you gan get that one degree back with different alignment sleeves at the top ball joints.

 

It would be for pinion angle and if I put them back in the pinion would point more towards the ground which I don't need I'm gonna drive it with them out and see what happens

 

Remember, generally D60s don't really like any more than 5 degrees of positive caster and fwiw a 1/4" of toe helps a lot if your prone to DW...
FWI, there was some talk of blocks and whatnots. For you future endeavors if you ever need a legal block I've run these with great success...
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero%20Rates.htm