Are you sure it's missing Greg? Without it the 7a504 bullet end of the 7521 rod would fall out of the 7515 fork.

 

BTW, I've never done it myself but as far as I've heard you can remove the shift lever/trans tower assembly while it's still in the truck. 1st put the tranny in neutral. R&R it then. As far as fluid goes some had 50WT and most that I've seen had 90WT. Now sold as 80W/90.

 

C7TZ-7523-H .. Clutch Release Retracting Spring / 14.00" free length - 35 coils / Obsolete

1967/72 F100/250 2WD & F350 300/302/352/360/390 (240 I-6 is different).

MILLER OBSOLETE PARTS in Binghamton NY has 5 = 607-722-5371.

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has 10 = 888-727-0418.

PERRY FORD in National City CA has 11 = 619-474-6451.

CARPENTER NOS OBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 560 = 800-476-9653.

 

Also one thing many guys over look is resurfacing the flywheel for a good clutch job.
But the bad is if the flywheel bolts are starting to be rubbed on the heads of the bolts
Here is the bad part!
The flywheel will need to be replaced since the clutch hub has started rubbing the mounting bolts heads.

If you get the flywheel shaved and the clutch hub/spring has now starting to rub/hit the bolt heads you won't get full use from your new clutch disc.
As time goes by the clutch hub will hit the bolt heads and have trouble with the pressure plate clamping to the flywheel and clutch will slip. And you'll still have a hard pedal.. It maybe these is happening now.
Maybe Time for a new flywheel.
orich

 

Thanks for bringing that up Orich.

I was waiting to see the state of the flywheel before I decided about replacing or resurfacing.

 

Jeff, yes I am sure there is no spring currently present. The Bullet end of the push rod is stuck on the rod. I have not cleaned it yet to see if they may have welded it on. I have seen worse things done. The rod is bent, and looks longer than the ones I have seen for these trucks. This makes me think it may a rig job. I still need the spring either way.

Well, the transmission is out. I found out the aggravating way that you have to separate it from the bell housing before it will come out from behind. The cross member at the radius arm mounts doesn't allow enough room. Oh well, at least it is out. Going out today to get some cleaner and a couple other little things so I can clean it up before putting it back in. Still waiting on the clutch I ordered to arrive so I might as well.

 

I did some more scraping on the trans and found a shop or yard stamp labeling it from '76 F250 trans. I also have the bell housing cast # and a pick of the rod from the z-bar so someone might have some info on why it is bent.

 

The more material is shaved off the flywheel the longer that bent rod has to be. I am assuming your PO changed the clutch and had the flywheel "resurfaced". Put it back together and ran out of adjustment on that rod. Needed a longer one. Found one TOO long in a JW and bent to fit. Once you do the same thing you'll prolly need to straighten it out a bit. If you want a new one let me know how long you want it to be. I can't go by your application as that part would now be too short. You'll need one 4 and a fraction inches long prolly.

 

I am thinking maybe from a bronco or van. Does the # on the bell housing match up to the stamped model of the transmission being 76 F250? My parts catalog only covers 64-72 and repair manual is only for 1970. This leaves me relying on the generosity of others for info.

 

C5TZ6392A r/b C5TZ6392B.
C5TZ6392B r/b D1TZ6392C.
D1TZ6392C r/b D1TZ6392D.
D1TZ6392D is all that's shown in my 64/72 slide for 65/72 240/300.
D1TZ6392D is also only shown in my 73/79 slide for 73/79 240/300.
Both 3 speeds and 4 speeds.
Since your bell housing has a C5TE stamping number it has to be original to the truck rather than to the 1976 engine. The 76 engine would have had a bell housing stamped D1TA6394BA.

 

When I went from a 300 I6 I needed a longer clutch rod. Stopped at the Indio Ford dealer and told the parts count man what, I needed. My next day drove 50+ miles only to get home and find that it was way to long. Drove back the next week and found out the dick head order me one for a crew cab. So came back a week later and bingo it was the correct one. Three week of screwing around to get the correct one..

Then when changing over to the nv4500 5spd needed to cut about a 1/2"off too have some play in my pedal as it was with the long style pressure plate..

orich

 

I am wondering how switching from the lever type pressure plate to a diaphragm type will affect it.

 

My last clutch, I went with a stage ll diaphragm style pressure plate mixed kit setup.
A 11" chevy clutch plate & ford fe pressure plate with self centering throw out bearing.
As the RPM's increase so does the pressure on the plate. So you can have a beefy clutch pressure plate for a work dog or over stock but not real hard to push down.

Yrs ago when running 3,300 pressure plate in my street racing days in my 55 ford car vehicle built 390 with the 406 tri power 6pack with lots HP. I would break the clutch linkage and had to weld extra reinforcement braces to keep it from breaking.

I should have gone to a Hyd. clutch but hey welding it up was cheaper back in the early 60's when your a poor street racer..

So when I built the replacement engine for the truck, I wanted a HD clutch with out worrying about breaking clutch linkage and after doing the home work went with the stage ll diaphragm type. I'm happy with it it's working out ok for me.

But the owner at the radiator shop where I've had top tank resoldered.
He needed to move it out of the shop to the parking lot.
When I went to pick it up he said geez you got a pretty strong left leg with that HD clutch in their.
It maybe a little harder then stock but driving it once a week it like going to the GYM
for me as I have kept it manual steering also. So I save money just by driving it.

But did have to go with Power brakes to save my knee from needing a replacement joint...

You may want to go just with stage l= is about OEM..

I started thinking what a wus that shop owner was as he's about 40 yr old.
orich

 

A wus with Chicken Legs? Ha Ha ha.

 

Just a little update, I am waiting on the parts I ordered from DC to arrive. I got the spring, rod and zbar bushings, and the floor boot on the way.